2 gauge replacement ground cable. This ground cable was UP-SIZED in late 88 Starquest from a 4 gauge!
BEND THE FLAGG, as necessary to FIT FLUSH!
NOTE: Many electrical problems can be traced back to CORROSION interupting a STRONG, RELIABLE GROUND.
“It’s only a GROUND” What the heck is that suppose to mean? Almost EVERY ELECTRICAL DEVICE in this car is switched by a STRONG GROUND!
Neglecting to service ALL THE GROUNDS IN THE ENGINE BAY is a mistake.
All of the grounds locations are listed in the ELECTRICAL CHAPTER ( 8 ) Volume-2, Pages 8-10 & 11.
Dorman/Help stud kit p/n 23743
Would *I* use a 1/4″ star washer, behind the brass? Only if I…didn’t understand the WIDE AREA, of that brass! What is NOT, optional…A GREAT, ELECTRICAL, TRANSFER!
APPLIES TO ALL CARS ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY ARE 20 YEARS OLD!!!
Walmart sells this Everstart battery for about $70. p/n MAXX-1N.
875 cold cranking amps and dual leads that can come in handy. 3 year free replacement.
The “TWIN TERMINALS” are ideally suited for this car. Someguys suggest “HYPER-GROUND” kits? Please……..for a few bucks you can merely add an additional cable to the the BODY/APRON GROUND BOLT.
It packs one hell of a punch, won’t vent battery fumes at all,
but it is about $190. Twin terminals are no longer common as they were on other brands either.
The catalogs call for a GROUP 75 battery. A GROUP 24 is somewhat larger and will fit. (more amp power) But there is a lesson to be learned from the EURO guys about….VENTING YOUR BATTERY!
A SEALED battery that has a to VENT those nasty battery fumes are the TICKET! And….COST FRIENDLY!! $75?
Usually found in the “2 year free replacement” batteries. (psst…same battery as the 3 year free replacement but you just pay more for that additional year)
DO NOT BE MISLEAD! THIS IS YOUR MAIN BODY GROUND, the eyelet behind it is the ECU & ISC/MPS (intake manifold) GROUND! ALL HELL BREAKS LOOSE IF YOU DO NOT SERVICE GROUND #11.
Note the letter “E” on that bolt. It means it was platted special for electrical use. On your electrical fan shroud, two more “E” bolts (8mm) are for those two black ground wires at the top of your RADIATOR!!
Bottom line is….a RUSTY, CORRODED bolt can not transfer electrical very well.
Another ‘parts car’, white 85. GREEN COLOR ON COPPER MEANS:…… GRAVITY MEANS:……… TRASHED NEGATIVE CABLE! It travels down thru the INTERIOR of that cable.
You would BLAME a bad sensor…..or a harness connector (clips-pigtails)
ANYTHING….but just doing a simple CLEANING of those junctions.
If a battery cable looses .2 volts..over the length of the cable…it is OFFICIALLY TRASHED! REPLACE IT!
This red Starquest is a parts car. I’ll use it for pics. In 88, Mitsu INCREASED the size of the ground cable.
GROUND # 11. I see this all too often on Starquest. The negative cable end was cut off and a bolt-on end replaced it. However, to make the cable reach the battery….they unbolted the MOST IMPORTANT GROUND IN THE CAR and replaced it with the smaller red wire. One look at the bolt that retains it to the apron says it all. This is one poor ground.
GROUND #11…The BRASS eyelet has a 10 gauge wire that dead-ends to the intake manifold so the ISC/MPS has a good ground source.
The 14 gauge wire is……YOUR ECU (computer) GROUND!! ……..IT TRAVELS VERY FAR to the ECU! Better see to it being SPOTLESS!
SHORT-CUT………if you have twin terminals on your battery……use the SIDE TERMINAL with a short battery cable to the BODY GROUND.
You can call it, your own HYPER-GROUND KIT!
Upgraded Nov. 09: This is a 89 ground harness. It went to TWO brass eyelets,
(one snapped-off ) added another ground wire….and the larger, intake manifold gauge GREW TOO!
The mid-cable lug is SO IMPORTANT TO HAVE! This ground cable was UP-SIZED in late 88 Starquest from a 4 gauge!
Testing a battery cable: Unhook the cable from the body & the engine block….take a voltage test at your battery….now test the cable voltage at the end of that cable. If it LOST MORE THAN .2 VOLTS…..REPLACE THAT CABLE!
If a cable CAN NOT DELIVER 100% GROUND….. NOR CAN YOUR ECU SENSORS!
SUPER NOTE THIS: This is ground #11, MAIN BODY GROUND!
Behind it is another ring-eyelet & 88/89s had TWO ring-eyelets (pics soon)
that are known to fail! The LARGER wire grounds the intake manifold (ISC/MPS)…the SMALLER WIRE IS A DIRECT GROUND TO THE ECU!!
Ground #10. The SOURCE of the *SECONDARY* cooling fan RELAY.
NOTE: many of the ground wires are tied into each other within the harnesses, so if one ground fails….another will take it’s place. MAYBE! And the list of grounds is very long. I’ll be adding to it as time allows.
GROUND #10. You have a 4 wire connector above your secondary fan.(drivers side fan) The smaller black wire is the ground for the secondary THERMO SENSOR. This is the source for that ground.
It also grounds:
Radiator fan motor RELAY #2 (large round one)
Radiator fan A/C RELAY 1 (small square one)
Radiator fan A/C RELAY 2 (small square one)
Condenser fan motor RELAY (small square one)
A/C pressure switch (green cover on it)
Keep this in mind……you have TWO different means of turning on the fans. COOLING & A/C.
See page 24-68 & 69 of the FSM,
Ground #1. SOURCE of *PRIMARY*cooling fan RELAY.
GROUND #1. You have a 4 wire connector above your primary cooling fan. (passenger side) The smaller black wire is the ground for the primary THERMO SENSOR. This is the source for that ground. Clean the apron & the eyelet and make sure the copper wire is not CORRODED all-ta-hell where it enters the eyelet. NOTE a pic from above.
It also grounds:
Radiator fan motor RELAY #1 (large round relay)
Headlight pop-up motors
See pages 24-68 & 69 for cooling fans in 1988 Vol 1, for the cooling fan diagram.
This is GROUND #3….(the 8mm bolt) It is the INTAKE MANIFOLD GROUND so the ISC/MPS gets a solid ground. It began from GROUND #11(main body ground below the battery) and dead-ends to the manifold. (intake manifolds have gasket under it so it isn’t grounded very well)
Now..if the NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE is not passing high amp loads to the engine block, GROUND #3 is being OVER-HEATED when the STARTER is engaged!! NOT GOOD!
Once GROUND #3 is in trouble passing current….your THROTTLE CABLE BECOMES A GROUND!! YICKS! (known to WELD that cable)
The LATE model cars had a WHITE FEMALE connector IN THE HARNESS SIDE.
The EARLY model cars had a BLACK FEMALE connector IN THE HARNESS SIDE
That WHITE STUFF on the black connector suggest that CORROSION is present. White stuff or not, obviously RESISTANCE makes for a POOR GROUND!
GROUND #9 (Body Ground, also tied in with ground 11, apron bolt)
Electronic Spark Control Igniter:
ECI Control Unit: pin # 1 SHEILDED GROUND & # 53 DIRECT GROUND to the ECI
Ignition Coil Ground Side (-) SHEILDED GROUND
Dist. signal generator: SHIELDED GROUND
Detonation sensor: SHIELDED GROUND
NOTE: Dist. Signal Generator, ALSO….the POSITIVE WIRE (white) that sends the positive signal to the IGNITER is GROUND SHIELDED! GROUND SHIELDED MEANS: an additional wire is wrapped around the SIGNAL WIRE to GROUND OUT ANY INTERFERENCE! NOT THE SIGNAL WIRE ITSELF!!!
DO NOT PAINT THIS ALT. STATIONARY BOLT LOCATION!!!
If you see a little arcing at the Alt. stationary bolt (like this at about 7-10 o’clock)…..don’t be surprised. This Alt. can be a PITA to change out. Nobody wants to bend over and CLEAN THE MOUNTING SURFACES.
Here is a GREAT EXAMPLE of Cyberquests Honda. this is a faulty ground wire that caused MONTHS of troubleshooting. i found the bad ground but the wire had already caused its DAMAGE!
These parts have LIVED IN A HUMID AREA!…..just like a…….BOAT!
It took MONTHS to find this problem, the ALT was PULLED out and TESTED more then ONCE and it tested GOOD each time. i finally broke down and bought a NEW one, and then pulled the old one apart to FIND THIS! this is the HIDDEN DAMAGE your BAD GROUNDS are causing.
GROUND #8. This one is behind the instrument cluster.
This one grounds:
Combination meter (instruments)
Automatic A/C control unit.
Turn signal dash flashers
Dimmer control switch
Automatic seat belt control unit…which also “Ts” to ground the DRIVERS door, 3-way switch attached to the DOOR LATCH, inside the door. If that switch is worn-out…you loose your auto seat belt function!
Tapping into your O2 sensor SIGNAL wire with a wire that is NOT GROUND SHIELDED…..(for a A/F meter for example) IS FOOLISH!!
You can CREATE INCORRECT SIGNALS SENT TO THE ECI! I know what the instructions say…..it’s still FOOLISH! A low-dollar A/F meter will LIE TO YOU!!! Can you see the SHIELDING in this pic? NOPE!
It’s further down this wire. This is SO IMPORTANT…..this SIGNAL WIRE PATH IS SEPARATE FROM THAT BIG-ass HARNESS!
GROUND #4. O2 sensor SHIELD WIRE GROUND. And that’s ALL it grounds. I wouldn’t attach any other ground to this source. The last thing you want is to send STRANGE SIGNALS to the o2 ground shield. If you have a cheapo A/F gauge and it goes wacky all the time it would interference from other components in the car. that WACKY signal feeds right back to the ECU, not good.
GROUND #5. Behind your rear-most trim panel in the center of the car. This is where your FUEL PUMP get’s it’s GROUND.
Also not listed under “GROUNDS” ……..this radio noise capacitor is grounded under the RR speaker shelf.
Ground #6 high mounted stop light, rear wiper motor, rear
GROUND #6. Located behind the LR quarter panel trim BEHIND the rear strut tower.
GROUNDS & the POSITIVE SIDE are transferred to the rear hatch via the strut copper contacts. Famous for causing the 3rd brake light to fail, rear defrost and rear wiper. A rear hatch that needs adjusted FORWARD can also cause a poor connection here.
Each strut has 3 small copper “nipples” . Don’t forget to clean those too.
We’ll post ground #7 (located next to the ETAC under your carpet) soon.
Grounding your exhaust system with a SEPARATE GROUND eliminates a rusty/crusty ground for the O2 Also available in the “HELP” line…p/n 60213. 15″ length for $7.
Ground for AM radio noise (EGR valve was removed)
You have TWO topics to review…one DOES relate to another:
**Add Link for Rear Mount Battery**
Now….do you NEED a 1 GAUGE GROUND CABLE This is a FACTORY REAR-MOUNTED BATTERY That’s 8 GAUGE CABLE….. It only has……ONE TO-DA-BODY. If you *THINK* a Starquest has MORE AMP DESIRES than a M300….
YOU ARE BRAIN DEAD. SHORT-SWEET….and to-da-point!
Any place you see a *DOT* indicates that SHIELDED GROUND WIRE is “Td” into that harness. Those lil’ DASHES indicate that wire is SHIELDED GROUND.
CAUTION: A DOT in the DASH LINE indicates the shielded ground is sharded. But a DOT in the SIGNAL wire is sharded with another part.
And just so EVERYBODY knows…PROBING for a signal with the WRONG TEST LIGHT (the one on the right “CAUTION NOT FOR COMPUTERS”) can DAMAGE your ECU by *SHORTING* you create (it passes right threw the bulb…hello) is “Not good Maverick…….NOT GOOD!”
The one on the LEFT….BINGO, RINGO!
*YOU* supply both negative & positive via the alligators….that makes a red light turn-on to tell you…your powerd. Now…there is ANOTHER red bulb that turns-on when you probe a HOT POSITIVE…and A GREEN BULB turns-on if you probe a GOOD NEGATIVE
What appears to be “normal” to you……….
….ain’t so “NORMAL” underneath it.
Follow with a solution of hot water and BAKING SODA… TO NEUTRALIZE THE ACID!
1. Clean your battery terminals and using a DVOM test the battery voltage on the battery terminals ONLY.
2. Remove the cable from the OTHER end but leave it attached to your battery.
3. DVOM test the voltage at the end of the cable.
4. If it lost more than .2 volts (point two volts) REPLACE THE CABLE!
This vent pipe grounds the valve cover.
If it was removed….I suggest you ground it.