COOLING SYSTEM/COOLING FANS & JUMPER WIRE

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Some of these thermosensors (start at $30) ain’t worth a DIME!
Others can retail as high as $122! Shocked
That Japan aftermarket sensor (far right) MB007639 I purchased for $26…..sept-4-07 but it was the LAST ONE that “Worldpac” had. Crying or Very Sad More info follows.

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This is an EASY FAST FIX for an electric cooling problem. They came on early models so you may be able to pick up a used one.

Some guys want to leave they’re cooling system stock, others use the jumper wire, jumper wire with a grounding switch, etc. We’ll touch base on most of the mods you can make and show how the system works and can be tested.

STOP! Laughing This is the SENSOR/SENDER that is attached to the TEMPERTURE GAUGE in your dash instruments. It ALTERS RESISTANCE via actual HEAD TEMP. Because a SHITY, CORRODED SENSOR & the HARNESS CONNECTOR= RESISTANCE….what is displayed on the gauge……COULD BE A LIE! Shocked CLEAN-UP/REPLACE both the SENSOR and the CONNECTOR to get a REAL READING! Wink

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It says right on the cap “Replace when changing coolant”. That sounds a little too often, but if you have the stock cap, it’s about time to replace it.

YOU CAN…take a straighten, coat hanger and PROBE the
cooling rows to KNOW, if they are OPEN! Wink

Factory radiators have 2 cooling rows. You can only see the rear row in this pic.
You can see the cooling tubes are clean………at least at the top. It could be plugged further down the tubes.
This cooling system was FIRST flushed with Prestone Super Radiator Flush (the large bottle) according to directions. THEN the radiator was removed and sent to a radiator shop for rodding.

You want to use DISTILLED WATER in your cooling system. This is what happens when you use tap water. It plugs your cooling tubes and starts to DESOLVE the solder.

It’s probably to late to even rod this radiator. Rodding envolves removing the upper and lower tanks (melting the solder) and driving skinney rods down thru the cooling tubes.

A better idea is to just replace the CORE with a new 2 row (factory) or better still, a 3 ROW.

Rodding cost about $60 to $100. Many shops no longer perform this service. A NEW 3 row is often “custom made” and should cost about $225.

STOP! STOP! STOP!
DO NOT, purchase the TEP or Summit, relays & harness kits , that are
GARBAGE, compaired to what Mitsu built for you! Rolling Eyes

The drawn-in mod, below (in orange): That is for RUN-ON, cooling fans, Like
a Honda had. The X, indicates, CUT-OFF the ignition supply & CAP-IT!

Kinda like a turbo timer. Wink
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This diagram is for COOLING……NOT A/C related! Cool

WARNING! The PRIMARY THERMO SWITCH is IDed by a NUMBER! The RED DOT may have “BLEACHED” to WHITE!
Sure….people make mistakes and replace with the WRONG PART! Rolling Eyes

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This is the PRIMARY FAN THERMOSENSOR. MD007639 $74 or Carquest/Standard TS-144 $90 net $122 retail, Wells SW-508 $30. (junk) Laughing

Note RED wire. The protective rubber boot was removed. Not a good idea.
The radiator is GROUNDED. At about 185-191*, this ground is sent when the thermosensor CLOSES with the male spade and sends the ground to the red wire. Pretty simple design.

At the harness connector on TOP OF THE RADIATOR……this red wire CHANGES COLOR to BLACK with a YELLOW STRIPE.
You will find this wire is attached to the ROUND, LARGE cooling fan, 22 AMP RELAYS mounted to your radiator support, or fender apron next to the air filter housing.

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Very easy to see if the thermosensor is working. At about 185-191*
the test light should produce a dimmed light. Wink Why is it DIM? Cause it does not REQUIRE a FULL BLOWN GROUND to activate the RELAYS!
And….any SWITCH is gonna have RESISTANCE so you kill-off some of the ground ability……like a dirty connector. Wink

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The SECONDARY FAN THERMOSENSOR operates the same way only CLOSES/GROUNDS at about 212*. Pretty damn TOASTY! Shocked

Note the YELLOW wire is/was coverd with a rubber boot. Wink

When this thermo-sensor switches to ground, it also engages the smaller CONDENSER FAN/PUSHER FAN. (the one at the very front) Wink

What it does: Turns a LIGHT ground…into a
MAJOR ground, via the relays! Wink

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A “jumper wire” simply means attaching a wire between the two thermosensors(connected to the red and yellow wires which are still attached to the thermosensors) That allows all 3 fans to come on when one of the thermosensor switches to ground becuae the yellow wire is “T” into another smaller relay (20 amp) that is right above your coil. This engages the PUSHER FAN! Wink The YELLOW WIRE is changed to BLACK/YELLOW right above your secondary fan.

NOTE: Test TEMPS very because of the ALTITUDE it was tested at.
Tested at 5,000 feet ASL (above sea level) like Denver….and MANY NEW thermo-sensors were tested on the stove……..191* on average. 185*….near the oceans or LOW altitudes. Wink

How the hell do you know one switch from another? Laughing
“85” means…PRIMARY SWITCH= 85*C/185*F
“100” means…SECONDARY SWITCH= 100*C/212*F

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Even if your fans work……..failure to replace this SWITCH is begging for a melt-down. Shocked

How the hell can you tell a “GOOD-GUY” from a “BAD-GUY”? Rolling Eyes “ND” means……what? NIPPONDENSO!
A Japanese company!
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DO NOT REPLACE THE SECONDARY WITH A PRIMARY UNLESS YOU USE THE JUMPER WIRE!!!

As TESTED…over and over…on several cars, If the SECONDARY/PUSHER FANS engages FIRST…the PRIMARY may not engage AT ALL! Rolling Eyes

Just so you KNOW…..sure, you can use the “jumper wire” method upstairs
too…..BUT, I’m no stranger to finding marks that suggest a ROOKIE used a GUESSING-GAME and DAMAGED ELECTRICAL WIRES, SWITCHES, RELAYS, FANS…….etc etc. Rolling Eyes

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Corrosion or a weak connection can cause BOTH fans not to engage at this point.

This one looks good. Wink However…have you noticed what COLOR the wire is? Rolling Eyes

Two of your circuts are where? DOWN LOW….subjected to SALT SPRAY, RAIN, etc. Shocked This IS copper wire with a TIN PLATING PROCESS for DURABILITY! It’s known as “MARINE GRADE WIRE!”

Same as the FOGLIGHTS! Wink What’s common around a body of water?
FOG! Idea

Btw…..that’s an EXPENSIVE FEMALE SPADE CONNECTOR= RELIABILITY! Wink

TESTING, your PRIMARY, cooling fan.
Remember to FLIP-IT-OVER, too!

Note…FULL SHROUD.

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THIS IS DA PRIMARY COOLING FAN MOTOR. Wink
Mitsu part number MB356496 retail price for NEW, $179.
Wattage use= 120 watts.

Using the NIPPONDENSO part number…… Rolling Eyes GOOD LUCK! Laughing

TESTING the SECONDARY, cooling fan.
Remember, to FLIP-IT-OVER!

88s, A/T had a FULL SHROUD!

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THIS IS DA SECONDARY COOLING FAN MOTOR.
Three part numbers= use the 88, 5 speed motor.
MB356543 retail $210
Wattage use= 80 watts.

A “FULL-BLOWN” version of this cooling topic contains 200+ pics!!
I go into GREAT DETAIL to express…..I KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT!!!, but WILL CORRECT ANY TYPO or MISTAKE via a LINK to where the ERROR is read.

The HARNESS-END of *ALL* relays must point DOWNHILL! If not, water will
gather inside it and SHORT IT! Shocked

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All 4 relays are the same, so they may be switched to find a bad one.

Vehicles with intercooler.
1. Primary radiator fan A/C relay.
2. A/C compressor clutch relay.
3.Condensor fan/pusher fan motor relay. (pusher fan)
4. Secondary radiator fan A/C relay.
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3. relay= BLACK/yellow….a factory “T” shared from the secondary thermo switch. Wink

Note: These relays may have been switched to another position. Rolling Eyes
And……TYPOS are present in the factory manuals…….so BE CAREFUL not to believe all you have seen in the factory manuals when it comes to the POSITION/DEFINITION of the relays. Rolling Eyes

CAUTION! Water or condensation gets
inside those rubber boots = FUBAR THE RELAYS! Shocked

WHY THE HELL ARE THEY HUNG FROM RUBBER?

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This is WHY Exclamation

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Cheater “jumper” wire. Cake to install.
Results: All three fans engage when primary thermolsensor
sends a ground at 185*F. Wink

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Drill out the stopper/plug so you JUMP Black/Yellow to Green…and NOT cut either of those two wires. Wink

I recommend you use ONLY the 3M brand!

This mod would make BOTH the primary & secondary cooling fans engage
at the LOWER, PRIMARY, 185*F thermosensor if that thermosensor still works good.

RED SPLICE…is dedicated use for 18-22 gauge wires. Use ONLY that color!
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The COLOR of the wires……road map! Signs of PROBING or electrical tape…… Rolling Eyes You let an INTRUSER (corrosion) inside your harness! Evil or Very Mad

Yes, your cooling fans have a total of 5 relays. These two ROUND relays are for the COOLING FUNCTION (not A/C related) primary and secondary fans.
The SOURCE of the LARGE GROUND comes from two differant locations……one for each relay. Rolling Eyes

These are 22 amp, SERIOUS, OEM relays!!

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GROUND #1. You have a 4 wire connector above your PRIMARY and SECONDARY cooling fan. (passanger side primary) BOTH smaller black wires is the sorce ground for the primary/secondary THERMOSENSORS. These are the sorce for those grounds. Clean the apron & the eyelet and make sure the copper wire is not CORRODED all-ta-hell where it enters the eyelet. NOTE a pic from above. Wink

It grounds:
PRIMARY FAN MOTOR via the primary fan RELAY (large black wire)
SECONDARY FAN SHROUD/RADIATOR (small black wire) direct
Headlight switch
Headlight pop-up motors

GROUND #10
It grounds:
SECONDARY FAN MOTOR via the secondary fan RELAY (large black wire)
SECONDARY FAN SHROUD/RADIATOR (small black wire) direct

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Same deal……a CLEAN, CORROSION FREE CONNECTION! You CAN NOT pass along a SOLID GROUND if it’s INTERRUPTED! Rolling Eyes sand the eyelet….a new screw……CAKE WALK! Wink

The SECOND METHOD using a jumper wire & “T” another wire
to jumper-SWITCH to overide your thermosensors.

The RED, PRIMARY thermosensor wire….changes to GREEN and heads over to TRIGGER the primary fan relay. Wink

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The YELLOW, SECONDARY thermosensor wire….changes to BLACK w/YELLOW and heads over to TRIGGER the secondary fan relay. Wink

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But……if you JUMP WIRE the two together…..all 3 fans will engage at 185-191*  You can do this below your radiator (as pictured) or ABOVE!

Remove about 2″ of the BLACK COVER harness. (DO NOT CUT THE YELLOW WIRE YET) Rolling Eyes

STOP…and READ! The two OEM 8mm bolts were marked with letter “E”. These are to ASSURE the FAN SHROUDS & RADIATOR are WELL GROUNDED so the THERMO-SENSORS/THERMO SWITCHES can do the job!

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The primary and secondary fans have a 4 wire connector. Don’t let that scare you.  One is simply a ground wire to ground the radiator….cause those are ALL PAINTED SURFACES where you BOLT-IN a radiator to painted steel! Rolling Eyes

Another is the thermosensor lead.

The other two LARGE WIRES operate the fan motor.

LARGE BLUE is positive FULL TIME, and the LARGE BLACK is negative that comes from the ROUND RELAY. Wink

BLUE is POSITIVE(+) ALL THE TIME if the FUSIBLE LINK is good!

The yellow wire may LOOK like it goes to the fan motor…but it merely PASSES BY IT under the cover.

Like ALL fan motors……it has TWO WIRES that run the fans, A GROUND (black) and a POSITIVE (blue). Wink

The BLUE wire is HOT ALL THE TIME. The BLACK WIRE is a SWITCHED GROUND……switched by the LARGE ROUND RELAYS.

— DOUBLE CAUTION in the 3 pages that follow:–
Yellow/ Green vs Yellow/Blue….in the diagrams below…they CHANGE their color…..and their DUTIES! Shocked

From an 87 Vol. 2
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Note: Both harness have both single & double terminals connectors known as A-91 connector. Rolling Eyes

From an 88 Vol. 2 CAUTION….again. Laughing *1YG and *2(YG)….(in the diagram) means……two wires have the same color……but do two different things. Wink

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1 terminal vs 2 terminals: Because ONE pin reports to your temp gauge (in your dash) the other terminal reports a LOW TEMP to your AUTOMATIC TRANS RELAY…..if so equipped. By 88….Mitsu went to 2 TERMINALS on 5 speeds and A/T cars……and yes, ALL cars had a 1 terminal & a 2 terminal CONNECTOR.
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On a 5 speed car……you can use EITHER. On a A/T car…..use the 2 terminal connector.

Know this: A 2 terminal sensor COST 4 TIMES AS MUCH! Shocked Like $80+……and you don’t need it on a 5 speed car. Wink

Anddddd…. Laughing all the 2 terminal functions as: IT IS NOW WARM ENOUGH (engine temp & trans temp=same) to use the OVER-DRIVE GEAR.

“Can you CIRCUMVENT this system with a full time GROUND SIGNAL……..or a TOGGLE SWITCH?”…………YEP! Wink But your shifter already has a switch but only works to “DEFEAT da DEFAULT” at warm temp.
From an 88 Vol. 2
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CAUTION: The factory water temp sender IS NOT PIPE THREAD. They are straight thread, like the thermosensors.

Yellow/blue sends a signal…..changes to ANOTHER yellow green and reports to your engine temp gauge………the TOP of the “T”.

Yellow/Green sends a signal (a switch that closed=sent a ground) to the A/T OD relay…..the BOTTOM of the “T”.
Use silicone to seal this sensor.

Sensor marked #4: Yellow/white, sends a GROUND to the A/C clutch relay *UNTIL* that sensor
sees a VERY HIGH TEMP (240*f)…which THEN kills that ground to shut-down the A/C clutch!

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Known as a “CTS”….COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR is very important to have a CLEAN SIGNAL sent to your ECU! Hence….the rubber boot…..or what WAS a rubber boot. Laughing It works on RESISTANCE. So, dirty, corroded connectors……..TELL LIES TO THE ECU! Shocked Service life of the CTS? Variable…..but replacing/cleaning every few years don’t hurt. Wink Bout a $35 sensor.

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This is simply a MINI THERMOSENSOR whoms function is to be a switch that is always turned ON (it sends a full-time ground to the A/C clutch magnet)…….until the engine temp hits 235* Shocked in which case STOPS the A/C compressor to add in the COOL DOWN via COOLING the A/C CONDENSER and less load on the crankshaft too! Rolling Eyes

I don’t WANT/NEED/DESIRE a performance car to weigh in @ 3,107 lbs! Rolling Eyes So, ALL A/C related parts…HISTORY! Ands it’s prettier too! Laughing Laughing

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Yep, I take my DIET seriously. Laughing 8 mores pounds removed by using this DUCT to replace the EVAPORATOR & it’s HOUSING TOO.
If you weigh-up the entire A/C system……. Rolling Eyes It’s a BUNCH! Laughing Pssst…..some Starquest never HAD A/C! Wink

I don’t WANT/NEED/DESIRE a performance car to weigh in @ 3,107 lbs! Rolling Eyes Soooooooo, ALL A/C related parts…HISTORY! Ands it’s prettier too! Laughing Laughing

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Yep, I take my DIET seriously. Laughing 8 mores pounds removed by using this DUCT to replace the EVAPORATOR & it’s HOUSING TOO.
If you weigh-up the entire A/C system……. Rolling Eyes It’s a BUNCH! Laughing Pssst…..some Starquest never HAD A/C! Wink

Cooling…….turbo related. Wink “Can you use it to flush your RADIATOR TOO”? I don’t see why not……unless CALCIUM DEPOSITS are plugging holes in your system. Laughing Laughing Laughing Wink

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The OEM TURBO BANJO BOLTS are 14mm x 1.5 pitch. This one is plugged from calcium deposits.
Russel & Earls makes fittings to convert to AN fittings & hoses.
-6 AN is 3/8″ inside diameter.

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HOW to “RUN-OFF” Laughing…from ‘HEAT SOAK’! and your little old fusable links for sharing this info with you by using a RUN-ON THERMOSENSOR. It’s merely a HEAVY DUTY ON/OFF GROUND SWITCH that does not require a RELAY…….and is TEMPERTURE SWITCHED. Wink

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HEAT SOAK GENERATED ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILURES:
Once you heat up an electrical harness…..it won’t PASS AMPS the way it was designed to. Shocked

You combine that with a BIG-AMP STEREO & DIRTY CONNECTORS: Rolling Eyes
You’ll want a LARGER AMP ALTERNATOR….

You WANT the temps to DROP……….all by itself FAST…….once you shut down your engine. Wink
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Removeing the large, black GROUND wire from the plastic holder of the PRIMARY FAN CONNECTOR…allows slidding on 2 HEAT SHRINKS to seal- up the SOLDER JOINT. Wink (you can use electrical tape if you want Rolling Eyes)

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For EXAMPLE ONLY: This is how Mitsu “TEED” into a LARGE, POSITIVE WIRE…just ONE, became 4 via a WRAP-AROUND BRASS CRUSH SLEEVE…coverd with a VERY SEROIUS ELECTRICAL TAPE. Wink All your Starquest use this method under your relay box.

It is a SIMPLE ADD-ON ACC! By MY DESIGN you have the OPTION to operate the primary cooling fan…or ALL 3 if you have the toggle switch……at the flic of a switch in your dash! Wink

Can you..use this to engage the SECONDARY fan…the one that BLOWS OVER YOUR ALTERNATOR & CHARGING HARNESS?

YES, SIR YOU CAN! (one switch for each fan! Rolling Eyes )

A factory thermosensor is a SMALLER…LOWER AMP version of a simple ON/OFF TEMP switch…AND I STOCK ALL OF THEM! Idea Arrow

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Another way on page 4. Wink

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Definition of what you see here:
1. Red wire is your factory primary thermosenser lead.
2. Yellow wire is your secondary thermosensor lead….that you extended via a butt connector.
3. Orange wire is a CONTINUATION lead to your dash for a toggle switch.
(this can be a 15 amp toggle switch……no significant “load” on it. Wink
Note: Using a NEW primary thermo-sensor and a NEW run-on thermo-sensor…spells 50k miles without a care! Wink

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A FAST replacement harness connector=male/female spade connectors. Wink (factory unit failed after 113K miles Rolling Eyes)
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This IS…a DIFFERANT VERSION of a TEE! Wink
1. RED: Primary thermosensor wire/lead.
2. YELLOW: Secondary thermosensor wire/lead extension
3. ORANGE: Wire to a GROUND SWITCH in your dash.

Therefore…your primary thermo-sensor is NOW “jumped” to your secondary relay. CAKE! And spare me… Rolling Eyes …there is NO LOAD on this system. Wink

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TYPO: A switched POSITIVE (+) ignition/ACC.
Gauge or no gauge…..an “IDIOT LIGHT” draws ATTENTION to your ENGINE TEMP! You have the OPTION to use TWO LIGHTS. One for 185*F and another for 212*F…..but, don’t use the jumper wire if you run twin lamps……unless you’re from Las Vegas. Laughing

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Your stereo harness (ACC.)……… Wink The LIGHT…..TALKS TO YOU about WHEN the fans engage while parked or driving down the road! Wink CAKE! An “IDIOT LIGHT” brings your ATTENTION to your GAUGE! Rolling Eyes

What you will see:
1. No use of the cheap-o 15 amp toggle switch= a DIM ‘REMINDER’ LIGHT when the primary thermo-sensor see about 191*….all 3 fans engage.

2. Using the toggle switch= a BRIGHT LIGHT because a STRONGER GROUND over-rides the WEAK GROUND primary thermo-sensor….all 3 fans engage.

3. No use of the toggle switch, but the A/C is on= Regardless of engine temp….all 3 fans engage.

4. No use of toggle switch but has the OPTIONAL RUN-ON THERMOSENSOR=…..only the PRIMARY FAN ENGAGES…if she is warm enough.

5. Use of COMMON SENSE=….USE THIS MANUAL! Laughing Laughing Laughing

6. Use of a GOOD 2 row radiator and the suggested 160* thermostat=…FANS THAT ENGAGE RARELY (unless you use your A/C) Rolling Eyes

7. Benifit of 3 fans running= a SHORT TERM of engaging 3 fans! Wink
Does this WEAR OUT a battery or an Alt?…..IF IT DID MITSU WOULD NOT ALLOW THIS TO HAPPEN ON A HOT DAY!! Rolling Eyes

8. Benifit of 3 fans running= LESS WEAR & TEAR on your primary cooling fan….and all 3 fan motors!!! Cool HEAT SOAK………GONE!

9. “My “reminder light” comes on A LOT by itself!”= First sign that you have a blown head gasket/TB base gasket or a CRACKED HEAD!= TOO LATE for a SIMPLE MOD! Laughing

10. UNDERSTAND…..using the toggle switch is the COMMAND TO ENGAGE A FACTORY HI-AMP RELAY!!! Rolling Eyes NEVER USE A TOGGLE SWITCH TO A DIRECT GROUND SOURCE…DIRECT TO A FAN MOTOR!!! The AMP-DRAW is HEAT GENERATED DEATH to a low-amp switch= FIRE IN-DA-HOLE!! Shocked

“Can you use a LIGHTED 15 amp toggle switch?”
“Can you use a second lamp that is wire to the secondary thermosensor to warn of HIGH TEMPS?”
YEP…..YEP…….YEP! This is a VERY LOW AMP LOAD CIRCUT! Wink

If you have EVER jump-started a battery……what cable should you make contact LAST? THE GROUND CABLE!……..WAY LESS SPARK is what you would notice. That makes your ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SWITCHES very HAPPY! SPARKS eat away COPPER or CONTAMINATES the contact surfaces Exclamation Wink

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You’ll need a 52mm thermostat. The “STANT” brand does not make a “PREMIUM STANT” that is rated at 160*…so I make them myself from a 54mm 160*. The “PREMIUM” stats cost about $11. Yep….double the cost. SO WHAT! Laughing

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A “POPPET VALVE” allows the RADIATOR COOLANT to sneak-up the tempeture…….slowly. It’s a ONE-WAY VALVE……..SOMETIMES. A 1/16″ hole (NO LARGER!) will do the same job.

OR……..
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You’ll want the ENGINE, TCS, TB, HEATER CORE to warm….quickly. At least….that’s what the EPA WANTS! Laughing

WITHOUT a “POPPET VALVE”…..it is common to hear (when the thermostat opens)…………”POP” Exclamation When COLD COOLANT COLLIDES WITH WARM COOLANT……cause the stat flew OPEN….. Shocked “POP”.
That “POP” can DAMAGE A COOLING SYSTEM! Shocked

This cooling diagram is from the 88 factory manual. This is such a POOR diagram……it was not used in the 89 manual. Rolling Eyes I gather that this is a GENERAL diagram of all 2.6 engines.

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Because there is more cooling going on in there, TB, EGR GASES…….more pics are inbound. Wink

Thermostats can fail in several fashions. This one from another import car….the heater temp was very cold cause it stuck/broke when is was opened on a warm day. But…..if they fail on a cool engine, you’ll OVER-HEAT….even on a winter day cause now the stat will not open. Shocked

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The thermostat on the left says 52mm right on it. The one on the right…rated a 160* was no measurement on it. It IS a tiny bit larger than 52mm…it is NOT CHROME (like a premium) so you can use a FILE to trim it down to 52mm.

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BY-THE-BOOK PREMIUM Stant…cept it’s the optional LOWER temp. 180* Rolling Eyes

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OK…I’ve taken enough of these engines apart to recognize that USING TOO MUCH SILICONE can BLOCK/RESTRICT coolant flow thru “B”…. Shocked “B”…is VELOCITY INCREASED COOLANT FLOW TO YOUR CYLINDER HEAD…DIPSTICK Exclamation Laughing

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And, if this gasket has failed, COOLANT IS DUMPED, INSIDE THE OIL PAN! Shocked

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Turn on a open garden hose…..know place your thumb over it. VELOCITY INCREASED Exclamation Idea Arrow

Yep, inside the BLOCK has a DIVERSION SEMI-DAM to DIRECT coolant to the CYLINDER HEAD! Twisted Evil

Btw…. MITSU WATER PUMPS & FRONT COVER VIRGIN ENGINES used NO SEALANT……AT ALL! Rolling Eyes

A FINGER SMIRRRR….of silicone is fine. Wink

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Flipping the intake manifold……. Embarassed Don’t let that confuse you. Laughing

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The coolant flow is a SOLID RED LINE….the EGR tube is lower near the inside of the intake manifold. So…..yeah…..it cools that HOT-ASSED EGR INERT GAS TOO!
The dotted red line…..that’s more of a DAM when the bottom is installed. Wink

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This SOLID RED LINE…indicates the EGR GAS FLOW to the EGR VALVE. Wink

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STOP! Does RESTRICTING or STOPPING coolant flow thru your TB an asset to PERFORMANCE? Rolling Eyes When you COMPRESS AIR…….you HEAT it…….hence, INTERCOOLERS. Soooooo, you’d need to TEMP TEST under variable conditions to see if you COOLED IT……or HEATED IT! Shocked
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Water hose: MD072730

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You can, shut-down the TB coolant. But, that might NOT
be a asset! Rolling Eyes
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Laser, temp checkers are $30. Cool Home Deblow.
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Hey….you gotta 20 year old heater core inside, that is now WEAKEND! Jerking on those hose spells DISASTER! Shocked
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A straight 10mm/ or 3/8″ turbo coolant return hose will KINK.  So much for cooling the turbo. Rolling Eyes I just upgraded to the later steel return hose. Wink

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CAUTION…on NON Mitsu water pumps! The THICKNESS
of the housing is typically THINNER….requiring SHORTER BOLTS or stacked-washers!  If not…you could drive those water pump bolts STRAIGHT-THRU the timing cover! Shocked

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If you suspect you have a waterpump gasket failure….use a mirror to VERIFY where the leak REALLY IS. When a interior seal fails….it leaks from this hole. Wink

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Because this SWITCH…….yep, it IS a SWITCH, is SO IMPORTANT to it’s PROPER FUNCTION……. Rolling Eyes
the “IDIOT LIGHT” can TALK TO YOU, saving your ENGINE!
“made in Brazil”
“made in USA”
“made in Japan” who you gonna trust? Rolling Eyes

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Wells products have a TERRIBLE REPUTATION……and for $30? Rolling Eyes
My ASSURANCE is worth MORE THAN THAT! Idea Arrow

The “Standard” brand……sold by Carquest #TS-144 nets for $90 and retails for $122! Shocked And…..they are no longer stocked even at the local warehouses! It’s now a REGIONAL warehouse stocker…….that makes this switch….A SPECIAL ORDER! Evil or Very Mad

You know PQ…… Laughing I just gotta KNOW the GOOD-GUYS from the BAD-GUYS! Wink
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At 105K miles on my FREE Conquest had:
1. A failed primary themosensor SWITCH (low amp draw switch)
2. A failed A/C relay
3. A failed RH HUB inner bearing race (vibration/shock)
4. A failed RH outter tie-rod (vibration/shock)
5. failed shocks x4 and front strut insulators x2 (vibration/shock)
6. A cooling fan harness where a Scotch-rite was used INCORRECTLY. Rolling Eyes
7. A CRACKED cylinder head……and was parked for 10 years.
8. last owner was a CARPENTER! Laughing

Shocks/vibration…..super-heated……what’s next? Cool

Breaking into a WIRE……a “T” or “PIGGY-BACK”, if you will. If you want to run more amps, more watts……whatever, you get as CLOSE to the AMP MONSTER (your fans).. Cool……as you can. Wink
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This is a Alt. charging wire from A Lexus. HUGE! Laughing

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The RUN-ON switch, YELLOW 18 gauge wire use on the secondary side…..at 185* will engage your secondary cooling relay……and provide the GROUND from BOTH BLACK WIRES.  This a 10 gauge eyelet. Idea

Two yellow 18 gage wires….. the other one that goes to your DASH LAMP to indicate the secondary & the “PUSHER FAN” engaged……but NO TOGGLE SWITCH unless you use 12 gage & a 30 amp+ OVER-RIDE toggle switch…….and NO USE OF THE “JUMPER-WIRE” method.

You have TWO DIFFERANT circuts that are low-amp draw. The “run-on” switch is HIGH AMP designed….so a jumper wire w/ a over-ride toggle needs to SHARE high amp designs. Wink

Image Use your wire cutter to snip of the eyelet….first. File-off any sharp edges. Wink
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If you have an open end…..HEAT SHRINK IT! If not….regular electric tape will not stand-up to TEMPS! Shocked

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Because your FANS need a GOOD, RELIABLE GROUND SOURCE….from your BODY APRONS….the APRONS get the SORCE from your BATTERY……via this BOLT and NEGATIVE BATT. CABLE! Wink

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That 22 amp cooling fan relay(s) are a damn good relay…..and they SHOULD be. It’s a solinoid type with serious return spring so it dis-engages the fans when they should. There are TWO of them and the HIGH AMP GROUND SIDE are two differant circuts…….same as the LOW AMP SIDE that is handled by your factory thermoswitches. Wink

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Now…if you use the INDICATOR LAMP, as I have suggested, you can MONITOR your cooling systems.

There are other ways to MONITOR the TEMPS.
Example: Your A/C compressor GROUND switch (in your thermostat housing)…..if attached to a lamp…..the light will be ON until you hit 235*……which kills the ground/lamp and the A/C compressor…if you still have one. Laughing

Left radiator: OEM stock, 88 A/T. Right radiator: OEM stock, 5 speed.

Is it possible to OVER-COOL your engine? ABSOLUTELY! Rolling Eyes  Your CTS & O2 needs to see some TEMPERTURE our else your CTS signal is gonna RICHEN your AFR….cause it THINKS the engine is COLD!

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Running a 160* thermostat, even in summertime, and your cooling system
is operating at 110%….. Rolling Eyes it could create a situation and KILL FUEL ECONOMY!
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The $430-$450 Griffin, single row Aluminum raditor w/ a 160* thermostat..
…better select a 180* thermostat! Same as CLEAN OEM radiators!

This is a 88, A/T (with full-covered shrouds) converted to a Griffin, rad.
At 113k miles, the primary cooling fan needed replaced. Rolling Eyes

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HOW….would your ECU know you are running TOO COLD?

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Install a FULL-TIME LED (light emitting diode) from the “self-diagnosis” port.

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Just inside your glovebox (top side)…you can pop-it loose.

Once the engine is warmed…it should emit a solid, red light.

NOTE…the “X” position (in the diagram) to ID which is negative
and which is positive! Rolling Eyes
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This is simple enough to understand….please read ALL of it! Rolling Eyes

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If all of a sudden….the engine cooled-off a lil’ too much, The solid red light
might flash 1 blink……3 times, cause the O2 went cold.

If it flashed 7 blinks….3 times, cause the CTS went too cold.

DO NOT ASSUME those sensors went bad. Rolling Eyes Just a bad, corroded
HARNESS CONNECTOR could be the culprit! Rolling Eyes

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You can lengthen the wires and install it next to your stereo. Wink