EXHAUST SYSTEM & MANIFOLDS

Why…. Rolling Eyes are many exhaust manifolds WARPED at the #4 pipe? Could it be…that #4 A/F ratio is LEAN FROM FAILURE of this hose? That nipple gets hot as hell…..COOKS the INTERIOR of that hose = VACUUM LEAK! Shocked
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Don’t do this….a HALF-ASSED JOB of gutting a ‘CAT’. Rolling Eyes It’ll slowly plug the secondary ‘CAT’ or a MUFFLER! Shocked
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That SS mesh that surrounds the ‘guts’…….YOU MUST REMOVE IT OR IT WILL PLUG YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM! Rolling Eyes

Use Dorman 555-015 freeze plug to block the EGR port on downpipe. Use two.

The “hot-tip”……Toyota 10mm Studs and nuts.  Nuts 90179-10010 Studs 90170-10199

Use a 5/16 “transfer-punch” to align the head with the mill head.

Drill out to 13/32.

Tap to 10mm X 1.25 pitch

FSM says: The torque on the nuts, 10mm = 36-51ft. lbs.
Turbo to exhaust manifold & front cat or down pipe.
This is a Marnel “AMC” head. I was able to tap it to 10mm using just my hand on the chuck. I wouldn’t call it very hard material. Rolling Eyes

Stock…8mm nuts: FSM says: Torque to 11-14 ft. lbs.

I would use, RED, HIGH TEMP LOCTITE to replace the studs! Cool

Gold stud is the Marnel stud. Black stud (which provides a few more threads into the head) Napa stud.

Note I only changed the TOP ROW to 10mm studs……..cause that’s where the LOAD is carried.

A system should have a SS EXPANSION/FLEX JOINT!
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You hang/suspend your rear exhaust system with it’s own suspension parts (rubber o-rings)…..hang your down-pipe…then close together with the SS flex-joint. Wink

Remember…your engine is gonna flex under exceleration! You DO NOT WANT the entire exhaust system to……RIDE ALONG WITH THE MOVEMENT! That is PURE-HELL on the exhaust manifold studs!

Also…. 2.5″ x 10 feet ALUMINIZED EXHAUST PIPE is only about $30 from Carquest. Cutting it….and bending it at a exhaust shop should not be THAT expensive. Wink NEGOTIATE THE DEAL!

Or at least check-out the competition for another application.

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When building or buying a custom exhaust down-pipe…understand the THICKNESS of the mounting flange SHOULD BE thick enough to NOT BEND under the HIGH HEAT it sustains. I recommend 1/2″ flanges! Wink

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Welding nuts to the down-pipe allows a ground wire and a heat shield attached direct to the down-pipe. Idea Arrow Bosch O2
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Having the EXPANSION JOINT removes the weight of the exhaust system pulling on the turbo…AND THE HEAD EXHAUST STUDS! They should incorporated by ANY supplier of a decent down-pipe or complete exhaust system. Rolling Eyes

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SS braided…. Wink

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High quailty…SS braided…10.5″ overall length…7″ usable length (slides over)…2 1/2″ pipe size. $75 shipped (have 3″ too) Wink

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In the past, my exhaust pal welded a lil’ pipe to the down-pipe and a “Cherrybomb”. Lacking the expansion joint (out of stock)…within 100 miles the manifold nuts BACKED-OFF making it leak. Shocked

You build the exhaust system SUPPORTED CORRECTLY via rubber donuts…THEN close the gap via the expansion joint. Nuff said?
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Easy enough to find them….and not expensive.

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If you WANT ENDURANCE from your manifold & turbocharger, installing a
PYROMETER to monitor the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) is the best idea to have that gauge.

The Mitsu factory OEM manifold is thick enough to drill & tap for the bung to be installed there.

Clic this address to view the exhaust manifolds & turbos! Wink

http://forcedairresearch.tripod.com
Makes QUALITY MANIFOLDS to run T3/T4 turbos! Wink

Turbonetics Starion manifold.
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stock ported manifold -vs- T3 modded stock manifold.
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Treadstone manifold
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installed
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Modified stock manifold with T3 flange and external wastegate.
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Starquest without INTERCOOLERS sent the boost signal to the WASTEGATE directly from the compressor housing.
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On INTERCOOLED models the boost pressure signal came from the OVCP. (over valve cover pipe)
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Some tips on removing the OEM Turbocharger. Yes…..you can BEND PARTS if you don’t know these TIPS!
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With a 21mm socket & breaker-bar…..and a #1 flat-blade screwdriver to prevent it from ROTATING the FITTING…..
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…..and bending-da-shit outta it, Rolling Eyes This is merely a TEST to see if you have the NECESSARY TOOLS!

OK….that worked and didn’t bend that water hose so let’s BACK-UP a lil.
Using a 1 3/16″ or 30mm open-ended wrench…remove the nut from the air pipe.
On the intake manifold remove a 12mm bolt to remove the pipe altogether.
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Now remove the two 12mm nuts to remove the O2 sensor. Now you can unbolt the CAT CONVERTOR.

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Hold the ADAPTER NUT with a 19mm opened-end wrench and use a
14mm FLARE NUT WRENCH to remove the nut.

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I have seen MANY of these oil pipes DESTROYED…..TWISTED all-ta-hell
from using the TWO WRENCHES METHOD!

Use the same, 2 wrenches method below…..cept the ADAPTER is
17mm….but use the 14mm flare wrench again.
THE ADAPTERS ARE NOT TO MOVE AT ALL!!
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Ya see….. Rolling Eyes no BENT STEEL LINES AT ALL!
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Now remove this bracket bolt.
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This NOW…..gives you the ROOM to remove the INNER BANJO BOLT
but *ALSO* us the screwdriver to prevent the steel pipe from ROTATING!! Rolling Eyes
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It’s all that CRAP on the threads from not flushing the cooling system every 24 months that will CHALLENGE you! It also BLOCKS your coolant flow too!
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**Insert COOLING SYSTEM/COOLING FANS & JUMPER WIRE Page**

If it feels that you are about to break the banjo bolts….or stripe the threads…. Rolling Eyes leave the steel cooling lines attached, put some 3/8″ hose on them to extend them….and fill it with CLR to DESOLVE THAT CRUSTY shit! Wink
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Remove the heat shields and BAG the bolts & mark them. (no pic)

Now remove the OIL EXIT HOSE. 10mm.
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This gives some room to remove the TOP nuts of the the turbo.
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14mm wrench…a REDUCED SIZE HEX for a 10mm stud size! Rolling Eyes
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NUT BUSTER RECOMMENDED!!

NO SURPRIZE……to see the manifold is cracked around pipe #1.
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Also no surprize to see that pipe #4 is WARPED allowing a exhaust leak there too!
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Also no surprize to see some STUDS snap-off! Rolling Eyes
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