Why…. are many exhaust manifolds WARPED at the #4 pipe? Could it be…that #4 A/F ratio is LEAN FROM FAILURE of this hose? That nipple gets hot as hell…..COOKS the INTERIOR of that hose = VACUUM LEAK!
Don’t do this….a HALF-ASSED JOB of gutting a ‘CAT’. It’ll slowly plug the secondary ‘CAT’ or a MUFFLER!
That SS mesh that surrounds the ‘guts’…….YOU MUST REMOVE IT OR IT WILL PLUG YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM!
Use Dorman 555-015 freeze plug to block the EGR port on downpipe. Use two.
The “hot-tip”……Toyota 10mm Studs and nuts. Nuts 90179-10010 Studs 90170-10199
Use a 5/16 “transfer-punch” to align the head with the mill head.
Drill out to 13/32.
Tap to 10mm X 1.25 pitch
FSM says: The torque on the nuts, 10mm = 36-51ft. lbs.
Turbo to exhaust manifold & front cat or down pipe.
This is a Marnel “AMC” head. I was able to tap it to 10mm using just my hand on the chuck. I wouldn’t call it very hard material.
Stock…8mm nuts: FSM says: Torque to 11-14 ft. lbs.
I would use, RED, HIGH TEMP LOCTITE to replace the studs!
Gold stud is the Marnel stud. Black stud (which provides a few more threads into the head) Napa stud.
Note I only changed the TOP ROW to 10mm studs……..cause that’s where the LOAD is carried.
A system should have a SS EXPANSION/FLEX JOINT!
You hang/suspend your rear exhaust system with it’s own suspension parts (rubber o-rings)…..hang your down-pipe…then close together with the SS flex-joint.
Remember…your engine is gonna flex under exceleration! You DO NOT WANT the entire exhaust system to……RIDE ALONG WITH THE MOVEMENT! That is PURE-HELL on the exhaust manifold studs!
Also…. 2.5″ x 10 feet ALUMINIZED EXHAUST PIPE is only about $30 from Carquest. Cutting it….and bending it at a exhaust shop should not be THAT expensive. NEGOTIATE THE DEAL!
Or at least check-out the competition for another application.
When building or buying a custom exhaust down-pipe…understand the THICKNESS of the mounting flange SHOULD BE thick enough to NOT BEND under the HIGH HEAT it sustains. I recommend 1/2″ flanges!
Welding nuts to the down-pipe allows a ground wire and a heat shield attached direct to the down-pipe. Bosch O2
Having the EXPANSION JOINT removes the weight of the exhaust system pulling on the turbo…AND THE HEAD EXHAUST STUDS! They should incorporated by ANY supplier of a decent down-pipe or complete exhaust system.
High quailty…SS braided…10.5″ overall length…7″ usable length (slides over)…2 1/2″ pipe size. $75 shipped (have 3″ too)
In the past, my exhaust pal welded a lil’ pipe to the down-pipe and a “Cherrybomb”. Lacking the expansion joint (out of stock)…within 100 miles the manifold nuts BACKED-OFF making it leak.
You build the exhaust system SUPPORTED CORRECTLY via rubber donuts…THEN close the gap via the expansion joint. Nuff said?
Easy enough to find them….and not expensive.
If you WANT ENDURANCE from your manifold & turbocharger, installing a
PYROMETER to monitor the EGT (exhaust gas temperature) is the best idea to have that gauge.
The Mitsu factory OEM manifold is thick enough to drill & tap for the bung to be installed there.
Clic this address to view the exhaust manifolds & turbos!
Makes QUALITY MANIFOLDS to run T3/T4 turbos!
Turbonetics Starion manifold.
stock ported manifold -vs- T3 modded stock manifold.
Modified stock manifold with T3 flange and external wastegate.
Starquest without INTERCOOLERS sent the boost signal to the WASTEGATE directly from the compressor housing.
On INTERCOOLED models the boost pressure signal came from the OVCP. (over valve cover pipe)
Some tips on removing the OEM Turbocharger. Yes…..you can BEND PARTS if you don’t know these TIPS!
With a 21mm socket & breaker-bar…..and a #1 flat-blade screwdriver to prevent it from ROTATING the FITTING…..
…..and bending-da-shit outta it, This is merely a TEST to see if you have the NECESSARY TOOLS!
OK….that worked and didn’t bend that water hose so let’s BACK-UP a lil.
Using a 1 3/16″ or 30mm open-ended wrench…remove the nut from the air pipe.
On the intake manifold remove a 12mm bolt to remove the pipe altogether.
Now remove the two 12mm nuts to remove the O2 sensor. Now you can unbolt the CAT CONVERTOR.
Hold the ADAPTER NUT with a 19mm opened-end wrench and use a
14mm FLARE NUT WRENCH to remove the nut.
I have seen MANY of these oil pipes DESTROYED…..TWISTED all-ta-hell
from using the TWO WRENCHES METHOD!
Use the same, 2 wrenches method below…..cept the ADAPTER is
17mm….but use the 14mm flare wrench again.
THE ADAPTERS ARE NOT TO MOVE AT ALL!!
Ya see….. no BENT STEEL LINES AT ALL!
Now remove this bracket bolt.
This NOW…..gives you the ROOM to remove the INNER BANJO BOLT
but *ALSO* us the screwdriver to prevent the steel pipe from ROTATING!!
It’s all that CRAP on the threads from not flushing the cooling system every 24 months that will CHALLENGE you! It also BLOCKS your coolant flow too!
**Insert COOLING SYSTEM/COOLING FANS & JUMPER WIRE Page**
If it feels that you are about to break the banjo bolts….or stripe the threads…. leave the steel cooling lines attached, put some 3/8″ hose on them to extend them….and fill it with CLR to DESOLVE THAT CRUSTY shit!
Remove the heat shields and BAG the bolts & mark them. (no pic)
Now remove the OIL EXIT HOSE. 10mm.
This gives some room to remove the TOP nuts of the the turbo.
14mm wrench…a REDUCED SIZE HEX for a 10mm stud size!
NUT BUSTER RECOMMENDED!!
NO SURPRIZE……to see the manifold is cracked around pipe #1.
Also no surprize to see that pipe #4 is WARPED allowing a exhaust leak there too!
Also no surprize to see some STUDS snap-off!