Guys, your Starquest weighed 3,107 pounds! Your car is a PIG! You CAN remove several hundred POUNDS from your PIG!
Indications that a MC REAR SEAL is dripping onto the STEERING
COUPLER/DAMPENER (under the rubber boot) will DESTROY the dampener
if this is NOT CORRECTED in due time! = SLOPPY STEERING!
There are a couple of differant ways to re-route the steel line or simply replace the entire line with a new steel line or Oscar’s steel braided hose.
I’ll show you how to cut the exsisiting line, re-flare it and route it back to the proportioning valve first. I’ll do first in a vise so I can take better pictures. But if you practice on the used lines that you will remove……..you can flare like a pro in no time.
You can also buy a 30″ section of METRIC, steel brake hose and bend one from scratch….no flaring required! Napa, Pecker-Boys, Auto Boners, etc!
TSBs are there to HELP……Starquest had a LEAKING LID! Replacement P/Ns will rescue your ass.
If you still have a BLACK CAP…then you DID NOT UPGRADE YOUR CAP! The replacement one is WHITE! But replace the bladder too!
The ABS modulator is the large round container on the passenger side next to the firewall. It has an IN LINE and a OUT LINE. (steel) So you could say the modulator is just in a loop. All you need to do is remove it from the loop.
Place a clamp on the rear rubber hose above the the master cylinder to stop the fluid from dripping out. The OUT LINE is attached to the valve/union you see in the lower part of the pic.
Remove the entire steel line and the modulator. Next, take the IN LINE and gently reshape it and shorten it, then flare it (it’s a metric size). Cut it long enough to form an S like in the pic and attach it to the valve/union where you removed the other line from.
Remove clamp. Bleed the rear brakes FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER using the out steel line like a bleeder.
Practice flaring the steel line you removed before flaring the line that will remain in the car. Always make the steel line long enough to re-flare should you make a poor flare and it leaks. It’s very important that you make a PERFECT CHAMFER with a file at about 45 degrees around the tip of the steel line. This is where most guys screw up and have a leak. Follow the directions that come with the flaring kit to the letter.
The ABS modulator was fed VACUUM, same as the brake BOOSTER from this “T”. Just CAP IT!
Removing the parts from a PRE-ABS car…and transfer them to your late model. Note….there is NO “T” to require a cap. You have several different ways to RID your car of TOO MUCH FRICKING WEIGHT!
Guys…you be would listening to a DIPSTICK to NOT understand that A/C is a very EXPENSIVE OPTION… even on a Starquest! If you lived in Alaska…you would want a $1,200 optional A/C like a kick-n-da-nuts!
FSM Chapter 24 is about the heater, blower motor and A/C (if equipped with) and this DUCT is shown at least 3 times for non A/C equipped cars.
Also, 88 Starion FSM, Vol 2, page 8-119 shows this bracket for non A/C equiped Starions! Soooo, STFU already!
Removes the 20lbs A/C compressor bracket!
The OBSOLETE MB123891 non A/C duct, replaces the A/C evaporator & the entire housing. ( 8 lbs more removed)
From the rear
From below…use “speed-nuts” to attach relays & light controller.
Run a vacuum hose threw the firewall….CAKE! Cap the open hole.
Your Starquest weighed 3,107 fricking pounds!
Guys that are PUSSIES….that say: “Don’t remove your own A/C.” IGNORE THEM!
Btw…”The A/C weighs 50lbs.” BS! It weighs much more than that!
And… “You need to remove the dash to remove the EVAP.” MORE LIES!!
And…”It relocates the Alternator” Another LIE!
We’ll BREAK-DOWN removing the A/C….bolt-for-bolt, fitting-for-fitting soon enough! It’s not HARD at all!
Yes…you have the option to keep your 3rd fan to aid more cooling!
Step #1. Crack one of the freon lines and let it bleed any remaining freon if it still has any. Noooo, it’s not gonna freeze your hand! Geez, you ever have a snowball fight with bare hands? Besides…using WRENCHES of that SIZE, you’d be PLENTY FAR AWAY of SLOW FREON dumping!
At the bottom of this pic…is the entry/exit for the EVAP assembly.
See the large oval grommet? With a screwdriver, remove it.
WD-40 would help!
See the thick grommet around the Aluminum lines? It’s split on engine side.
Pry it toward the passenger fender (it will be stuck a lil’)…but NOTE THE VACUUM SUPPLY HOSE…and separate it.
If you don’t remove those grommets…removing the EVAP housing would be a struggle. Some guys say “fuck-it”, and just hack-saw-off the Aluminum lines.
Now…see that STUD & NUT to the right? Remove the nut! It supports
the EVAP housing (on the engine side)
There are TWO *BOLTS* (12mm hex size) on the INTERIOR side to be removed too. A 1/4″ drive ratchet….with about 12″ of extension, a 12mm FLOPPY-SOCKET will make removing those 2 bolts much easier.
Yes, we’ll bring ya more pics of this. Really…it’s NOT HARD to remove the EVAP housing and your gonna SHAVE 8 more USELESS POUNDS!
Other known failures of the HVAC. This vacuum servo…the foot/face servo has a breached rubber accordion so it leaks vacuum and you may not be getting that door ALL the way open.
…….and the first pic……the silver arm?
That red screw backs out and stops the function of that shaft.
Two common A/C problems.
I parted out an 85….and it was apparent that a mech damaged the car (by partial dismantle of the dash) just TRYING to figure out what was wrong. A flashlight and a mirror……… LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP!
If the SPECIAL SCREW and the SPECIAL WASHER fell out……….
I hope it didn’t fall to the floor and get REMOVED………like what happened to the 85.
I took this pic while the heater box was still in the car. If I can take this pic…….it can’t be too hard to SEE the problem.
Just remove the LH carpet coverd trim right beside the stereo……2 or 3 screws. Clean the bellows…..slide it back……put some silicone on the breach……allow it to cure OVERNIGHT.
Testing vacuum control units? About 2 feet of 5/32 vacuum hose…….suck your way to VERIFYING any failures of vacuum control units….same trick we used on the Dist. vacuum advance!
Note the vacuum supply hose (next to the shinny bolt) & the grommet
from a parts car that WAS a supply hose for the W/W squirter hose.
Also note the revited HARD COVER on the firewall & the RUBBER PLUG to fill
the stud hole.
And……the add-on 3-way harness. Brown wire ass. is for the EGT lead,
larger harness for oil temp & oil pressure warning lamp, smaller “Y” is for
the HEAT SOURCE of a wideband O2. (positive from ignition switch “T” w/fuse)
This ABS modulator, 4 pin round, electrical connector can be used to build a adapter to test/adjust the ISC/MPS! You’ll want the male/female ends…..tape-off the rest of the harness and make it DISAPPEAR!
How TIDDY is this?
What the TOOL is used for;
These are the tools you would need: The adapter harness, A 6 volt battery, an AVOM & DVOM (not pictured)
Dead-weight removal! Under the sub-floor in the right, rear hatch.
I recommend you use VICE-GRIPS to remove those super-tight Phillip screws!
The ABS “G” sensor…..just in-front of the spare tire. Weighs a TON!
Not *ALL* vehicles had ABS! Yes, you can that out too! BOLT-IN PARTS!
A DIFFERENT CAR…..it is, when you dump-off DEAD WEIGHT!
Sold at most body shop supply stores…spot-weld removal drill bit.
Drill about 95% thru the first piece…..now drive-in a thin chisel….
When you remove the ABS & CC…..it pretty-much cleans-out this corner.
I know guys that remove the WIPER arms…..or the ENTIRE W/W linkage & motor too!
Remove the relay box so you don’t drill into it.
Install #8 machine screws from the engine side with a self-locking nut.
Now you have a STUD to mount the relay to it……and a nice look in the engine bay.
I used SELF DRILLING #8s just for photo sakes. You can do this WITHOUT REMOVING THE FENDER!
The color of the wires can tell what they are used for,
just incase they were moved to another position.
DO NOT REMOVE…the BLACK BOX! It is a RESISTOR,
that substitute the Alternator bulb! (cause you have a failed bulb )
Blue is: Voltage IN.
Yellow/White is: RESTRICTED, voltage back-to the Alternator, IC,
voltage regulator, “L” terminal, so the Alternator will go into