A.C.T info: TB#2 also applys to STOCK replacement clutchs. The older catalog pretty much say….”REPLACE OLD HYDRAULICS.”
TB#8…….very interesting…..DIVERSION from the pure truth.
Sometimes….INTELLIGENCE is…..’borrowed’ from Professor Quest manuals. Since a ACT employee owns a STARQUEST…..has access to RE-WRITE newer catalogs from MY S.O.S. manuals…..a “THANK-YOU” is in order here………Mr. ACT. Keep reading……I’ll take you DEEPER! A KNOWN defect with a A.C.T. disc? yep.
Do you want a better clutch-action part?
The above clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is ALL METAL & 10mm
Note the ADJUSTMENT ROD TYPE……No ‘cush’ rubber type.
Later in this manual…..you’ll see you can buy a replacement, ‘SOLID’ adjustment rod. Use of PRETTY PEDAL COVERS…. :lol:THICK FLOOR MATS….. RESTRICTS PEDAL TRAVEL!
Note the “standard value” (B) is ONLY 1-3mm….at the BOTTOM of the pedal!
TRANSLATED: DAMN NEAR ZERO at the CLEVIS PIN!
Do you see…..that silver shiney spot on the pedal? Clutch pedals do not like TURNING SIDEWAYS! “My clutch pedal RESISTANCE is excessive”. Didn’t have that much WEAR on the pedal bushings……either. Pics are installed on page 4.
“I put in a new clutch, but now it won’t RELEASE.”
This is the CLEVIS PIN with factory instructions of how to adjust your ‘free-play’ and checking your PEDAL HEIGHT. this is spread over several pages…….I suggest you RE-READ all pages within this topic.
STOP! Hey, the factory manual FAILS to point out WORN-OUT PARTS that are COMMON on 100k miles Starquest! “It’s not worn THAT BAD!” You failed MATH……didn’t you?
Btw….what does it say ABOVE “WORN OUT PARTS” (see the first page…6-4)
BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Get your ducks in a row.
Many aftermarket replacement HP clutches state in the instructions that you should probably rebuild/replace the HYDRAULICS. You are about to put them under a load they have never had to deal with before. They WILL fail in short order.
There are THREE differant clutchs used in this car. TWO differant 225mm (8 7/8″) one for intercooled cars and one without intercooled cars. (thru 87) They use a differant TOB and a differant ROD inside the SLAVE CYLINDER. And the 240mm (9 7/16″ 88/89)
Buy a complete clutch kit. This should include: Pressure plate, Disc, Throw-out bearing (known as TOB) Pilot bearing and Alignment tool. 5 peice kit. 2 quarts of new gear oil. Find a machine shop that can REMOVE YOUR DOWEL PINS CORRECTLY (or replace them) and resurface the flywheel……IF it is REAL TOASTY!
UNHOOK THE GROUND FROM YOUR BATTERY!!! This topic contains info that will help you to install a clutch in a proper fashion. It also contains info to CORRECT other’s replacements from the past that was done INCORRECTLY or overlooked. Also contains some MODS.
Do you want a better clutch-action part?
The above clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is ALL METAL & 10mm
You won’t believe the increased performance!
Yep…….I don’t like VIBRATION either!
We can CURE any problem!
Torqued to 36-43 ft. lbs.
Index driveshaft and companion flange with punch and remove drive shaft. This is a part that might have been removed before and not indexed. So keep that in mind.
Also…..orbit both ends to see if the u-joints are showing any signs of wear. Inspect the slip-yoke bearing surface and seal surface for wear.
U-joint replacement instructions w/ part numbers are on another topic:
Unbolt this wire loom and remove.
Disconnect reverse light connector.
Unscrew speedo cable from the “Pulse Generator”. The pulse generator sends a signal to the ABS controller located under the sub-floor in the right rear hatch.
Dumping ABS? Use the adapter from a non-ABS vehicle……even the truck version works too
Remove bolt and retaining fork. NOTE: Gear oil leaking from this area is caused by 2 O-rings. One external, one internal. MF520403 & MD701788
NOTE: If you have removed your ABS you may eliminate this part and replace it with a adapter from an earlier car/truck that did not have ABS.
Clip any wire/zip ties. That cable is routed incorrectly. Should be above crossmember.
The outer mounts:MB309333 upper and MB309334 lower. You’ll need TWO of each at $5.55 ea. if they are damaged or SOFT from gear oil contamination.
“I installed the BSEK…..I feel too much VIBRATION.”
Over-looking the OBVIOUS?…..
Note black and yellow cable. Important RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION GROUND.
Clean ALL surfaces and grind paint from BOTH SIDES of new trans mount. Also remove the ground from the frame and clean it’s contact surfaces. Trans mount/insulator: Mitsu MB006705 $74.44 list
I tried an AFTERMARKET trans mount…. Just bolting it in….NO FRICKING WAY I’ll run that “ANCHOR-BRAND!”
“My OEM trans mount looks fine & wasn’t oil soaked…to ME!”
Ahhhhhh, maybe he was WRONG?
There are TWO indexes. Mark one and remove the pulse generator.
Note: Correct install of lower shifter boot. It wraps around the edge of the sheet metal. Also note shifter bolts. You unbolt the shifter from BELOW and leave it in the car.
No need to take apart the console.
The clutch had already been replaced in this car. They TRIED to seal the shifter using silicone. They failed and the gear oil will DAMAGE all things made of RUBBER! A NEW gasket is the smart move here. MD703655
Note incorrect install of lower shifter boot. Lower trans about 4″ and remove 4 shifter retaining bolts. Leave shifter in car.
No need to lower trans this far to remove shifter from trans.
STOP! There needs to be a gasket sealing the shifter to the trans. If you clean ALL the gear oil away silicone will work. Also, there is a nylon fulcrum bushing inside the lower shifter boot that is frequently broken. Once you lower the trans, if you see a brown, plastic chips in the area below the shifter…….your’s is broken.
It is only sold with a new shifter ass. $160. See “Stedebani short throw shifter” topic:
Note the manufactors LOGO/TRADEMARK cast right into this slave cylinder. More on this later.
Remove two bolts from clutch slave cylinder. If removing slave to rebuild…….put a C-clamp on the hose so the system will not drain. Replace copper gaskets, they don’t like to seal TWICE.
STOP! If your clutch felt weird, remove the rubber boot NOW. Using a flashlight look at the backside of the release fork to SEE if the retaining clip was broken off or badly bent. If the clip is broken……..you’ll NEED to replace the release fork, so make the arrangements now.
KNOW…the year model of your trans! The TENTH LETTER in your VIN number!
I= never used
Remove top two fastners. Leave the bottom ones for last.
SPECIAL NOTE: These two bolts can be remover from the top with a GOOD, LONG 14mm BOX-END WRENCH…..TORQUE SETTING 31-40 ft. lbs.
Unbolt starter. The STATER bolts should be 60mm long!
Torque setting: 16-23 ft. lbs.
The lower bellhousing bolts are 65mm long. They are often switched! :roll:Torque settings 31-40 ft. lbs. page 21-12.
SPECIAL NOTE: Failure to PROPERLY TORQUE trans bolts= THEY BACK-OUT FROM VIBRATION!!! = “MY CLUTCH WON’T RELEASE!”
The job is much easier with the right tools. The bell-housing should be torqued to 40 lbs but….it might be tighter or looser.
And….you can use a long 14mm BOXED-END wrench from the TOP 2 bolts, under-da-hood if you prefer.
After removing the two lower bell-housing bolts, use a chiesel at this point to seperate the trans from the engine……..working both sides.
MAKE SURE THE JACK IS SUPPORTING THE TRANS CORRECTLY!!!
Note CORRECT BALANCE POINT ON TRANS. Red plug is FILL HOLE for trans. After the trans is reinstalled completely, fill with 75/85W gear oil (or your favorite “trick-shift”) until oil starts to come out of hole.
Mitsu’s, OBSOLETE mount and MANY, aftermarket trans
mounts wasn’t bent, CORRECTLY!
Even if the mount looks OK…….it’s still worn out. Think of that rubber as a tire. ALL tire manufactors have a rule: From the WEEK of manufactor…..4 year life span from DE-HYDRATION! Aftermarket mounts?
“I want ‘EURETRASHED MOUNTS’! Hope you LOVE vibration sent right to your ass!
5 speed, Mitsu’s mounts: MB006705 $74.44 retail $49.87 wholesale.
Failure to seal the shifter correctly will cause gear oil to leak on the mount. That’s ONE of the reasons why this mount is so trashed. Bad shifter VIBRATION? You’re looking at one of the reasons.
Outer mounts could also be bad. Upper MB309333 Lower MB309334 all are $5.55 ea.
You can use your finger to do this. Pull forward on front part of clip, rotating the top of clip towards trans. Remove throw out bearing.
STOP! This is where a newbie will blow it!!
You could do some damage here.
DO NOT PULL FORWARD ON THE RELEASE FORK!
Pull release fork toward boot opening to UNSNAP it from the fulcrum!!
Don’t go crazy or you will damage the FORK RETAINING CLIP on the back of release fork.
Remember, the car has probably had the clutch replaced before….and the clip may already be bent or BROKEN OFF.
TOB Clutch release clips MD701242 $1.54 each. Easy to damage if you get stupid.
Note FULCRUM at 4 o’clock. MD715650
Release fork boot number MD703280
Release fork MD703275
Look for excess or uneven wear at the bearing contact points. This one is marginal. MD703275
Normal clip position on the left, bent clip on the right.
Rotate the clip 90* and GENTLY bend back down CLOSEST to the rivet.
This is best done buy using the edge of the work bench with the clip resting on the bench.
*DO NOT APPLY THE FORCE TO THE TIPS OF THE CLIP!*
The wear marks on top of the clip suggest the clip was…
installed OVER the fulcrum HEAD…. instead of UNDER the fulcrum HEAD. Clutch pedal must have felt like crap.
It also tends to damage the fulcrum. MD715650
Maybe some SAND PAPER can SOS that FULCRUM!
Same as the SOCKET…in the release fork.
Be careful not to bend the clip….on the backside of the release fork.
I have noticed that on previous clutch replacements the clip is often already bent.
If so……rotate the clip 90*…..GENTLY BEND IT BACK and then return it to it’s proper position.
The fulcrum needs to SNAP INTO PLACE when you install the fork.
With further detail…clean parts.
Left: NOT BENT FORK/SPRING……………..Right: BENT FORK/SPRING!
GENTLY…rotate the clip 90*…
You’ll want a SOLID EDGE to bend the CLIP…..
……back where it was from the factory.
It is BENT….right next to the RIVET.
If you get STUPID…or WRECKLESS…or CIRCUMVENT these
INSTRUCTIONS, you take the RISK of replacing the release fork.
Wire brush input shaft. Make sure it is spotless and has NO BURRS or built up grease.
Red marks indicate grease points. NOTE: The forked part of the clip on the release lever is DOWN INSIDE THE RECESS. This makes the fulcrum SNAP into place. If yours is BENT……rotate the clip 90*, GENTLY bend it back down then return it to it’s proper position. IMPORTANT!!!
Inspect the tip of the input shaft for damage. If the pilot bearing seized up it could be damaged.
Slide your NEW pilot bearing onto the input shaft. It should slide on easily. If not, you could have a hard time when installing/removing the trans!
If you can’t slide the bearing on, measure the shaft. It should measure .590 The bearing area could be about .588 from wear. Sand- paper the tip if the bearing won’t slide on easily.
Notice counter sink in release fork. Fill with grease. This feature was started in 88. Sooo, why did the UPGRADE wait until 1988?
Maybe two many COMPLAINTS came forward…….for AVAILABLE LACK OF LUBRICATION……in ALL MODELS?
Do you want a better clutch-action part?
The above clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is ALL METAL & 10mm!!
Do you want a better clutch-action part? The above clutch master cylinder adjustment rod is ALL METAL & 10mm!! Fill the slot (marked in red) up with grease. Put a dab on the other red marks.
Why the two differant T.O.B. HEIGHTS
(throw out bearing)
Should measure 27mm on innercooled cars in both 225mm and 240mm disc.
BCA Release bearing number 614053 List $58.65 wholesale $26.42 Which is actually the NTN bearing supplied by Mitsu.
Innercooled bearing on the left, non-innercooled on the right.
Non-intercooler measures 32mm. This will only be found on 225mm disc.
Notice the difference in the collars. These are both NTN bearings. One is machined steel, while the other is STAMPED steel.
Carquest Intercooled 225mm clutch pressure plate & TOB
Carquest Non-intercooled 225mm clutch pressure plate & TOB…… The DIAPHRAGM SPRING is always the same.
NOTE:First series of A.C.T. DISC, THE VERY EDGE OF THE RIVETS CAME INTO CONTACT WITH THE FLYWHEEL (removed to test after 1,200 miles)….”FIT & FINISH.”
Make this flywheel holding tool out of at LEAST 1x1x3/16 angle iron. Use the PP as a template.
STOP! and LISTEN! Your torque wrench is gonna LIE TO YOU of it’s torque if the flywheel IS NOT LOCKED DOWN!
Many members report back that the flywheel comes loose….AGAIN! USE THE ANGEL IRON!! Not some BS means to hold that flywheel!
This tool will hold the flywheel while you remove and install it.
This is important ….and where most guys will screw-up!!
WARNING! ROTATING THIS ENGINE IN REVERSE….
CAN CAUSE THE T-CHAIN TO JUMP!
You CAN NOT get the proper torque if the flywheel is moving…or if the BOLTS are BENDING!!
It’s a “Clear and Present Danger” that most of you are LOST when it comes to balancing and ENGINE or FLYWHEEL! The ROTATING MASS of a CRANK & RODS are a DIFFERANT MASS than the FLYWHEEL. The FW is/can be balanced as a SEPERATE PART! DUH!
CAUTION: Allowing a shop to balance ANYPART is subject to PROFESSIONALISM, STATE-OF-DA-ART EQUIPMENT, LACK OF KNOWLEDGE & EXPERIENCE!!!
Use a GOOD 6 point 19mm socket and 1/2 breaker-bar. The heads on the bolts are small and EASY TO ROUND-OFF. This is known as a “FLANK-DRIVE” socket…….that means it drives the bolts on the FLANKS instead of the CORNERS…..cause the corners are RADIUSED.
Torque flywheel bolts to 94-101 ft.lbs.!
USE BLUE LOCTITE!! There is TWO forms of RED Loctite that is even TUFFER to remove the flywheel! The threads on these bolts are hammered from being loose. Also note…….there was no Locitite used. Red Loctite requires you to HEAT to 450*F for 5 minutes to soften the red loctite. How you gonna do that when the FW bolts a inside the CRANKSHAFT?
Tap with a 12mm X 1.25 “BOTTOMING” tap to remove old Loc-tite. Wire brush the flywheel bolts clean of old Loc-tite as well. Apply BLUE Loc-tite to the bottom half of the bolt only.
Criss-cross torque to 94-101 ft.lbs.!!! But sneak up on the final torque.
MAKE SURE TO USE THE ANGLE IRON TO HOLD THE FLYWHEEL STEADY!!!
FLYWHEEL SIDE of hte DISC!
Silver marks……ground rivets on a new (slightly used) disc. 240mm
Notice rivets on new disc have ground into flywheel (yellow marks) Some disc do this….some don’t.
Check yours. This would NOT be a problem on a Fidanza!
Only 88s & 89s flywheels had the hole for the PIN!
If the rivets are too wide for flywheel, have the machine shop machine the opening about 3/8″ wider and about .100 deep to clear the rivets. Remember, as the disc wears the rivets will become closer to the flywheel.
What does this dowel pin do? It takes the SIDE LOAD off the FW BOLTS. It’s function is NOT to align the FW! That…..is the job of the LIP on the backside of the FW.
88/89s have them. But if you don’t have the dowel pin already….install a MD005994 $4.68 dowel pin. Secure with Loc-tite RC 680 or 620.
DON’T DRIVE IT IN TOO DEEP (easy enough to do )
It should stick out .270″!!!
This OEM dowel pin is a TUFF lil’ MFer!
These are NOT…”torque-to-yeild” bolts! NONE OF THEM!
They can be used over & over if you didn’t ROUND the corners!
The replacement Mitsu FW bolt HEX is TALLER and WILL come into contact with the springs in the disc!
This is the p/n from the Mitsu parts CD that is……..INCORRECT!!! Use the parts number from the BELOW pic.
Pressure plate bolts MF241251 $1.57 ea. x6
Pressure Plate dowel pins: Mitsu MF472404 x3
CORRECT Flywheel bolts: MD008839 for 5 speeds!
Fidenza flywheel has 6″ opening, no rivet problems.
Stock is 5 7/16. Rivet problems ABOUND!
Btw…….RE-SURFACING a FW? There is NO SPEC in the factory manual about re-surfacing a FW! In other words……removing material says…….if you have a WORN ENGINE THRUST BEARING says………..(another “complaint”) suggested by Aftermarket manufacturers of clutches.
Make sure it seats FLUSH all the way around.
Now…..do you wanna tell me the KM132 is a “WEAK TRANS”?
Sorry……*YOU*, are what is “WEAK”. You, and the previous owners!
When this pilot bearing is BEATN-ROUND…it WHOBBLES-OUT the PRESS-FIT
of the FLYWHEEL! Congrads! Whipped-out two parts at once! Maybe three when the input SHAFT surrenders!
The A.C.T. HD Street/Strip Clutch 240mm was the same P/N for the Mazda RX-7. And…..if you UPGRADE to the “Xtreme” PP clutch…..you use the SAME HD DISC!
Because using the “Xtreme” places MUCH MORE THRUST on your ENGINE THRUST BEARING……if your engine bearings are NEGLECTED, in short order…..the “X” factor could FORCE an engine rebuild/crankshaft damage
However….This was removed from the ACT catalog because this would be IMPOSSIBLE. A slave cylinder is SELF-ADJUSTING REST POSITION to make up the LOST MATERIAL on a thrust bearing or the crank area that it thrust against.
From 2002 ACT catalog. Do you KNOW what a turbocharged engine does to OIL? A “factory defect”? Hmmmmmmm. I’m thinking….the OWNER(S) has the DEFECT!
Installing/Removing Pressure Plate:
Tighten/Loosening in a criss-cross pattern a little at a time to AVOID BENDING THE COVER= Clutch will not disengage!
Install:Torque to 15 lbs.
Trans fill hole. 75W-80
NOTE: You only need to remove these screws if you need to replace the ENTIRE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY! Bout $150 for a OEM Mitsu part. OBSOLETE now!
Often the shifter boot screws are rusted solid. You can peel back the rubber boot and HEAT THE NUT with a torch to help them release.
CAUTION: Two man job. Don’t set-fire to the interior or carpet!
A note about your HYDRAULICS.
Brake fluid (DOT3) is what you use. Brake fluid is a DESICANT. That means it ABSORBS MOISTURE. BAD NEWS! Over time the moisture will ATTACK the master and the slave BORES, making 100% SEALING NOT ATTAINABLE.
The reason for this is generally not the SEALS FAULT. It’s the CONTAMINATION of the bore with tiny particles from the corrosion. The hydraulics were probably working fine when the car was parked. It’s sitting around with the MOISTURE in the fluid that created the rust.
New slave for intercooled cars MD710317, non-intercooled cars MD710381.
The Auto Zone part had the longer rod and was built like crap and the rubber boot was ready to snap right out of the box……and they CONTINUE to SWITCH TIAWAN MADE PARTS!
It’s ALL a PITA CRAP!
Your hydraulic system was built-around DOT 3.
Using DOT 4 would be of NO HELP!
Hydraulic fluid will SUCK-IN moist air!
Always use NEW fluid and CAP THE BOTTLE IMMEDIATELY!
That drive rod should be 3.200″/81.3mm (3-3/16″) long on INTERCOOLED CARS. MD603465
Non-intercooled cars MD603466
The non-intercooled car’s rod is slightly LONGER 3.400″/86.5mm (3-13/32″)= a SHORTER TOB!
Mitsu screwed up on the 88 Brake MC…..HINT.
REACTION TIME/SPEED SHIFT:
This RESTRICTER VALVE allows a FAST DIS-ENGAGE of your clutch……but it SLOWS THE ENGAGE SPEED= A CLUTCH THAT WANTS TO SLIP Remove it for your test…..odds are, you’ll leave it out for good. I did!
IDing which FW you have…….225mm or 240mm.
On a 240mm……the dowels will be 10mm from the edge of the FW.
Parts numbers 8 & 9……those nylon bushings are worn bad enough to allow the PEDAL to walk SIDEWAYS!
You see that sliver, shiney part on the edge of the pedal?
It’ll also be worn the same 180* at the other end.
Bushings MB058634, Spacer MB151139
NOBODY……ever re-greased this part!
Could it be……….there’s four times the FRICTION there should be here? This clevis pin is usually worn out and badly grooved.
You’ll run out of adjustment on the adjustment rod before you get the free-play down to .2″
Replace with MF473490. It’s a cheap part but a new adjustment rod and a new clevis pin will make a world of difference in the way your clutch works.
“BENCH-BLEEDING”…..makes bleeding a MC very easy and fast.!
Install the RIGHT adapter…..place the hose at the BOTTOM of the reservoir…..fill with DOT 3…….
The STOP RING fixes the piston in a RELAXED POSITION……your ADJUSTMENT ROD’s JOB is to CLOSE the GAP between the PISTION & the PEDAL……NOTHING MORE…NOTHING LESS!
the words “FREE-PLAY” means……DO NOT FORCE THE PISTON BEYOUND THE FIXED POSITION BY OVER LENGHTENING THE ADJUSTMENT ROD!
IT’s job is NOT to prevent the TOB from coming into contact with the pressure plate fingers!! THAT……would be an OLD SCHOOL THOUGHT!! The TOB is in FULL-TIME CONTACT with the PP FINGERS….at least IT SHOULD BE!
Start STROKING your adjustment rod…..you’ll see air bubbles being pumped out. If you look closely….even if all air has left the hose….make sure you don’t see AIR BUBBLES trapped in this area.
This is how you can SPOT that AIR is in the MC…..if you’re not SURE…..where the problem is. Make SURE the adapter is SNUG…..so air can’t sneak by the threads……too.
OK……let’s say you are AIR-BUBBLE FREE! You remove the adapter…..guess what? you allowed a SMALL AMOUNT OF AIR TO ENTER! That’s OK…..NORMAL for “BENCH-BLEEDING”.
You…….plug the opening with a rubber cap/tape…….now you pushed in that small amount of AIR into the piston chamber. This PREVENTS excess loss of fluid while you bolt this sucker down!
That’s cool……..once you INSTALL the MC & ATTACH the steel line…..IT NOW (the nut) BECOMES A BLEEDER to bleed out that small amount of air!
That requires a HELPER to pump your clutch pedal (3 strokes) …..held firm…….AND NEVER LIFT ON THAT PEDAL UNTIL YOU CLOSE THAT NUT! and DO NOT over-tighten that FRICKING NUT!
If you FAIL to pass along the instructions to the “pumper”…….you let go of that pedal…..YOU JUST SUCKED AIR RIGHT BACK IN! And……..THOSE STROKES NEED TO BE COMPLETE STROKES cause there is an INTERNAL-ONE-WAY-VALVE….so, NO PRE-LOADING OF THE PISTON ASSEMBLY. This can also happen from TOO MUCH LENGTH OF THE ADJUSTMENT ROD!!!
The rod is 6mm……the nut is 12mm……and the bell is 14mm. Hold the bell with a 14mm wrench, then loosen nut with 12mm wrench.
You then can rotate the rod with: Your fingers, small pliers or a 6mm wrench. Notice how many threads are showing.
I am very much aware that another rod is slightly longer…..with more threads too. So….it’s a “BOLT-IN” threaded rod. Give me one GOOD reason to tell you this application……cause it won’t cure that MOOSHY BELL.
OUR CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT w/CARPET…MID-FOOT PAD.
Right outta the factory……..DEFECTS OCCURE!
This type of “DEFECT” is FINE…..until WORN-OUT PARTS OCCURE! EXTREME WEAR….not enough threads on the adjustment rod to cure this!
YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT w/CARPET…MID-FOOT PAD.
Translated: w/o carpet= “Standard Value:” (A) (7.4-7.6 in.)
Instruction #2…….READ IT!
Instruction #5……BS! Use instruction #1 (above)
“Standard Value” (B)!!
AY ATTENTION to this ELONGATED HOLE……that’s why you have an ADJUSTMENT ROD to make-up for SLOP in your LINKAGE!
But, you only have so many THREADS on the ADJUSTMENT ROD to make up the difference.
We can fix this elongated hole.
The COMBINATION of:
1. an elongated hole X2 ( you have TWO HOLES)
2. a worn-out clevis pin
3. a SOFT hunk of rubber inside the ‘bell’=
NOT ENOUGH THREADS on the adjustment rod to OVER-COME THIS PROBLEM!
Using my HANDS……..I could compress the rubber slug
inside the “bell” by .100″ but I could not compress the NEW one at all!!
Aftermarket makers are notorious for using CHEAPER, SOFTER COMPOUNDS OF RUBBER! A couple bucks more and order it from Mitsu!=
If it ain’t a MITSU or a PQ PART……WASTE OF EFFORT & $$.
Don’t matter if you have “Perfect Free-Play” adjusted already. A SOFT HUNK OF RUBBER WILL LOSE TRAVEL OF THE Master Cylinder PISTON= lose of SLAVE PISTON TRAVEL!
Your clutch, hydraulic system was built-around DOT 3 fluid.
Using DOT 4 fluid is of NO HELP at all!
This BLACK CRAP means your hydraulic fluid is CONTAMINATED!
You should *ALWAYS* replace or flush the *ENTIRE* hydraulic
system parts *BEFORE* replacing the clutch!
Gear oil…on the back of your speedo?
Page 21-28, 88, Vol 1 Starion FSM. details how to install the roll pin.
1. remove the cable & internal cable, too.
2. Clean it
3. re-lube with paste, white lithium, full lenght
(screw it in while squirting the lube to the entrance)
4. Replace o-rings at the generator
A bouncing speedo is:
It stalls the drive cable for a second…then SNAPS-BACK
1. the old lube is dry
2. gear oil is TOO THICK (especially when cold)
MD701788…inner. MF520403…outter MF472536…roll pin