“My HLs pop-up but don’t illuminate.”
To the right of your cluster…which position is the switch that illustrates
**link to BRAKE LIGHT FAILURE/ HAZARD SWITCH REPAIR**
The PRIMARY FUNCTION of a HL switch & Hazard switch is to send a GROUND to several RELAYS…at the same time.
Rookies, want it placed on a DEFECTIVE RELAY… If you can not send a CLEAN GROUND SIGNAL to a RELAY…it ain’t gonna CLOSE! (engage)
How does this help you? Replacing a GOOD RELAY is a waste of time, effort & $$.
A new, HL SWITCH…bout $150+ that will ALSO have a SHORT SHELF LIFE.
We “retire” aircraft in Tucson Arizona for a damn good reason…then use them again in a few hours of “PRE-FLIGHT.”
I guess I should add some text to this topic because I came across a situation where I had to go back-into a HL switch twice.
“I got no BRAKE LIGHTS! Only the spoiler light!”
Rebuild the “Hazard” switch! (been there, done that )
Turn the light receptacle to the left and remove it from the board.
Snip the zip tie.
Using a bent pic tool…….carefully bend all 5 tabs back just far enough to remove the board. (there’s a tab mid-way)
No, they won’t be all black and carbon tracked like the P/W switches. They don’t carry that many amps. But the copper is surface corroded just enough to make the headlights not perform like they should.
Here’s the problem with the switches: The grease used when this switch was assembled drys up and performs more like GLUE than grease.
Because this grease is also on the SPRINGS…..which happen to LOAD the two electrical contacts together….the springs won’t offer the load they should. Remove the 3 switch contacts and CLEAN ALL OF THE SPRINGS of ALL the old grease.
A sticky spring is NOT GOOD. Use terminal cleaner, degreaser, Acetone or Naptha to remove ALL the old grease from ALL the parts!!
Using Q-tips, get rid of ALL the old grease. I’m going to use “TERMINAL GREASE” as a replacement.
But after running some test on “TERMINAL GREASE” I won’t be using it again. Seems that about 95-100* it wants to turn into a LIQUID. You bet your turbo it gets that hot in the hood of your dash.
Use your favorite DIELECTRIC GREASE!
Again, paper towel and even Formula 409 will remove the old grease.
However…this will NOT LEAVE-BEHIND a “film”!
2000 grit is pretty fine…so you can use 1000 or 600 or 400.
But make ALL the copper contacts shine like a new penny.
AND DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR GREASY FINGERS AFTER YOU ARE DONE! You’ll contaminate them!
Roll the hood AWAY from the windshield. Get out of the car, now LOOK at the harness connectors threw the windshield….AND HOW THEY LAY!!
Yep, you’ll wish the windshield wasn’t there.
USE BOTH HANDS TO SEPERATE THE CONNECTORS AND DO NOT BE RUFF WITH THEM!!
You’d BETTER…….rebuild the other switch too! WHY? Cause the hazard switch is known to be the REASON you have lost BRAKE LIGHTS!
Now, take it to a CLEAN BENCH AREA and proceed.
I have seen MANY of these parts all torn-ta-hell from wrecklessness!
DO NOT…..use the SCREWS to DRAW-DOWN the hood! It’s weight is enough unless a CONNECTOR is binding it!!