BE AWARE! Battery *POST* sizes are TWO different sizes on *ALL* batteries!
Using SHIMS is NOT RECOMMENDED!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED ABOUT INCREASING THE FUSE SIZE= Are you waiting to over-heat your harness…..start a ELECTRICAL FIRE?
Life begins here for your electrical system!
7 entries found for resistance.
Main Entry: resistance
1 a : an act or instance of resisting : OPPOSITION b : a means of resisting
2 : the power or capacity to resist : as a : the inherent ability of an organism to resist harmful influences (as disease, toxic agents, or infection) b : the capacity of a species or strain of microorganism to survive exposure to a toxic agent (as a drug) formerly effective against it
3 : an opposing or retarding force
4 a : the opposition offered by a body or substance to the passage through it of a steady electric current b : a source of resistance
5 : a psychological defense mechanism wherein a patient rejects, denies, or otherwise opposes the therapeutic efforts of a psychotherapist
6 often capitalized : an underground organization of a conquered or nearly conquered country engaging in sabotage and secret operations against occupation forces and collaborators
7: Believeing/using SQC BS/FAQs/GPs Forums.
READ ALL THESE FLYERS! UPGRADING YOUR ALTERNATOR TO A HIGHER AMP UNIT IS ONLY HELPFUL IF MORE ACC. ARE INSTALLED… AND ALL ACC. ARE USED AT THE SAME TIME.
NO ALTERNATORS WILL *DEEP CYCLE* CHARGE A BATTERY
Psst… No time to READ = NO TIME TO LEARN!
APPLIES TO ALL CARS, ESPECIALLY 20 YEAR OLD CARS!
The Everstart MAXX batteries sold at Walmart for $70 are pretty good deal. The MAXX-1N has 875 “cold cranking amps” and a 3 year free replacement. And…….it’s a “NO HASSLE” warranty.
However…….GEL MEANS NO MORE FUMES!!! $190?
Batteries are not built like they were 20 years ago. If you run a battery down and do not IMMEDIATELY recharge it……..it is permanently damaged. You USED to be able to run one down 30-40 times before damage would set in. Now……..4 or 5 times and it is damaged.
It packs one hell of a punch, won’t vent battery fumes at all,
but it is about $190. Twin terminals are no longer common as they were on other brands either.
The catalogs call for a GROUP 75 battery. A GROUP 24 is somewhat larger and will fit. (more amp power) But there is a lesson to be learned from the EURO guys about….VENTING YOUR BATTERY!
A SEALED battery that has a to VENT those nasty battery fumes are the TICKET! And….COST FRIENDLY!! $75?
Usually found in the “2 year free replacement” batteries. (psst…same battery as the 3 year free replacement but you just pay more for that additional year)
DEAD BATTERIES on 87? A factory defect on the 87 ETACS……replace with MB571381
The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) is located under the drivers seat.
CAUTION: If you JUMP STARTED your Starquest IN REVERSE POLARITY… You DAMAGED/DESTROYED your ETACS.
From the factory, the 3 leads were attached with a nut.
1. Main positive cable (which bolts to starter)
2. Twin white wires (which feed the bottom of your fuse link box)
3. Black fuse link ( which is the white CHARGING wire from the back of your Alt.) Known as B+.
4. Black wire in pic was added for an Acc. and should have a FUSE close to the battery.
Note the OEM, black fusible link is a STAND-ALONE wire…cause it needs to BREATH-OFF-THE-HEAT!
DO NOT ENCLOSE THAT FUSE WIRE!
STOP! “My voltage gauge DIPS-FAR, when I use my turn signals or A/C”!
STAY-WITH, the stud-type, positive battery terminals!
Third wire, (from the left) is the MAIN CHARGING FUSIBLE LINK! If it is OEM, or looks crusty, corroded, etc…REPLACE IT!
Corrosion and loose parts are a problem. Replacement battery connectors are sold by most auto parts stores for about $3. You need a 5/16″ stud on the terminal.
Sand all the eyelets to clean them. I used a SS self-locking nut and flat washer to retain the eyelets.
Feel the BLACK fuse link. If it feels CRUSTY, it has been over-heated. REPLACE with one from Mitsu.
NOTE: The BLACK “wire” on the left is the MAIN FUSIBLE LINK and only charges the battery
Check it’s condition if your car is not charging FIRST.
Very often they are damaged or blown INTERNALLY.
Battery acid INSIDE this link will create RESISTANCE to charging current.
Better to just replace it with a new one.
The BLACK JUNCTION BLOCK is MB711079. (no longer available new)
but build your own! Or call (505) 299-9012
This pic is from a car with a rear mounted battery, hence the non-feed junction block. (the 3/8″ stud attached to the apron) The positive cable from the battery goes to the starter (just like the factory) Then use your factory cable (from the starter) to the junction block. I shorten this one a few inches.
THE BLACK FUSIBLE LINK IS CHARGING THE BATTERY!!
IT IS 16 GAUGE FUSIBLE LINK. REGULAR WIRE IS A EMERGENCY USE ONLY!!
NEVER PERMANENTLY REPLACE A FUSE LINK WITH REGULAR WIRE
THE DOUBLE WHITE WIRES SUPPLY CURRANT TO TWO SUB-FUSIBLE LINK BOXS!
METRIC TO SAE CONVERSION Some TRANSLATION for ROOKIES to understand….. from 88 Vol. 1 page 12-“INTRODUCTION AND MASTER TROUBLESHOOTING”.
For example: Your charging wire is 8 gauge and a pretty short length.
You use a FUSIBLE LINK that is 4 sizes SMALLER= a 16 gauge fusible link. If you FEEL (thru your fingers) that a ANY fusible link is very hot…or has blown, some RESISTANCE is present and needs to be HUNT DOWN & REMOVED. (usually dirty connections)
CAUTION: The LONGER a wire is…the more RESISTANCE it has…even if NOTHING is at the end of that wire!
This is the OTHER END OF THE BLACK FUSIBLE LINK WIRE!!! It connects to the BATTERY BOLT (B+) on the back of the Alternator.
Kinda hard to tell if this eyelet can pass 75 amps. Carb cleaner will clean it up so you can SEE what you have.
GREASE…CORROSION…LOOSE FASTNERS, INCREASE RESISTANCE
It wasn’t JUST the Precis! Early Starquest had a JOKE for the RING TERMINAL…….TOO!
You can see this eyelet was arcing once it was cleaned up.
Make sure the solder joint is good. Resolder if necessary.
If you must replace the eyelet, use a really good one.
You can upgrade your charging harness.
Sand both sides of the eyelet and make sure you use the RIGHT NUT and that it is TIGHT.
Gold RELAY is for ALARM. BLACK BOX is a RESISTOR with a DIODE…for the Alternator!
How a 87-89 Alternator works:
1. You have a Alternator BULB, and the current passes-thru the bulb to REDUCE the voltage to the IC, voltage regulator is the “L” wire. (white & yellow stripe)
NOTATION! The back of the instrument-cluster…THE COLORS CHANGE!
2. You also have a RESISTOR, with a DIODE (allows one-way current) ALSO…in the “L” wire, that is seperate, from above. The BLACK BOX on your LH fender apron. (tips of my fingers)
Blue is: Acc. current IN…reduced voltage out is: White & yellow stripe to Alternator.
Make sure you clean these leads as well. Remember, HOW OLD IS YOUR CAR? They are sealed pretty well…….but they could be GREASY Just a few squirts of TERMINAL CLEANER might do the job.
NOTE the “S” & “L” terminals used on the 87-89 Alternators.
“S”= STATOR. “L” = LAMP
AND….UP SIZING THE ALT AMPS (GM FOR EXAMPLE) BECAUSE YOU HAVE A CHARGING PROBLEM IS FOOLISH UNLESS YOU TRIPLE CLEAN THOSE CONNECTORS, UP-GRADE THE CHARGING WIRE AND OHM TEST THE WIRES THEMSELVES TOO. CORROSION GETS INSIDE THE WIRE ITSELF. SAME THING THE “FLYERS” SAY ABOUT BATTERY CABLES!!
VERY, VERY RECOMMENDED UPGRADE ALTERNATOR GROUND!
Used on 83-86, 65 amp Alt.
NOTE: “R” = RESISTOR ( reduced volts sent to the IC voltage regulator)
“L” = LAMP (if you have a battery lamp in your dash)
You want all 3 of these leads clean as well. Sure it’s a PITA to reach these ON THE CAR, but you can do it.
The nut on the battery terminal secures the stud to the housing. Make sure this nut is TIGHT before you install the CHARGING WIRE…….and make that nut is tight as well. It NEEDS to have a LOCK-WASHER!
The 86 model used a DOUBLE B+ WIRE. It was NOT GOOD for the 87 to return to a SINGLE B+ WIRE. The UPGRADE is shown in the following pages.
A DIRTY CONNECTION= RESISTANCE=HEAT=FAILURES=You THINK you need a REBUILT ALTERNATOR!
Bosch PREMIUM rebuilt 75 amp Alt. Bout $170. 2 year warranty!
A GOOD ALTERNATOR GROUND……is a MUST-HAVE!
This pic is from a IMPORTED STARION (from Scotland) who has RAM-AIR to cool the Alt. You can build it yourself, if you like.
The STATIONARY BOLT passes thru the t-cover. This is the GROUND for your Alternator.
Ya see that ARCING MARKS about 7-10 o’clock?
You can see arcing has taken place at the mounting point. You want ALL the surfaces CLEAN and PAINT FREE. Nut, bolt, spacer, washers and timing cover.
SAME AS THE ALTERNATOR…….BAD GROUND ARCING MARKS!
You may remember seeing this arcing on the Alt. from the same topic on the latter years. It’s a nasty, greasy world down there. Clean up your act! No grease, no oil, and NO PAINT on the Alt. or timing cover. Your Alt. needs a GOOD GROUND POINT AND THIS IS IT.
SPECIAL NOTE: 87-89 Alts. DO NOT HAVE A EXTERIOR COOLING FAN! But…..The STATOR gets HOT AS HELL so it has TWO INTERIOR COOLING FANS!
This is a 87-75 amp Alternator that used a 5/16″-8mm BELT. That belt size was used 83 to 87.
In 88….ALL ALTERNATOR PULLEYS (3) WENT TO 3/8″-10mm.
With A/C (top bracket) No A/C (bottom bracket)
If you remove your A/C, you can get rid of alot of weight using this bracket. This bracket can be painted because the Alternators ground is the stationary bolt. MD0027751 about $5.
This is SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #2. The other one is behind the black panel.
Proper order of colors starting from the front RED. BROWN. RED. GREEN. Sorry about the focus……..but those colors are LISTED right on the box.
NOTE!! This is not all the fuse links! Your car has a TOTAL OF 8 FUSE LINKS!!
You got TWO sub-fusible, link boxes & 7 links = 14 male spades = 28 sides of male
TINASUARUS!!!! (forgot the technical name) OLD, tin-plated parts GROW-OUT, tiny fingers that restrict current transfer! NOPE! You can’t see-it with a necked-eye! Makes-for RESISTANCE = HEAT! SAND-IT-PROFUSELY!!!
DO NOT GREASE IT!
The other fuse link box. Note: all GREEN links. This is SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #1.
If you THINK…that applying dielectric grease would prolong the life of a fusible link, then you are listening-too, A LOSER!
This type of “heat shrink” is not “heat shrink” at all and the newer fusible links DO have real “heat shrinks”!
Don’t be fooled by not INSPECTING for CORROSION under the “TUBE” or “SOCKS”. JUST REPLACE THEM!!
Making your own 8mm- 5/16″ female spades, fusible links can spell DISASTER!
This 86 had a 2,500 watt amp in it……and he wanted another one.
Fuse links generally fail in two different fashions.
1. COMPLETE MELT DOWN. This would be like a DIRECT SHORT in which case the link completely melts and will pass NO CURRANT at all.
2. SLOW MELT DOWN. This is probably a more common failure. This is when the RESISTANCE becomes so HIGH (like a cooling fan that is old and drawing too many amps or a connector that has over heated) that will only PARTIALLY MELT the link.
The link can still pass a small amount of amps, but if the fan starts to engage, the link will become HOTTER and may PULL ITSELF APART inside the insulation and fail altogether……..OR still pass enough amps for a light load.
If you rub the link between your fingers and it feels TOASTY…….it has been partially melted and needs to be replaced. NEVER INCREASE THE SIZE OF A FUSE LINK! It’s function is to protect a particular SIZE OF WIRE…….you would only increase the link size if you INCREASED THE WIRE SIZE!
3. The MAIN FUSE LINK is a 16 gage fuse link.
If AFTER you have cleaned the connectors listed in this topic…and your fuse link is very hot or ‘blows’ from time to time, YOU MAY HAVE A PARTIAL SHORT INSIDE THE BATTERY! This can damage the ALTERNATOR!
4. UP-SIZING a fusible link? If you did not UP-SIZE the WIRING…
DO NOT DO THAT! You could have SLOW-MELT DOWN of DA BOX!
Good fuseable link boxes pulled from the boneyard
ALL of these connectors are prone to corrosion from being so close to the battery. A DIRTY/CORRODED connector is a source of HEAT…..which means the RESISTANCE goes way up………..which INCREASES THE AMP DRAW on the FUSE LINKS! So………why did your fuse link fail? You could be looking at the answer.
Do you see how WIDE those male terminals are? 9.5mm!! Those two wires splits-off too, 7 POWER FEEDS!! It feeds your entire RELAY BOX!
Here, at the A-33 or A34 connector 2 positive leads…..
…FEEDS 5 WIRES!!
A-81…single red wire connector ALTERNATOR “S” FEED …..HEADLIGHTS…..FOGLIGHTS RELAY!
In the past (85)…with REGULAR HEADLIGHTS, using a DEDICATED FIXED FUSE
wasn’t working out very well. The WIRING rated to take a 20 amp fuse, didn’t have a SLOW-BLOW METHOD. If you CONVERTED your 87-89 to this system…upgraded to “Halogens”… “Performance Halogens”…..”HID LOOK Halogens”, and this 20 amp FUSE BLOWS……. ……..and you’re AT SPEED…
CAUTION! The foglights are rated for 35 watts……if you INCREASE to 55 watt bulbs, YOU ARE OVER-LOADING the entire system.
The melted wire on the right was the “Sub Fuse Link B” which feds MANY electrical accessories. Most of the damage was inside the plastic connector which made it hard to spot.
Below: A pull-apart yard supplied this MESS! COULD YOU PLEASE TURN ON A GARDEN HOSE…AND WASH-AWAY THE ACID ONCE IN A WHILE?
Myself….I would cut-off the male side (part of the permanent harness side) and replace the sub-fuse link box too with brand new Mitsu’s links.
This would be the WORSE CASE SCENARIO….3 large wire to solder & heat shrink. DONE!
This is the A-33 or A-34….3 pin connector (just behind your battery) and this one was pretty nasty from BATTERY ACID just layin on it for YEARS! You can BET-UR-ass yours has some RESISTANCE…
cheating you of FULL POWER POSITIVE CURRANT!
Now, this A-33 (also called A-34 in different years) harness connector that has the toasted wire MAY have still been passing LIGHT AMP LOADS. But, if the amp load INCREASES…..it could break the connection altogether. THAT…..will really confuse you when you are trying to figure out a failure.
Since these parts are located in a HIGHLY CORROSIVE AREA (right next to your battery) you’ll want to check them out very closely. What you are seeing is what will cause the SLOW MELT DOWN OF A FUSE LINK!
This is a 85 Fusible Link Box #2.
UN-ANNOUNCED CHANGES IN THE WIRING DIAGRAMS…
These MOMOS that write that factory manuals….. DO YOU WORK ON THESE CARS!!??
Not long ago somebody said…”I don’t see how this relates to my problem”. My answer to that…YOU HAVE NO BUSINESS OWNING A CAR THIS OLD.
I’m not about to COUNT the male/female connections just behind your battery that ACID has taken it’s toll on.
You either clean them up and RESTORE your electrical system….or you don’t. (a meltdown is in your future) My electrical system works FLAWLESSLY and has NO RESISTANCE at ANY connector….cause I have SERVICED ALL OF THEM. (that means CLEANED THEM) I see NO REASON to post a pic of each and every one of them.
WHAT IS THE CONDITON…of the MALE-SIDE, A-33/A-34, COPPER WIRING? Crispy-Toasty? That is your MAIN harness!
Best to remove the battery…for CLOSE-UP, inspection! 87 section of main harness, junction.
“I’m gonna solder it! ” Go ahead…ROGUE!
Slightly larger gauge, 88/89? Napa has the removal tools! GREEN, on terminal… Not good, Maverick…NOT GOOD!
Harbor Freight, Marine, double-thick, self glueing. $8?
Use the barrel of a ring-eyelet, and a few basics. More than 1 wire? STAGGER, about 1″ away. (like above pic)
FILE…sharp edges! 10-12 barrel, fits 2, 12 gauge wires, snugly! Now, CRIMPED!
HEAT GUN… until, clear glue comes out. See what happens when you use a FLAME?
Multible wires? Next larger is 8 gauge.
Set-screw, unions? Ya smokin, crack? Too much, CC? Too busy to read the SOS? Then too busy to READ DA LABEL!
That eyelet is attached to the positive side of the battery…then feeds 4 fusible links.
The MALE SPADE is 8 mm or 5/16″. That makes building a replacement fusible link a problem cause finding a FEMALE SPADE 5/16″ is near impossible to find…especially one that was designed to CRIMP a 20-18-16 gauge fusible link wire to it.
In other words…building your own, fusible links, AIN’T, TOO, BRIGHT!
As you can see, that single eyelet splits off to feed the 4 fuse links. It’s simple, easy and cheap to replace. But if you think you can BUILD ONE that can pass the necessary amps without overheating…
10-12 gauge FEMALE SPADES are 10mm or 3/8″ wide and CRIMPING a 20 gauge fusible link (also not easy to find/buy) is purely a “NOT GOOD, MAVERICK” kinda deal!
“I’ll just solder them” Get a hair-cut, and get a REAL, job!
This is the MOST MIS-UNDERSTOOD…..PITA PROBLEM!
BLACKNESS… IS A SIGN OF HIGH RESISTANCE!
The repair: A REPLACEMENT GREEN fusible link is SUPERIOR to OEMs. SS connector female spades, heat shrinked…and…it is SHORTER to allow it to handle a few more amps!
This circuit sends REDUCED VOLTAGE to your Alternator to INCREASE AMP OUTPUT! This is WHY it has the HEADLIGHT CIRCUIT to signal….send out MORE AMPS!
This NEEDS to be your FIRST MOD! You install a 100amp Alt without this mod….you’ll MELT-DOWN YOUR FUSE BOX
STOP If this connector is FIGHTING YOU to release…this is a good sign that it has a MINI-WELD SPOT INSIDE EXAMINE IT CLOSELY when it does release
It is VERY COMMON for the spade connectors to become DIRTY, CORRODED which is WHY you need to remove them and CLEAN THEM to remove the RESISTANCE that corroded connector makes.
With a pair of needle-nose pliers, WIGGLE the link GENTLY and pull it out.
Remove the “SOCK” and inspect the CRIMPED AREA. If you SEE ANY FILMED BLACK AREA within the FEMALE SPADE…..that comes from HEAT GENERATED RESISTANCE CHEMICAL CLEANER WILL NOT REMOVE IT
Slighty CRIMP the female part closed with pliers to get a GOOD CONTACT.
A simple temp-test. Turn on your headlights and FEEL the temp it makes.
If it’s HOT….it could be the male/female connector is the culprit…
CAUSE YOU DIDN’T SAND-IT!!
Nice and COOL, NOW!
A GOOD METHOD of cleaning terminals is some 400 grit wet/dry
sandpaper…cut to 5/16″ wide…wrapped around a Diamond file…
…or any thing SKINNY! A Revlon, diamond nail file works OK to clean male spade connectors *IF* wrapped in 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper it works WAY BETTER!
The other fuse link box. Note: all GREEN links. This is SUB FUSIBLE LINK BOX #1.
And just so EVERYBODY knows…PROBING for a signal with the WRONG TEST LIGHT (the one on the right “CAUTION NOT FOR COMPUTERS”) can DAMAGE your ECU by *SHORTING* you create (it passes right threw the bulb…hello) is “Not good Maverick…….NOT GOOD!”
The one on the LEFT….BINGO, RINGO!
*YOU* supply both negative & positive via the alligators….that makes a red light turn-on to tell you…your powerd.
Now…there is ANOTHER red bulb that turns-on when you probe a HOT POSITIVE…and A GREEN BULB turns-on if you probe a GOOD NEGATIVE.
Brand-new fuse link with ZERO RESISTANCE!
My own, 87 fuse box looked ok, but I still replaced it with a BRAND-NEW ONE…
…and went rear battery mount, too !
Electronics parts cleaner can help clean areas you can’t reach very well. But it will not *CLEAN*, BLACK GHOST away to reduce the resistance. It’s more of a DEGREASER……so if you TOUCHED a electrical part with your fingers, you’ll leave behind RESISTANCE.
Terminals CAN BE REMOVED FOR CLEANING!
10-12 gauge FEMALE SPADES are 10mm or 3/8″ wide and CRIMPING a 20 gauge fusible link (also not easy to find/buy) is purely a “NOT GOOD, MAVERICK” kinda deal!
“I’ll just solder them”
Because it is a GREASY WORLD that this connector lives in…
These female connectors COULD BECOME GREASY on the inside. This connector is SEALED with silicone seals on both ends.
Using TERMINAL CLEANER will usually do the job. The FEMALE SPADE is a SPECIAL CONNECTOR to deal with that VIBRATION enviroment.
The WHITE/GREEN wire is the “S” TERMINAL. A SLIGHT VOLTAGE REDUCTION is the SIGNAL to your IC VOLTAGE REGULATOR to tell your Alternator to INCREASE THE AMP OUTPUT!
This REDUCTION happens because the “S” wire gets the REDUCED VOLTAGE from your HEADLIGHT CIRCUT…and a resistor-diode.
That is the SINGLE 12 gauge RED WIRE which is “PIGGY-BACKED” to become the WHITE/GREEN…and is FUSIBLE LINKED BY THE GREEN ONE!
“HOW DO I KNOW IF MY ALTERNATOR IS CHARGING?”
We are looking for several things. VOLTS & AMPS to begin with. With a DVOM take a VOLTAGE READING with the engine off. A charged battery should read around 12.2 volts. (this does not mean the battery is good, however)
Start the engine, the volts should increase to around 14.2 and your dash gauge should reflect this, but not always.
“Mine is over 15 volts & my fusible links are toasting!” Yeahhhhhh, no-shit!
The SUB LINK #2 BOX..GREEN (the rear one) needs to be in GOOD CONDITION & RESISTANCE FREE!
The Alt. belt needs to be tight!! The DEDICATED FUSES (in your dash) 13 & 14 need to be passing currant.
The amps test will follow.
“My battery is DEAD!”
STOP! Did you bother to READ the flyers or the TSB reports on page one?
The Starquest was RE-CALLED because Mitsu was NOT…deep, charging
1. Disconnect your battery.
2. Charge-it @ 2 amps for 16 hours, IMMEDIATELY!!
3. DVOM test the voltage. (record number)
4. Let it sit for several hours.
5. DVOM test, again. (is it HOLDING the 12.2 volts?)
Failure to charge-it, VERY SOON…DAMAGES the battery! = And/OR… the ALTERNATOR!
Don’t matter WHICH Alternator you have!
The SINGLE white charging wire (8.0mm-8 gauge) splices into TWO. But….the one that goes to the RING EYELET is sent to your BLACK “MAIN FUSIBLE LINK” (1.25mm-16 gauge) to SURFACE CHARGE the battery.
The other white wire…that goes to the LARGE CONNECTER FEEDS IGN/ACC and are PROTECTED by the SUB-FUSIBLE LINKS.
In other words….EXCESSIVE AMPS that are NOT USED by IGN/ACC are CHARGING THE BATTERY.
This is a factory splice. Note the 3 layers of heavy electrical tape. Inspect this splice for corrosion or a weak crimp then rewrap it with new electrical tape.
SUPER NOTE The PRIMARY CURRENT (amps) are carried by the SINGLE WIRE (ign/acc)….which then SPLICES-OFF (reduced amps) to CHARGE DA BATTERY
This MOD is gonna CIRCUMVENT the CHARGING of your BATTERY and ALLOW more AMPS flowing to your IGN/ACCs
The 89 charging harness was UP-SIZED… But it STILL, appears
to be running TOO-FREAKING-HOT!
Using the RIGHT TAPE to ENCLOSE a CONNECTOR ONLY…. RUBBER…Self amalgamating (non-sticky,sticks to itself) and it stands-up to higher temps. (lower right)
This is THE ‘tape’ to use for enclosing your harness. Very similar to what you removed……..NO STICKY so your harness BENDS EASILY! Home Depot……usually in the plumbing dept.
A “GOOD JOB” means having the right tools. Many “combination tools” have crappy “CRIMPS”. Like the ones that come on some wire strippers. They are just usually too thin or the WRONG SHAPE. Remember……you’ll be passing A LOT OF AMPS thru this connection.
Note the black, fusible link is a STAND-ALONE-FUSE-WIRE… Because it needs to BREATH-OFF, the generated HEAT!
DO NOT…ENCLOSE those wires! NONE OF THEM!
If it’s OEM, front battery…the BATTERY is just another HEAT, PRODUCER!
This is fusible link box #1. Note the opening in the inner fender. In 89s, it had a SCOOP, inside the fender to COOL, the fusible links!
It ALSO COOLED, fusible link box #2! DO NOT COVER THAT BOX! LET IT BREATH-OFF THE HEAT!
CAN YOU…use a D-50, box cover? Yes & NO!
Keep reading. You need to determine…the heat *YOUR* box is making!
Do you have a CS-130 Alternator? You’d BETTER, build a harness that can DEAL-WITH the INCREASED AMPS!
This is a BAD-ass RUBBER TAPE. Use it like heat-shrink in places you can’t slide on regular shrink. Sold at electrical supply stores. Not very cheap…….but nothing 3m makes is. This is SELF AMALGAMATING RUBBER(not vinyl)= stretch-it to make it stick to itself.
One wire turns into 4 under your relay box via a BRASS WRAP-AROUND CRUSH SLEEVE.
And…..moving MORE than 75 amps (from Alt. to batt.) a SMARTER IDEA…….route this HIGHER AMP CHARGING CABLE outside the factory charging harness or refer BACK to PQ’s way.
You can order one of these charging cables for $15. You can also order a HD fuse/fuse holder that DOUBLES as a NON-FEED JUNCTION BLOCK!!
Soooooooo, you gotta REAR MOUNT BATTERY? What’s right in front of the starter…….YOUR ALT! The SHORTEST DISTANCE= MORE PUNCH! Seems like…..a KIT WOULD BE IN ORDER!
A ALTERNATE, Alternator, charging harness for a CS-130 Alternator.
Have you replaced the ignition coil…but didn’t MARK EACH WIRE? This mistake has happened MANY TIMES!
Btw…..”CO” (in the title) means COIL WIRING. Hey, you can’t have a title name that long.
sulfuric acid (battery acid)
One entry found for sulfuric acid.
Main Entry: sulfuric acid
Variant(s): or sul?phu?ric acid /”s&l-‘fyur-ik-/
: a heavy corrosive oily dibasic strong acid H2SO4 that is colorless when pure and is a vigorous oxidizing and dehydrating agent
Indications that you have a REAL PROBLEM! If left UN-CHECKED…CORROSION get INSIDE the INSULATION!
What are you seeing? That DAMPNESS is battery acid. (sulfuric acid) and it indicates that the Alt. or the battery is the problem. If the Alt. is OVER-CHARGING the Batt…it will BOIL the acid.
OVERCHARGING can be a POOR ELECTRICAL GROUND…or MOST often is a PARTIAL SHORT inside one of 6 CELLS.
Wash down the entire area. If ONE DRY SPEC of that acid lands in your eyes…… you’ll heading for the hospital to get your eyes flushed out, which HURTS EVEN MORE! Wash down the battery too after you remove it.
EXPERIENCE speaks LOUDER than words! I made the mistake of using the Batt. cleaner tools DRY and a hunk of DRY ACID nailed one of my eyes! You don’t want to EXPERIENCE THAT KIND OF PAIN!
USE ONLY “DISTILLED WATER” (if you can add more water) to a LOW ACID CELL(s) but CONTROL the filling process and DO NOT OVER-FILL IT!! Now…….MONITOR the battery every few days. Did it RE-GENERATE the ACID? If “YES” was your answer…..and all electrical CLEANING PROCESS took place…….REPLACE THE BATTERY!
If the RATE OF CHARGE measure at the battery terminals are not GREATER than 14.6 volts…..the Alt. is most likely fine. Make SURE you CHECK the Alt. BELT TENSION FIRST!!!
Do I need to explain WHY my own Alts. needed replaced……or WHY the headlights would get BRIGHTER……than ‘DIM’ traveling at night on the INTERSTATE at 75mph?
This is the Alt, CHARGING HARNESS CONNECTOR!! I should have done PREEMPTIVE MAINTENANCE by “CLEANING-UP-MY-OWN-MESS”
The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) is below the drivers seat. It’s function: provides various timer and alarm facilities through centralized control by an electronic control unit. (ECU)
If your car was “JUMPED-STARTED” in REVERSE…. You just fried the ETAC! If your wipers do not operate as they should (run by themselves)……it’s fried. If you turned on your key……you wiped out the ABS computer, and damaged the circuit board behind your gauges.
Replacement of the 86/89 ETAC use p/n MB571381….this model will NOT DRAIN YOUR BATTERY so fast………like the 87 model did.
NOTE: these pages are from the 88 Vol. 2. However, the 89 Vol.2 does not have a chapter called “ETACS”. It does have a chapter called “Theft Alarm System”
YOU CAN NOT……duplicate a METRIC fusible link to SAE standards!…..cept the GREEN LINK relates to a 20 gauge fuseable link that is rated at 27 amps.
Besides…those MALE/FEMALE SPADE CONNECTORS ARE A METRIC SIZE TOO!
New fuseable links are still avalable
Fuse links generally fail in two different fashions.
1. COMPLETE MELT DOWN. This would be like a DIRECT SHORT in which case the link completely melts and will pass NO CURRENT at all.
2. SLOW MELT DOWN. This is probably a more common failure. This is when the RESISTANCE becomes so HIGH (like a cooling fan that is old and drawing too many amps or a connector that has over heated) that will only PARTIALLY MELT the link. The link can still pass a small amount of amps, but if the fan starts to engage, the link will become HOTTER and may PULL ITSELF APART inside the insulation and fail altogether……..OR still pass enough amps for a light load.
If you rub the link between your fingers and it feels TOASTY…….it has been partially melted and needs to be replaced.
NEVER INCREASE THE SIZE OF A FUSE LINK! It’s function is to protect a particular SIZE OF WIRE…….you would only increase the link size if you INCREASED THE WIRE SIZE
DANGER Upgrading your Alternator WITHOUT A FUSIBLE LINK…..or a DEDICATED FUSE SPELLS DISASTER SHORTS HAPPEN within a BATTERY or your ALTERNATOR
SAVE OUR STARQUEST A 4 GAUGE CHARGING WIRE/CABLE needs PROTECTION from a FUSEABLE LINK that is rated at 4 sizes SMALLER.
Hence: A 10 Gauge fusable link! This sucker can pass 150+ amps without even warming it up!
You know how I feel about VIEWING wires/cables/relays/hoses! The same as the newer cars…which are HIDDEN under a PRETTY PIECE OF PLASTIC around an engine.
Your POSITIVE CABLE has only ONE FUNCTION…engaging your starter!
Used in this fashion…NOW it has TWO FUNCTIONS, but only uses it (once at a time) to RECHARGE YOUR BATTERY!
This is a 85 engine with a 65 amp Alt. Now…you UPGRADE your stereo etc, but failed to UPGRADE your charging harness… Shittttttt, Mitsu UPGRADED this BS way of charging a battery in 86 with a TWO WIRE RINGLET. Then…..in 87, they went back to a SINGLE LARGER RINGLET!
Bottom line…..maybe you DID NOT NEED MORE AMPS FROM YOUR ALT…..THE HARNESS IS THE REAL HEADACHE!
Another PITA…. VIBRATION …make SURE the UNDER-NUT that SECURES YOUR STUD IS TIGHT BEFORE you attach your charging wire/cable VERY COMMON TO FIND IT LOOSE…EVEN ON A NEW ONE
A lil more info on fusible links…..and why to AVOID making your own. From a 83 OWNERS MANUAL. See dat BS way of the connection of the CHARGING WIRE?
From an 85 main fusible charging link….half-way installed? You replaced it? But…..it was TOO MUCH EFFORT to clean it well enough to slide it ALL THE WAY ON?
On the left side, ya see that NIPPLE (in-da-middle) is ETCHED? & the BLACKISH COLOR? How bout the RESIDUE of WHITE on the SOCK?
BATTERY ACID DAMAGE That ETCH? That is the ONLY CONTACT POINT to deal with that many amps….and it created a SPARK….everytime the headlights were turned on = RESISTANCE!
This GREEN headlight fusible link was STILL GOOD…..but it’s about HAD ENOUGH of LACKING PREEMPITIVE CLEANING
You know what “SPOT-WELDING” is…..right? Well….your fusible links are “HOT”…..24-7! A POOR CONNECTION CONSUMES MILLI-AMPS!
“Why does my new battery go dead in a couple of weeks?”
Cause you are limited to about 30 milliamps from your stereo memory, clock, security system. (ETACS)
Yes I turned on some ACC to generate that BIG SPARK for a PIC. I can only HOPE you are receiving the MESSAGE…..clean-up-your-act ON ALL COLORS OF FUSIBLE LINKS!
Now….can you SPOT THE UPGRADE? The OEM fusible link was BRASS…..with a TIN OVER-PLATE. That TIN has a SHELF-LIFE
The REPLACEMENT HAS STAINLESS STEEL FEMALE SPADES……..AND…that is a DAMN GOOD GRADE OF HEAT-SHRINK vs the STUPID “SOCK” A WAY BETTER CONNECTION that is PROTECTED by HEAT-SHRINK
But……let me add this here & now…….You guys love BIG STEREO AMPS (so do I) and JACKING AROUND with “TRICK” LIGHTS
“I NEED a BIGGER ALTERNATOR for my “mods”.
I tend to DOUBT THAT. If you PUSH……too many amps thru a HARNESS…making your OWN FUSIBLE LINKS…SUB-SURFACE mount (lacks air-cooled) a big-ass-stereo amp(s)….use MORE WATTS for your lights……
YOU PROBABLY THINK IT WAS AN ASSET
This relay box is from an 85. That GREEN LINK was replaced many years ago…but they did the USUAL. You….DID NOT CLEAN THE MALE SPADE and now it’s stuck on there pretty good.
If you cut-off a slice of 400 wet/dry that is 5/16″ wide……fold it over to 4-fold thick…..apply force with a skinny screwdriver etc, NETS A PERFECT INTERIOR CLEANING TOOL for FEMALE SPADE CONNECTORS. And…..use that method on the MALES TOO!
Time to show you a……DOUBLE PUNCH..from PURPLE RAIN
A fusible link that is WARM (or even hot ) has too much resistance in that circuit if current is passing threw that circuit.
If you have done preemptive cleaning or replacing of ALTERNATOR RING EYELETS, WASHERS & NUTS (as the Mitsu TSB suggested on the Precis) and you have REPLACED the fusible link with a UP-GRADED fusible link (usually green) but you STILL FEEL HEAT…especially if you UP-GRADED your headlights to HID XENONs, there is a simple solution to CHILL-OUT THAT HEAT!
WARNING By UPGRADING your alternator to 100+ amps without doing this preemptive maintenance & a simple mod…the increased amps will slowly melt-down your electrical system
Yep…this is a CHARGING WIRE that SPORTS a “SPLICE”……a “PIGGY-BACK”, if you will. OEM…..BABY! By using this method on your headlight circuit, you’ll chill-out the LOAD SIDE that transferred the HEAT to your fusible link.
Let me explain this….the wire on the left is like a INTERSTATE OF AMPS that feeds ign/acc. The wire on the right is a OFF-RAMP to TRICKLE CHARGE your battery.
Hence: You UPGRADE your charging harness (as shown earlier) to OPEN ANOTHER LANE to TURBOCHARGE the TRICKLE CHARGE.
The JUMPER-WIRE allows you to engage/light your headlights to FEEL the TEMPERATURE of the green fusible link without turning on anything. This also eliminates a DAMAGED/BAD HL RELAY as being the source of resistance. Two inner terminals.
The RED/BLUE wire (small arrow) is OUT-BOUND to your headlight beams….LARGE arrow…(turns to GREEN)
You gotta SHARE da POWER!……not much is required, however.
The other RED/BLUE splice….goes over to the FUSE….
…and the OUT GOING SIDE is YELLOW/RED that ONLY FEEDS THE BLUE “HIGH BEAM” INDICATOR in your dash…..but travels from that BULB……..to your HIGH BEAM COLUMN SWITCH. More on that later.
How do *I* figure out there is a problem? Cause I READ your problems/worries over & over.
“My voltage indicator swings wildley when I use my turn signals” NOT NORMAL Might be your FIRST INDICATOR that your Alternator can NOT ALTER! A lil bit of swing….normal.
Your HL circuit CONTROLS the ALTERNATOR……ALTERNATION!
A alternator (while charging) alternates a lower amp output to a higher amp output…..continually. I’ll show you a simple TEST TOOL so you can watch this happen.
BE GENTILE! BE SURGICAL! DO NOT CUT THE COPPER!
DO NOT CUT OPEN THAT HARNESS! Just wanted to SHOW YOU how it works.
ONE GREEN…….splices to 3 GREEN, in about a foot of 14 gauge wire!
Why 3? Two HLs….one to the FOG LIGHT RELAY…..YA…..RELAY! Why so large to feed a low amp relay draw? Cause THAT HARNESS is in the OVEN……..HEAT SOAK….baby!
The SMART MOVE…if you DOUBLE PUNCH the GREEN 14 gauge wires…..as it travels thru the OVEN….it CHILLS-da-SELF GENERATED HEAT = LOWERS RESISTANCE!
DO NOT CRUSH IT…..JUST CAREFULLY CLOSE IT. Yep…that’s Korean MARINE GRADE with FINER tin plated copper & THICKER INSULATION. Regular 14 gauge copper wire is fine, however.
Now…two of those green wires build HEAT all by themselves if you have on your HL low beams. Because it is ROUTED THRU PURE HELL…… ….you use your A/C (condenser is hot as hell) You run TO MUCH ENGINE HEAT (radiator is hot as hell)…….. That harness WILL NEVER SEE AIR FLOW…… Anddd…. Did you “UPGRADE” your HEADLIGHT BULBS over the RATED 55W?
Now…..Doctor, MANIPULATE me a “W” crimp!
Not BAD DOC! You got ALL STRANDS CONTAINED!
Btw….you’d better be AWARE that all PATENTS are not the same! The THICKER the GAUGE of the SHEET METAL that these are stamped from….the better!
That’s the left side…..do the same with the 81″ wire to the right side. DO NOT TAPE IT ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE HARNESS TO ENCLOSE THESE TWO WIRES! JUST LET EM’ BREATH as little as they can!
The last foot that is inside the accordion harness…..cool. Stick the new wire in that sleeve. Those are NOT in the “OVEN”.
You don’t wanna “pony-up” for the DAMN HIGH TEMP TAPE?
But…Pecker-Boys sell the RUBBER Dorman for about $6. Remove the textured liner…STRETCH IT about 30% as you wrap it…TWICE ONLY.
NEVER….wrap a HARNESS It’s .020″ thick…and won’t bend…..and you’ll TRAP HEAT inside the harness. Yes……the tape is TEMP RATED to deal with heat….that you CAN NOT RADIATE!
COOL! Just do not use BLACK LOW TEMP VINYL TAPE! Use WHITE! It won’t melt-down the adhesive nearly as easy as BLACK WILL!
Now…….you can use BRIGHTER HL BULBS and CHILL-OUT your HARNESS FROM HELL And EVEN your OEM 75 amp Alternator is gonna LOVE YOU!
PURPLE: standard grade of 14 gauge wire. RED: Marine grade of 14 gauge wire. Either works fine.
Yep…..HEAT SOAK will reach out and TOUCH/ATTACK….your HL RELAY or WHATEVER relay circuit is used! If this RELAY is in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT…DOUBLE TROUBLE
Many MARINE APPLICATIONS use TWO RELAYS to make DAMN SURE your engine fires up ON COMMAND
NOTE Plain ol’ wire IS a resistor. A wire that is HOT…is MORE of a resistor.
Now…think of MORE HOT WIRE as a RADIATOR. That’s right……THINK! What the hell else is inside that CROSS-OVER HARNESS?……..ALL YOUR ECU SIGNALS You wanna TOAST those signal wires MORE by UPGRADING your HEADLIGHTS
Now…..how does this AFFECT your ALTERNATOR?
Follow the ARROWS to understand WHY……and EXTENDED LENGTH OF WIRE = RESISTANCE…..which is GOOD when it comes to the “S” LEAD combined with VOLTAGE DROP when it ARRIVES at your ALTERNATOR!
You ain’t gonna get the ALTERNATION CURRENT from your ALTERNATOR with a “SHORT-CUT” “S” WIRE And….you WANT the AID from ROUTING thru you HEAD LIGHT CIRCUIT = Mr. CLEAN GREEN FUSIBLE LINK!
Now….a SHITTY, DIRTY GREEN FUSIBLE LINK & CONNECTORS IS THE LAST THING YOU WANT! If you’ll “DOUBLE PUNCH”……NOW……you can up-grade the GREEN to RED!
Quoted from your Vol. 1 FSM
“When Alternator is Generating Current: Once the engine starts, battery voltage is applied to alternator “S” terminal. The battery voltage imposed on this terminal is MONITORED by the IC voltage regulator, and according to the voltage detected, the IC voltage REGULATES the alternator field coil current, thus controlling current the alternator generates.”
YOUR MISSION: Give me BRIGHT LIGHTS without the HEAT SOAK MELT-DOWN and INDUCE MORE AMPS FROM MY ALTERNATOR
Meanwhile…….back in the jungle
STRAIGHTEN-OUT your act! Get AWAY from those TWO HUGE GROUNDS! One ground is LOW BEAM…the other is HIGH BEAM.
Using a LARGER HARNESS HOLDER……allows the wires to….SEPARATE a little. No big deal.
Ahhhh, LOOK! that solider has seen some battle. He ain’t DEAD…just wounded. MEDIC
Hmmmm, terrorist amongst us….who is my NEIGHBOR? MY BATTERY LIVES RIGHT NEXT TO THE LH HL CONNECTOR
Yep….I changed the red piggy-back to purple. It’s “fashion statement”….right, Pro-Motion?
“I would….Die 4 U” But I’m bullet proof!
Just clean up your terminals. Btw……those “WINGS” that stick out..are how you RELEASE those female spades. Yep…..your HLs will not appreciate having your HARNESS TO FALL OFF and neither will YOU. (remember, that harness is MOVING!)
Yes…..increasing RESISTANCE helps your Alternator push out more amps.
However, this needs to be CONTROLLED! More amps…..ain’t going NO PLACE when it runs into a WALL= SHITTY/DIRTY/CONTAMINATED TERMINALS THRU-OUT YOUR HARNESS
Now……what is this attached to? A FURNACE
HOW THIS WORKS KILLER! The GREEN is a 2.0mm x2 (14 gauge) but if you piggy-back with an additional 14 gauge…and MODIFY the CONNECTOR (as shown earlier) NOW….you can MODIFY WITH BRIGHTER HEADLIGHTS.
The TWO RED 1.25mm x2 (16 gauge) alternate the GROUND from low beam to high beam….controlled by your column switch, and the “Passing relay” (above your brake booster) & “Passing control relay” (left of your glove box)
Now…running this piggy-back wire OUTSIDE your MAIN HARNESS takes away HEAT SOAK from the GREEN WIRE, as little as it is cause the AMPS/HEAT is reduced by 50%. By UPGRADING to HID Halogens…..this upgrade SAVED YOUR ass, HARNESS, ALTERNATOR, FUSIBLE LINK BOX….!
Ohhhhh…almost forgot. 400 grit wet/dry both sides of this eyelet and REPLACE THE SCREW WITH A NEW ONE! This is GROUND #1…body ground which ORIGINATES from ground #2. Yep……the one that never gets cleaned!
Well….you guys are LIVING PROOF that replacing your clips and clean the injector terminals made your car RUN/BEHAVE MUCH BETTER….RIGHTTTTTT? True, that circuit is COLD unless the key is “ON”.
You guys have also complained about WHY your battery goes DEAD in SHORT ORDER……..when EVERYTHING was VERIFIED to be TURNED OFF….and the ETACS was replaced with a later model or disconnected…even the Alt. was unplugged.
I told you it would be a “SIMPLE TEST TOOL”. You’d better bet-ya-ass that a Sylvania HID LOOK sealed bulbs run 30*F MORE TEMPS….which is RADIATED HOW?…. …THRU YOUR WIRES & AIR MOVEMENT You’ve only got TWO FEED WIRES
A FOOLISH MOVE: Sitting PARKED (no air cooling for headlights) and CRANKING-UP your stereo….to SHOW-OFF your headlights & stereo. Many cars kill the HL circuit when you turn off the engine…..FOR A REASON! Starquest………DO NOT ALL HAVE THAT FEATURE! Tested against regular Sylvania Halogens vs Sylvania HID LOOK Halogens. Now…..WATCH the TEMPS ALTERNATE….as AMPS ALTERNATE via the ALTERNATOR INPUT/OUTPUT. AMAZING TO VERIFY & OBSERVE Standard Halogens maxed out at 150*F when amps alternate UP.
HID Halogens maxed out at 180*F when amps alternate UP. Now…..this application used a 65 amp Alt. An alternator will only produce more amps when they are CALLED FOR. Soooooo….you’ll watch as the temp RISES, cause now lower “S”voltages drop which signals the alternator to INCREASE AMPS. Once the temp goes UP……she’ll turn around and the temp will FALL cause the “S” voltage was RESTORED. This CYCLE happens about every MINUTE or so.
From da top…other than a rear mount battery, a double charging wire and standard halogen headlights, this car had NO ELECTRICAL MODS.
With another car running from behind, with a 55 amp Alt, jumper cables are providing the current to the rear mounted battery. YES….VOLTAGE will be reduced from TRAVELING THAT FAR! NO….AMPS will not be reduced from TRAVELING THAT FAR! (least not much)
Turn on your headlights and wait about 3 minutes.
Now……put your pinky in the loop to FEEL the temp. OUCH! I could only hold it long enough to take a pic
MESSAGE: You are NEAR the LIMIT of that fusible link…OR..there is RESISTANCE creating a situation that the ALT. DEMANDS MORE AMPS which run into the WALL of RESISTANCE.
With a cheap-o $14 amp gauge….I’m seeing about 20 amps being SUCKED thru this circuit. Amp gauge is attached from the MAIN FUSIBLE LINK to the battery cable…..that runs to the rear battery. Yep…..FULL-FLOW amp gauge.
This is a new addition to my professional tools! Handles up-to 80 DC amps!
I’m a little light on VOLTS (key needs to be on for the volt gauge to work) so…..some of those 20 amps are busy with other duties. And that’s OK for doing this TEMP TEST.
White electrical taping this KITCHEN temperture gauge across a headlight (remove the trim)…..and OBSERVE.
Wait until it you see the HIGHEST TEMP…..DO NOT REMOVE YOUR EYES! Your Alt will CYCLE UP & DOWN changing the temps. Because this tester measures in ONE TENTH OF A DEGREE….WATCH THAT NUMBER to SEE when it is about to COOL DOWN.
That means…..the Alt. has replaced the REDUCED VOLTAGE so it is NOW BACKING DOWN THE AMPS!
OK…remove the NEGATIVE CABLE and let’s UPGRADE the GREEN FUSIBLE LINK.
You know the deal…CLEAN-UP-YOUR-ACT…FIRST.
With a lil practice…removing the LOAD SIDE makes it SOOOOOO easy to make it SURGICALLY CLEAN ON BOTH SIDES! Keep in mind…..only ONE SIDE of the female has FULL CONTACT
From the factory……they were installed, BACK-TA-BACK…..which is WHY one side is BLACKER than the OTHER SIDE.
Yes…..installing a fusible link FRONT-TA-FRONT you COULD call that an ASSET. But…..again……CLEAN BOTH SIDES!
Hook-up da battery, turn on your headlights…….again.
Yeppppppppp…my BREATH is NOW warmer than the NEW GREEN FUIBLE LINK. BINGO…RINGO! And I remainded………BACK-TA-BACK!
In COOLING DOWN the “WALL” of RESISTANCE means: The Alt. can PUSH THRU the REQUIRED AMPS…meaning…DON’T COMMAND MORE AMPS THAT YOU DON’T NEED!
Ultimately, I just put-in a NEW, fusible link box, Cause I could afford too.
The CAP… came-on 88, D-50s. NEVER CAP-IT, if your links are running HOT!
Since I won’t drive my Conquest in FUGLY weather, I don’t need a windshield squirter, and I don’t wanna see the MESS-O-WIRES, either!
Hmmmmmm, dropped about 2 amps.
Ahhhh Haaaa! Dropped about 10 DEGREES MAXED OUT!
Again……this is a STANDARD HALOGEN. I’ll check out (test) the “PERFORMANCE HALOGENS” to see if the green fusible link stays cool too.
Am I DONE yet? Have fun……get busy…..blah blah blah.
Btw…..you can test amp draw one circut at a time. The 5/16″-8MM female spades…..have you EVER seen another size on a HEADLIGHT? Problem is…finding 5/16″ BARE TERMINAL female spades to build your own.
Optional Sylvania headlights.
1. Standard Halogens sealed beams (blue box)
2. Performance Halogens sealed beams (purple box)
3. High Performance Halogens “HID LOOK” sealed beam (white box)
4. H4 series (some are legal….some ain’t)
Note the words….”H4….OFF-ROAD USE” WTF? You a STREET RACER?
You want “HEATERS” ON YOUR ass?
read the….. FINE PRINT! from a 2001/2002 catalog.
Those bulbs don’t come with a relay. But we can show-you to add-on ANY system, that is built for DURABILITY!
The HD, 50 amp relay on the right is for DRIVING HLs. (or cooling fans)
1. Red wire is 24-7, battery voltage
2. White wire is toggle-switch positive
3. Black is 24-7 negative
4. Orange, load-side, 12 gauge, w/30 amp fuse, to bulbs
Sylvania made a housing/lens like this…..and JERKED them off the market. RECALLED all they had at Auto Zone and any supplier that sold them. I wonder why?
Up grading a Ford PU truck HL harness is necessary cause the HL SWITCH & harness never had a CLOSE MOUNTED RELAY (like a Starquest has) to deal with the EXTREME AMP LOAD.
If you PIGGY-BACK your Starquest as DESCRIBED EARLIER….you don’t need this “kit”. My suggestion: Stay with the OEM Starquest HL harness and piggy-back it.
I’m not a COP….but if I was, you nail me with your H4s….I’ll pull ya over SO FRICKING FAST…….! “50 state legal” my ass! And….I’d have your car TOWED! Even if you get out of the ticket(s)= $$$!
You BLIND PEOPLE using that BS SYSTEM!
What’s next? Well……maybe it’s time to show you that .020″ SELF AMALGAMATING electrical tape is a HUGE…..STUPID mistake to WRAP A ELECTRICAL HARNESS WITH!
Using it to wrap around a BARE CONNECTER is fine….but the NON STICKY SILICONE is PERFECTIONISM to ENCLOSE MOST HIGH AMP HARNESSES!
If a HIGH AMP WIRE is in the harness (H/Ls for example) IT NEEDS TO BREATH-OFF HEAT! DUH! Example harnesses will be displayed to demonstrate how OEM dealt with this problem when they INCREASED RESISTANCE!
NO! it is NOT! When used INCORRECTLY, it is the WORST!
And PLEASE…..SAVE YOUR BREATH! From a 1979 to a 1980 model Chrysler made some changes to DEAL with the increased AMP LOAD by larger wiring and the ABILITY TO ALLOW IT TO VENT OFF TRAPPED HEAT SOAK!
BREATHABLE vs NON-BREATHABLE HARNESS WRAP.
On the left 1980 used a 4 speed heater/ac quad resistor blower motor….obviously that blower motor uses a shit load of amps.
On the right a 1979 used a 3 speed heater/ac tri resistor blower motor…and that blower motor was AMP HUNGRY TOO
Where are we at? OK….seems to me that you want brighter lights, more stereo amps, BIG-ass COOLING FANS.. .. and you’ll want more ALTERNATOR. COOL!
And it occurs to ME…….that you don’t understand/read the WATTS that some ACC. NEED.
But…..you need to RE-READ ALL PAGES to COMPREHEND the RIGHT WAY to NET your desires. Yes…….I EDITED more info to further explain WHY some mods are not working out.
“I don’t SEE the problem” And……..NO…..you won’t “SEE” the amp flow problem, BUT SOMETIMES IT’S THERE!
Are there DIFFERENT CONNECTORS for the CS-130s? Yepppp!
OK…let’s get into DOs & DON’Ts by using a CS-130. The 89s had a UP-SIZED, charging harness, that STILL-TOOK-A-BEATING with the 75 amp, Alternator!
Because REPORTED FAILURES of the HARMONIC DAMPNER by members, owners etc. with a STOCK ALTERNATOR…pitches-off the DRIVE-SIDE PULLEY for the alternator pulley, (no pics of that failure)..
Let me show you the difference so you won’t make a silly-assed mistake of NOT HAVING A TRUE ALIGNMENT OF THE CS-130 ALTERNATOR PULLEY “CLOSE”…….is NOT GOOD ENOUGH!
You have several ways to SUSPEND the CS-130. With the factory A/C bracket……could you MACHINE the REAR to GAIN the NECESSARY .205″ to align the Alt. pulley? Sure….but what a PITA.
Could you….cut away the BLACK AREA SLOT and replace it with the NON A/C
BRACKET?….YEP, but still another PITA. At LEAST…..I’ll STIR your imagination explaining your options.
83-85 Did not have a HARMONIC DAMPENER. Often referred to a HARMONIC BALANCER……it was a FIXED DRIVE PULLEY…with a BOLTED-ON A/C DRIVE PULLEY.
86-87 began use of the HARMONIC DAMPENER using the ALTERNATOR DRIVE-SIDE PULLEY. In 86 the Alt. was 65 amps. In 87 the Alt. was 75 amps. (earlier pics, page 1 will show the difference)
87 was the year that sold the most Starquest….and probably had the MOST FAILURES of the HARMONIC DAMPNER.
Now….you want to run a CS-130 105 amp Alternator and make the harmonic dampner WORK EVEN HARDER
83-87 used a 5/16″-8mm WIDE Alternator belt……..and the TOP of those 3 grooves…dampener, water pump & Alt…would be 10mm.
The P/S grooves (closest to the engine) & A/C grooves (farthest from the front of the engine) are 3/8″-10mm WIDE and will measure at 13mm.
NOTE…..how FAT the front side of the Alt. pulley is. The reason is: It is THOUGHT to deal with a BETTER DAMPNER BY IT’S WEIGHT! Just keep that IN-MIND as we proceed……cause it’s true.
The MORE WEIGHT of an object that sees VIBRATION…..the easier it is to DAMPEN THE VIBRATION.
Now…..in 88 models, things saw a change….again.
The INCREASED AMPS (75 amps in 87) was still used in the 88-89 models
but the Alt. BELT GROOVES (3) were upgraded from 5/16″ to 3/8″.
Same as the AFTERMARKET ALUMINUM.
Because of failures……and CHANGED-OUT PULLEYS……to the WRONG SIZE could create another……..PITA!
A 5/16″-8mm belt (83-87) in a 3/8″ pulley. (88-89) This is WHY it is SUB-SURFACED.
Yes……you would need a SHORTER 5/16″ BELT if used in a 3/8″ pulley.
Being ABLE to move the Alternator FORWARD using THIS GOLD BRACKET allows you to FABRICATE the LOWER BRACKET further FORWARD…..which means…YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SHIM THE PULLEY FORWARD. Just another option to take into consideration.
BE AWARE: The back-side of this bracket….
…will be one GREASY SOB! You best clean it up.
Running the GM, CS-130 Alternator. (105/110 amps)
The PULLEY ALIGNMENT IS NOT PROPER! We make a CUSTOM, SPECIAL PULLEY cause you can NOT shim-it-forward, enough! (not enough shaft threads )
This is a COMMON 3/8″-10mm V-belt pulley….
Shimming this pulley FORWARD…to line it up with the crank pulley?
Do you THINK that 2 threads holding down the nut…are enough?
If it ain’t…welded-together-steel, then it would be a POOR-ass BRACKET!
This FLAT AREA on the T-CHAIN COVER (marked by the arrow) will CONTROL how far the bracket can fall. Butted right up against it……and WELDED as such, LENDS STABILITY to the adapter bracket.
These measurements are BASED on the NON-MOVEABLE A/C bracket…..against the NON A/C bracket…….that COULD BE SHIMMED FORWARD….to ELIMINATE SHIMMING THE PULLEY.
The dimensions you see here for the SPACERS are WITHOUT SHIMMING the NON A/C bracket. In other words…..you put a thick washer behind the non-a/c bracket, you won’t need to shim the PULLEY…..AT ALL.
Yep…..that’s a FLIP-FLOP of the bushings LENGHT.
Well…most CS series Alts are FIXED…and BELT ADJUSTMENT is done elsewhere. Now……..we want the Alt. to ADJUST it’s own BELT TENSION. Can do. There is a MEAN……….to this MADNESS!
What *MY* eyes calculate…almost 45*
HAMMER TIME How could you adjust the V-belt? You make a HOLE…a SLOT, or you WASHER/BUSH the lower bolt AWAY from the block.
A 105 amp Alternator….under a LOAD… NEEDS STABILITY
Any “KIT” that I would supply….would have EVERY *SHOULDERED* BOLT…..of the PROPER DIAMETER, LENGTH & HARDNESS along with a SELF-LOCKING NUTS.
PROPERLY GROUNDING YOUR OEM ALTERNATOR!
Understanding p/ns: 15= 5/16″ width 390= 39.0″ Because different PULLEY WIDTHS & DIAMETERS….alters the REQUIRED LENGTH.
A 15395XX= 39.5″ A 17390XX= 3/8″ X 39.0″
NOTE……where the RED ADJUSTMENT BOLT is in the slot when the belt is tight.
ANY….MISALIGNMENT of the Alternator pulley…….running on a HARMONIC DAMPENER…….sooner or later….you just set-yourself-up for another FAILED DAMPENER.
Once a new belt BREAKS-IN…..STRETCHES, you’ll re-tighten the belt.
This is….. …..a little TOO CLOSE for COMFORT. My suggestion…..Use a 38.0″ or a 38.5″ belt to get out of the DANGER ZONE…or break out a file/grinder and TRIM THAT AREA…on the BRACKET.
HEAT……..is gonna make parts EXPAND! CYA!
Above: 83-87… A 5/16″ belt…on a 1/2″ Alt pulley allows HIGH RPM USE without the belt BAILING-OUT.
Below: 88-89 3/8″ pulleys A 3/8″ X 38.5″ belt could work…but 39.0″ won’t need the “HELPER” to install the belt.
G-FORCES……a belt that GROWS IN LENGTH cause the RPM of the Alternator PULLEY is EXTREME A POOR PULLEY ALIGNMENT= SEE YA…..won’t wanna be ya! That damages a GOOD BELT
How TIGHT…is tight enough?
If you can TWIST IT… to 90* MAX, you’re tight as you should go. Break-it in for about 15 minutes…re-tighten the belt…..you should be good-ta-go until you shell your next engine.
Do you NEED to remove the engine to do this mod?
NOPE! I’ve done this just leaning over the fender using a regular drill & a 3/8″ drill bit…and removed the radiator.
And I’ve used 90* motor, and a SHORT 3/8″ drill bit……so I didn’t need to remove the radiator.
This is the *KEY*…to have a GOOD BITE ON THE ADAPTER BRACKET.
Using a 8mm bolt …… PLEASE!
Even the RX-7 Alt. had a 10mm stationary bolt. Did a ROTARY have a VIBRATION PROBLEM? Noooooo! But it TURNED STUPID HIGH RPMs
The ACC. WIRE is broken-down to feed 7 or 8 SUB-FUSIBLE LINKS.
The FACTORY CHARGING SPLICE WIRE is PROTECTED by a “MAIN” 16 gauge fusible link.
CAUTION: FORCE-FEEDING EXCESSIVE AMPS to “SURFACE” RE-CHARGE a low battery….. WILL NEVER BE GOOD FOR ANY BATTERY. More info on page one, pic one, in the TSB.
Although a NEW 4 gauge CHARGING WIRE would be considered an OPTION
….just like the 105 amp CS-130 Alternator….the OPTIONAL 10 gauge fusible link is simply ANOTHER OPTION to PROTECT your Starquest.
With many years of experience, we have noted that not ALL vehicles come with a FUSE or FUSIBLE LINK at all. Some Chevy trucks for example.
Not using a FUSIBLE LINK…..or using one that is TOO LARGE for a GIVEN SIZE OF WIRE… that practice wiped out this ENTIRE HARNESS
Understanding The S.O.S. Manual…UPGRADES.
TSBs were issued to CORRECT a KNOWN MIS-PRINT, WRONG INFO, BETTER INFO….all kind of reasons. Even HAND WRITTEN (below) happen so fast…they won’t RE-TYPE an entire page.