Brass freeze plug kit: ROCK FPS-101 $10
Block/Bellhousing dowels x2 Mitsu MD020260
Block/Head dowels x2 Mitsu MS471111
Crank/Flywheel dowel Mitsu MD005994
Flywheel/Pressure Plate dowels x3 Mitsu MF472404
Pressure Plate Bolts x6 Mitsu MF241251
Get organized! You will be dealing with many parts, nuts, bolts etc. Also…there are several topics about rebuilding your engine that you should also review! THOUSANDS of pics that will BREAK-DOWN your engine.
A MAGIC MARKER comes in handy to label parts and fasteners. Many fasteners on this engine appear to be the same length……..some are only a few mm different in length. If you drive one that is too long into a thread……..could make for a disaster.
Harbor Freight sells a engine stand that you will NOT need to remove these dowel bushings.
If you are going to mount your engine to an engine stand, you might want to remove the bellhousing dowels. (bushings) Don’t worry if you trash them. You can get new ones for just few bucks.
However, the engine stands they sell at Harbor Frieght are large enough to go AROUND this bushing.
They sell SHORTER metric bolts so you won’t BEND them!
There are several ways to lift the engine with the head on or off. I prefer to remove the oil pans before placing them on an engine stand.
Be on the LOOK-OUT for problems as you take apart the engine. At one time the flywheel was loose on this engine.
It will “WELD” transferred iron from the flywheel to the crank. This can cause the flywheel to vibrate when you reassembly the engine. Inspect the crank to see if it need attention in this area.
You can see the damage on the alignment lip. Also note the thread marks in the flywheel. You need to secure the crank when you torque the flywheel bolts. And make sure you use Loc-tite along the entire bolt.
You can see the damage it will do to a crank. This crank has no flywheel dowel pin. They started to use the dowel in 88. It’s 9mm. MD005994 about $5. Install with Loc-tite 680.
That CRAP will be inside the piston, oil squirters the oil cooling hoses & oil cooler toooooo! FLUSH IT ALL!!
As soon as I removed the two oil pump pick-up nuts…….the pick-up fell to the floor. That means they did not use the RIGHT O-RING.
It *IS*…a very special o-ring!
Fel-Pro also provides the RIGHT o-rings in their “Conversion Gasket Kit”.
They are going OBSOLETE, todays date, Feb, 15-2011.
They used sealant on the oil pump gasket.
That’s a NO-NO! AND…. the tension sleeve is STUCK in the oil pump. Great quality control…you BENT that shaft!
They filed the back of the oil pump to remove the gasket. That’s just plain foolish as it will hinder sealing of the gasket.
Many IDIOTS use WAY-TOO-MUCH silicone! That appears to be a Mitsu oil pump gasket. The rest of the T-housing, gaskets are Fel-pro.
Which AFTERMARKET parts are you using? Mitsu UPGRADED some *KEY* parts!
The pointer indicates where it was binding. If BOTH parts are new, it won’t bind.
KNOW THIS! Your rods & caps are NOT NUMBERED and they NEED TO BE! You CAN NOT…transfer the parts!
MAKE SURE the rods and rod caps are numbered BEFORE you remove them. (or remove them one at a time and mark them)
Remove both nuts, tap on the bolts LIGHTLY to separate the caps. Now install the protective sleeves. With a long screw driver…..push against the bottom of the piston to remove. Be ready to catch it as it leaves the block.
Note the upper rings ends are nearly touching. The “TOP LAND” has crushed the rings in a nearly closed position. And this is the WORST RING SPACING I have ever seen.
PISTON INFO HERE:
**Insert ENGINE RODS/PISTONS/RINGS Page**
Sometimes the new pistons wrist pins fit too tight and you have to hone the piston boss. The rod should fall under it’s own weight like the piston on the right. Also notice how thick the TURBO wrist pin is on the piston on the right.
The red area (on the block) indicates where the main caps have a light press. Hold the bolts will help you pull the cap off. Don’t try to PRY it off.
#3 & #4 have an additional surface area holding the caps in place. Gently tap both bolts…..working from one side to the other….to remove the caps.
REMOVING your pipe plugs… JUST DO IT!
More info here: http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/sensorssenders-adapters/
Use some carb cleaner to clean out the hole in this pipe plug.
Use a GOOD. HARDENED 5mm allen socket and a breaker-bar to remove. Don’t strip the plug.
If you feel that it is going to strip….*HEAT* the block AROUND the plug
to SOFTEN the Loc-tite. Also you can heat the plug, as it cools it will shrink.
Also remove the rear oil plug, 8mm and the water drain plug. 14mm
This is not a METRIC pipe plug. It’s 1/8″ bpt x28 pitch.
CONVERT-IT to 1/8″ npt x27 pitch…the most common PITCH.
NO SIR! You don’t want a BRASS adapter! Those “Sun-Pro”
adapter kits DO NOT HAVE THE CORRECT ADAPTER!
Screw the tap in with your fingers. You’ll see it’s a perfect fit.
Then tap it about 6-8 full turns and try your fitting or sender in the hole AFTER you have cleaned-out the debris. As you can see……there won’t be much.
The pic below shows just how far away the hole is from the main oil galley. You can tap this hole with the engine in the car and not get debris into the oil system.
Just take your shop vac to it and crank the engine over to make sure you have all the debris removed.
DO NOT USE…Teflon TAPE! (restricts electrical ground) Use high-temp Teflon *PASTE*!
On the 40mm & 50mm freeze plugs…….smack one side of the plug with chisel. This will angle the plug and it could fall inside the engine.
Grasp the side of the freeze plug with a pair of channel-locks and drag it out.
They can look brand new on the outside…but trouble is waiting to happen if you don’t replace them now!!
Although this engine had clean cooling passages (no rust) the freeze plugs were still crusty.
Drill a 1/8 hole and insert a #8 sheet metal screw.
Now the plug may have fallen inside the block, but you can maneuver the block to get a grip on the screw and then pry out.
Be careful when you drill, you don’t want to drill thru the cylinder wall.
Then knock the plug into the block by striking the side of the plug. Your screw should already be in place here.
SAND…the hole so it’s CLEAN. Select a socket of proper size. I like the Aviation sealer. Use a very small amount. Dab-it in the hole or on the freeze plug.
Note the piston oil squirter holes.
Note the squirters are facing left and right.
Torque to 22-24 foot-pounds.
There is a spring loaded piston inside the bolt. The squirters begin to pump oil above 30-35 psi of oil pressure.
You can see piston inside of bolt.
Dowel pin aligns it…use a paper clip to make sure the squirter is clean.
If your engine has spun a bearing…..sometimes it can take awhile to clean out the micro-chaff.
These main bearings suggest the motor was run for awhile with a spun bearing.
These are the rod bearings from same engine. #2 rod is missing….it was ground to dust and was in the bottom of the oil pan.
Mark all the bearings as you remove them for reference later.
These 88 OE rod bearings are black and badly worn. There was a recall on them.
These 86 bearings look about average and don’t show much wear. We can use these bearings to give us some clearance numbers.
There is no sense trying to save these dowels. A little heat helps the channel-locks remove them. Pioneer also makes replacements. PC-209 Mitsu MS471111
The OE gaskets are tough to remove. Take your time and don’t GOUGE the surfaces.
Once you have removed all the “hardware” and gaskets from the block…pressure wash it.
Sure, the machine shop will vat clean the block. But if you want to “blue-print” the engine yourself, clean it now because you have more work to do before it goes to the machine shop.
You should have a “rebuild list” going.
Write down all these numbers. Never rely on your computer to store them.
Dowel pins are for the rear main oil seal adapter if needed. Not pictured:
Pressure Plate dowel pins MD020260 and new Pressure Plate bolts MF241251.
Use bore brushes on the the main threads and the cylinder head threads. Gun shops have a great selection. Don’t chase these holes unless you can’t screw in a bolt with your hand ALL THE WAY.
Chasing will slightly open up the threads!
A piece of chaff got into this main bolt thread causing the bolt to try to lock up. This will throw the torque setting right out the window.
This is probably where the metal came from. This is another reason you put oil under the heads of bolts when you torque them.
If you try to force the bolt……..then you’ll damage the threads. Try a WIRE bore brush first.
These files can remove a problem area on the the threads.
NEVER-EVER USE “MOLY GREASE” on MAIN bolts or HEAD bolts/studs!!
Those “instructions” are WRONG…ARP! They *WILL* BACK-OUT!!
These are called “bottoming taps”. Note they are not pointed on the end to chase the threads as deep as possible.
If you need to, chase the bolt threads but use lube.
Only chase far enough to repair the damaged threads.
This main thread needed chased.
Chase ALL holes on front of block. Then squirt carb cleaner into holes and blow compressed air into them to clean them out.
ALWAYS clean the bottom tap after each hole is chased. Broken small bolts are not uncommon on the front of this block.
NEVER LOC-TITE ANY BOLT UP FRONT! Also chase oil pan threads.
This is the oil feed to main bearings. Note it comes from the main oil galley it also feeds the squirters.
This 88 crank was about to eat a bearing. That is bearing material you see on the crank.
This is the crank that spun #2 rod bearing. “I turned it off right away”. Sure you did.
Inspect the rear main oil seal area, marked with the red “X”. They will usually be ok with a polish. If really worn..they can be welded. Crank on right was polished.
These engines are balanced from the factory. Note the different locations of the drill holes to balance the cranks. All these cranks were checked for balance and were all perfect.
This is called the FILLET area of the crank. (small radius between ‘pin’ and ‘thrust’ area.
The main bearing oil holes are factory “cross-drilled”. Combined with a “grooved main bearing” they oil a full 360 degrees of rotation.
The rods are oiled by another passage that intersects with the “cross drill” so the rods also oil a full 360.
OK…back-to-da-block….and an OPTION to explore.
First….you install the BSEK “plug”.
Then you install a freeze plug…..
…..to SEAL-OFF the T-CHAIN HOUSING!
This is about DUMPING-OFF EXCESS WEIGHT!
If you have removed the “SILENT SHAFTS” (what are known as balance shafts) and you wanna dump-off more WEIGHT…(HP to weight is what makes your car faster )
This is a step-ta-step way for *YOU* to remove EXCESS BLOCK WEIGHT! ]
Lets start with removing something EASY…so you get a TASTE of *YOUR* ABILITIES!
You will need a HIGH-SPEED DIE GRINDER….and few NEW METAL CUTTING WHEELS, a CHISEL and a HAMMER.
Note the ROUGH SURFACE vs. CUT-OFF WHEEL MARKS. The rough surface is WHERE it FRACTURED.
Nope…you DO NOT NEED to cut ALL the way THRU a piece of CAST IRON,
but if YOU CAN…DO SO!
I cut DEEP into the cast iron…but NOT all the way thru it. A smack with the MALLET…and it FRACTURED the cast iron and it fell off.
I used a 36 grit grinder disc to make it look better.
It LOOKS like 3 parts (one is atop of another #3 & #4) but #4 will take MORE PATIENTS! That is the BS bearing support so the casting is THICKER!
BELOW….the “silent shaft” chamber are a couple of small cast parts that are in the way to REMOVE…the 4 LARGER PARTS. Yep…ONE STEP AT A TIME….PLEASE. Remove those two smaller parts then PROCEED…1 thru 4…IN THAT EXACT ORDER OF REMOVAL….AFTER….AFTER you made ALL the cuts.
You’re gonna need to make a few more cuts DEEPER to remove part #4….AFTER parts 1-3 are already removed!
The TWO small cast parts are not numbered…but those two are the first to be removed….a NUB and a THREADED “BOSS” are in the way….on the BOTTOM of the chamber.
The SILVER marks stands-out against BLACK…RED is used cause it stands-out against a MACHINED SURFACE.
Note the NUB..(far left-upper) was broken-down to TWO parts to CUT!
With a 3/16″ drill bit….you can reduce the time it takes to CUT-THRU the cast iron with a METAL CUTTING WHEEL. Yes…you still use BOTH TOOLS to speed this along. It’s more about KNOWING where the casting is THICKER!
Yes…there are TWO oil-drain-back-holes to be plugged!
They don’t need to be VENTS!!
They don’t need to be attached to the PVC!!
There is NO WELDING INVOLVED!!
Is there MORE DEAD-WEIGHT DOWN THERE TO BE DEALT WITH?
This particular block weight fell by over 12 lbs!
Look DOWN the cylinder….NOTE the fine line. That is the BOTTOM of the sleeve.
You can’t see the FINE LINE at the top…because the surface was machined
for a DIFFERANT reason.
Machining the *DECK* is not necessary just because a sleeve was installed.
We were just TESTING a brand new, high-dollar machine…and only removed .002″….and *ALL* of our 2.6L blocks wre already FLAWLESS. *ALL* meaning 10!
Again…this 2.6L HIGH NICKLE BLOCK…AIN’T GONNA WARP!
When a sleeve is installed….usually you need to CHAMFER the red area… to ALLOW PISTON RING INSERTION..without damaging the rings. Between the FINE LINE…and the CHAMFER…and if that area was POWER-WIRE-BRUSHED…you should be able to VERIFY that a SLEEVE was installed….cause SOMEBODY PAID FOR IT.
The “02” scribe next to “G54B”….IDs *ALL* the parts as coming from the SAME ENGINE…..whether it’s TRASH or not. CYAAAAAAA!
Yes….I straight-edge the parts….A BUNCH….and I have *NOT* FOUND ONE…..that needed DECK MACHINED!!!
Pistons & rings are covered here: Wiseco FORGED! .004″ clearance!
**Insert ENGINE RODS/PISTONS/RINGS Page**
DAMN-IT….. there are some MEASUREMENTS we want to know UP-FRONT! Cast pistons: .0012″ to .002″
How PERFECT are the OEM bores? From the bottom…
….to the top, NO WEAR AT ALL! Tuff lil’ blocks they are!
Straight-edge, with a TEMPED STRAIGHT-EDGE TOOL too find ANY DISTURBED SURFACE!
However, I have NOT found one failed surface on 10 blocks.
Prepping your block for assembly. KNOW THIS: Plenty of guys have stated finding BROKEN-OFF bolts in these holes. Better check em’ out….FIRST!
And the VERY MOST IMPORTANT THREAD……that you’ll want tapped! Taps
are NOT EXPENSIVE! 6mm, 8mm, 10mm x 1.25 pitch! This is the MAIN engine ground. Get RID of the RUST…..and NO PAINT on the surface!
Often…you’ll need to HEAT the block to remove this pipe-plug.
re-tap with 1/8npt 27 pitch. Very common size to install aftermarket
senders or go with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
More here, http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/sensorssenders-adapters/
It would be MOST FOOLISH….to run your SILENT SHAFTS AGAIN,
If you didn’t have a machine shop replace those WORN-OUT BEARINGS!
If you’re running a BSEK…install the PLUG now!
Going with a performance build? You might wanna remove *ALL* SHARP EDGES!
Follow with a hunk of 220 grit to smooth them out!
LOOK!……for LOOSE casting-flash! Hmmmm, NO PAINT LEFT!
POKE…at it with a screwdriver or like……but get rid of it!
Yes, Mitsu spray-painted a coat of BLACK inside the block. They did NOT cover *ALL* surfaces…..and some VATS removed that coat of paint! NO GOOD! A GOOD paint-job helps keep the oil MORE CLEAR/CLEAN!
Usually…one coat of Rustoleum is fine, but I noticed what I had missed.
Brush-on POR 15 is some BAD-ass enamel too. But the BROWN Rust-Oleum stands-out better to find LOOSE CASTING FLASH! DO NOT…paint it on to the MACHINED AREAS!
The END-RESULT is strictly up to YOU! Note ALL CHAMFERING of square corners…even on the MAIN CAPS!
Did you need to replace the DOWEL BUSHINGS? Better do it NOW! Hope you BLEW-OUT the block, and re-install this oil passage pipe-plug!
CHECK-IT! Did you drive it in SQUARE? This is WHAT aligns your TRANSMISSION!
With a 1/2″ drive breaker-bar & 14mm socket (use heat if you must)
Remove & clean this pipe plug. Make it EASY on yourself to DUMP
ALL THE COOLANT!
Back on the engine stand…….BLOW IT CLEAN!
Get your parts, lubes & tools together for final assembly. 88 & 89 cranks came with a dowel pin. If you have UPGRADED your flywheel, to a 240mm disc, it will have the hole in it. DO NOT OVER-DRIVE IT! It needs to stick-out .240″
MAKE SURE YOUR SQUIRTERS ARE FLUSHED CLEAN!
Installing the OIL SQUIRTERS. There is a LEFT & RIGHT (2 each)
The need to POINT at the center of the bore……to cool the piston bottom.
Torque them to 25ft.lbs.
FEEL….all the bearing surfaces. Needs to be BUR-FREE!
Note! ALL main bearing kits are NOT the same. Some has HOLES on only ONE-HALF, known as the “UPPER” bearing….BLOCK HALF!
Align the LOCKING-LIP flush with the block….
…..now smoothly push-down the other side. Main & rod clearance w/new bearings & NO OIL. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK DRY!
Your MAIN BEARING tolerance is: .0008″ to .0018″
Your ROD BEARING tolerance is: .0008″ to .0020″
Above:THIS crank was machined a lil’ too much…beyond .010″
This clearance is nearly .003″! This could create LOW OIL PRESSURE!
Use alcohol to remove the left-overs, please!
Crankshaft ENDPLAY must be: .002″ to .007″ (closer to .002″ the better)
Keeping “Silent Shafts”…or “BALANCE SHAFTS” as most guys refer to them. Should you? The only way you can….is IF you replace there BEARINGS! On this 88 A/T, 113K miles, Very clean, NOT abused car…I could HEAR/FEEL a vibration just below the turbo. Seemed…it was COMING from the turbo. That turbo was PROFESSIONALLY rebuilt by a REPUTABLE turbo shop just before. (turbo oil seal was leaking and burned oil just idling)
We tore-down the engine…..and THIS is what we found. This passanger-side, Balance-shaft, rear bearing SPUN inside the bearing-boss! YOU NEED TO….inspect those bearings BEFORE you proceed! That would be nearly IMPOSSIBLE if you don’t remove the engine.
Let’s back-page a lil’. True, some guys DO complain about feeling, EXCESSIVE vibration after they install a BSEK. However, when *ALL* the TRUTH rolls-out…. you IGNORED some others “DO THIS RIGHT” instructions. Mitsu, don’t use the word “MOTOR MOUNTS”. Is it “Insulators”? or “Isolators”? You never replaced all 3? tisk, tisk, tisk, Your flywheel weighed about 34lbs…..FOR A REASON. Your OEM, rubber-insulated SHIFTER is often replaced with a aftermarket MECHANICAL one. The “silent shafts” CANCEL the TRUMP… of 4 pistons cycling. (secondary harmonics ) When one……installs LIGHTENED, forged pistons, could this COMPOUND the SCENARIO? And…”HARMONIC DAMPERS” were not used until the 86 models? Do you still have one? Or did you “UPGRADE” to a ALUMINUM pulley, instead?
My condolences to those that had more money…..than comprehension.
However, I didn’t notice hardly ANY vibration when I installed a BSEK.
GOOBER! Your hands are TOO dirty to touch a PQ engine!
Ahhhh………you REALLY, REALLY want some EXPERIENCED HANDS to replace these 10,0000 rpm bearings. Especially on the passenger-side…cause BRUTE MUSCLE is ALL that controls how TRUE, you just drove-in a new bearing, CAUSE THERE AIN’T NO ROUND HOLE UP-FRONT TO USE THE NYLON, TAPERED ALIGNMENT GUIDE.
OK…back-to lowering in the crankshaft….GENTILLY, using the BEST ASSEMBLY LUBE!
Smirl a lil’ lube on the SIDES on the #3…the TRUST bearing, block-side & main cap bearing.
Just a FEW DROPS of engine oil…under the head of the bolt and on the threads
so you get a ACCURATE TORQUE READING! NOTE! The main caps are NUMBERED with a ARROW pointing to the FRONT of the engine.
I give em’ a lil’ KISS…to drive em’ home.
Then I’ll cheat a lil’….and just SNUG-DOWN all 10 main bolts.
The FINAL torque is 55-61 ft.lbs. But I’ll step-up torque, 20 lbs. first….then 40 lbs. next….then 61ft. lbs. finally. SMOOTH…..CONSISTENT MOVEMENT of the TORQUE WRENCH, please.
Once the crank is torqued-in…I’m gonna remove it from the engine stand. Have a HELPER assist you here.
Replacing the rear main seal. It’s easy enough to drive-out the old seal…but some replacements requires a lil’ PRESS action. I’ve built a special driver, with two faces, one to remove & one to install.
It has a RETENTION device and the HOLE should be at 6 o’clock position.
Only a FINGER-PRESS is required.
A small amount of lube, both inside & outside of the seal, will EASE the necessary install pressure…..and PRE-LUBE the WEAR FACE!
Some will FIT tighter than others. DO NOT FUBAR THIS SEAL!
Place the gasket on the back of the block. Mitsu didn’t use ANY sealant…but if you use SILICONE, use just a finger-smirl of it. We don’t want EXCESS SILICONE to fall into the OIL SUMP! CAUSE IT WILL!
DRAW-DOWN the bolts EVENLY! Use a little COMMON SENSE HERE! TIGHT….but don’t break em’!
Return the engine back to the engine stand with a helper. It’s not heavy.
Go-ahead and SPIN the crank. It SHOULD turn nice & smoothly. The thick lube will be felt. Leave the #1 crank journal at BDC, (bottom-dead-center) We’ll install piston #1 & #4.
Take-a-break…..and install the SIDE cover with 3 new o-rings that comes with the gasket kit. The LARGER on could be GLUED into position.
You know the deal…..get your DUCKS-IN-A-ROW for piston install.
Which PISTONS should I use? Read a lil’ here:
**Insert ENGINE RODS/PISTONS/RINGS Page**
EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS…of PRE-LUBING PARTS, can create some FUGLY results! It is NOT necessary to EVER dip parts into oil! *ALL* gasket surfaces needs to be OIL FREE, when the time comes.
Checking piston rings END GAPS.
Top ring, .012″-.018″ Second ring, .010″-.016″ Oil side rails, .012″-.032″
SQUARING-UP…a piston ring.
Proper position of END GAPS. Many pistons have a ARROW to indicate the FRONT of a piston. The numbers & letters on the ROD indicates FRONT too.
Piston #1, I am gonna position the OIL RING SPACER directly over the FRONT of the wrist pin.
I am gonna SPIRAL-IN the lower oil ring, bout 45* off-set, in a CLOCK-WISE fashion.
TOP…oil ring, 45* off-set, but SPIRAL-IN COUNTER CLOCK-WISE.
SPACE…the top & second ring 180* from each other over the DEEPEST, SKIRT AREA!
BETTER…to support the piston (lightly) and use the RIGHT EXPANSION TOOL!
NOTE…the piston rod OILING HOLE is ALIGNED! This hole will OIL…the LOAD-SIDE of the piston & it’s cylinder, wall area!
Place the ROD CAPS like so…PRE-LUBE the bearing like so… This will prevent the BEARING from popping-out when you drive-in the pistons.
NO…….not like that!
Marked the rear of piston #1 to show NO GAPS are exposed to use this TYPE of RING COMPRESSOR!
WD-40 the rings, the piston and the cylinder wall and the compressor so
the INSTALL will have a SLICK SURFACE.
A small amount will work just fine! In the old days, I’d drip them into engine oil. That is just creating a HUGE, OIL MESS, that will need removed, later so you don’t BLOW HEAD GASKETS!
This type of ring compressor is marked…”BOTTOM”!
That compressor RING… needs to be FLUSH, all the way around! Note the SILVER ARROWS!
As you compress the rings…OBSERVE thru the opening that:
A. there was no BINDING!
B. the piston is TRUE in the bore & compressor ring.
C. the rings appear to have closed COMPLETELY!
D. the compressor ring is TOUCHING the block…all the way around!
Sometimes…all it takes is a SERIOUS PUSH, but a LIGHT TAPPING maybe required if the compressor tool is a lil’ too tight.
If it FEELS you just ran-into something SOLID… Remove & re-set the compressor tool again!
#1 & #4 crank journals should be at the BOTTOM of the cranks throw! That would be #1 at BDC! (BOTTOM DEAD CENTER!) We DO NOT WANT…the rod to come into contact with ANYTHING as we drive them in! USE GRAVITY!
Now…FLIP the block over. The ROD BOLT CAPS…helped it to GUIDE the rod,
right over the journal, and NO METAL-TO-METAL CONTACT HAPPENED!
You know the deal… one drop of oil on the threads and a little that is gonna be UNDER the nut so TORQUING NUMBERS will be ACCURATE!
Just SNUG-EM’ down for now….EQUALLY! BECAUSE…you MARKED each cap with it’s position number, and you DOUBLED CHECKED the LOCKING LIPS (of the rod bearings) are on the SAME SIDE, you PUT-IT-BACK-TOGETHER-PROPERLY!
ROTATE…the crank a few times. You should FEEL…NO BINDING! Leave journals #2 & #3 at the BOTTOM of their stroke…and install #2 & #3!
Use your 1/2″ ratchet and rotate the crank a few times. It SHOULD feel smooth & CONSISTENT as you rotate it. If you feel a TIGHT SPOT… maybe you put a CAP-ON BACKWARDS?!
Check “SIDE CLEARANCE” .0039″ to .0098″ limit .016″
WE DO NOT WANT….. ANY OIL/LUBE LEFT-BEHIND on
*ANY* GASKET SURFACE THIS *WILL* CREATE A LEAK
Driving-in new dowel bushings to align the head…..X2
The LH “Silent Shaft” has this front bearing, that won’t be used again. The GOLD, grade 7 is just a lil’ to long. SHIM IT…with TWO, 6mm LOCK WASHERS to make it shorter…or cut-it off!
If you are running a BSEK…..some have said they were “short of a bolt to hold-down the t-chain guides.” Not EXACTLY true…….but special bolt “A” and it’s lock washer is REMOVED to run a BSEK.
OK….install the lil’ “shelf”.
With #1 piston at TDC (top dead center) NOTE…the duel keyways are
at 3 o’clock….and the CAMSHAFT TIMING MARK is ONE TOOTH BELOW IT
The crank sprocket should slide-on very easily! Remove it….now.
With the t-chain and BOTH sprokets ALIGNED with the “PLATED LINKS”
slide it on to the CRANK as a ASSEMBLY!
YOU CAN……install the LEFT & RIGHT CHAIN GUIDES FIRST….(the way I do it)
of AFTER you install the T-chain.
You don’t NEED a TORQUE WRENCH……but you’d better have a lil’ COMMON SENSE!
PRIMING….your OIL PUMP! You *WILL* be sorry if you don’t do it!
DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL! IT WILL RUN-AWAY FROM THE GEARS!
MUCH MORE INFO………here:**Insert OIL PUMPS & OIL PASSAGES page**
“I use Vasoline……I use White Lithium….” Why? Can’t you AFFORD $8 for Clevite 77 BEARING GUARD? Enough to build SEVERAL engines…
KNOW…..your SMALL PARTS and what they do for you!
Some guys have LOST these parts…not even KNOWING they were there!
A semi-tight PINCH-FIT they are. Without that *KEYWAY*…… you ain’t making OIL PRESSURE! DUH!
TEST IT…the DRIVE SPROCKET should slide-on very easily. But…keep your EYES on that keyway! It COULD fall-out! The gear can go-on in either direction! Place it so the TEETH are closer to the oil pump housing!! VERY IMPORTANT!!
DETAILS…..ATTENTION TO DETAIL! There is PLENTY you should know!
You get the QUALITY of parts you pay for! Most of you weren’t even born, yet when THIS was of issue.
CAUTION! If this ROLL PIN is NOT at the proper DEPTH……
Place the new cam dowel pin .280″…….toward the cam.
The FSM TORQUE is: 50 fricking, ft./lbs! Guys would use BLUE Loctite case they can’t handle that. I DO NOT RECOMMEND you use Loctite! Taking it apart again would be a royal PITA!
Once ONE bolt is torqued, you can hold-it with a 14mm wrench, after you install the oil pump, TORQUE THE OTHER!
No vice? Use a wrench!
Install the oil pump WITHOUT GASKET…..so we can make a couple of changes *IF* necessary WITHOUT destroying the gasket. Top 4 bolts only!
Make sure you have the TSB, heavy-duty replacement parts, here! DO NOT DOUBLE RUBBER SHEET…unless the head or block was machined excessively!!
The EXTENTION of the T-chain tensioner means NOTHING YET….cause there is NO HEAD on this engine.
MEASURING here is important!
1. Head gasket installed. (a used, clean one is fine)
2. Install head with 4 head bolts & just snug-them
3. Install t-chain & their guides
4. Measure this distance!!!
A rubber sheet is .083″ thick. FORCING a 2nd sheet would PRELOAD the tension
and the TENSIONER WOULD SELF-DESTRUCT a few thousand miles down-da-road!!!
WHAT…cylinder head do you plan to use? NEW? or “REBUILT” and was it MACHINED?
These two heads have never been MACHINED.
When you machine a head:
A. it RETARDS the camshaft!
B. it increases the compression ratio
C. it makes the t-chain LOOSER! (prone to make the chain jump)
Select the head gasket you will use. We need it to SHIM the head back to where it should be to TEST THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER LENGTH! Yes…..you could use a USED head gasket to do this.
I understand that some people have come-acrossed, CRACKS in the 2.6L block.
Sorry, but we can’t provide a pic of a CRACK…. cause we, TO DATE, have never seen that before.
However, FAILURE TO WINTERIZE A ENGINE…FREEZE-CRACKING
COULD OCCUR, ANYWHERE!
ARP stopped providing MOLY GREASE, 2 years ago! 2 drops of 30w (also suggested by ARP) is the ticket… for our VIBRATING, 2.6, HIGH NODULAR blocks!