SENSORS/SENDERS & ADAPTERS

STOP! This is just below your battery and it REALLY NEEDS to be CLEANED of any CORROSION!!

Rolling Eyes THIS IS YOUR MAIN BODY GROUND, the ring eyelet behind it is the ECU & ISC/MPS (intake manifold) GROUND!
ALL HELL-BREAKS-LOOSE IF YOU DO NOT SERVICE GROUND #11….which CONTINUES to become GROUND #3!!
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Soaked in oil…. Rolling Eyes is not only bad for RUBBER, but it can INTERUPT a DESENT SIGNAL from a sensor. Shocked

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A SENSOR…sends a varible ground…but it NEEDS TO BE THERE FIRST! Rolling Eyes
A poor BODY/ENGINE GROUND would send false signals. Shocked
http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/battery-neggrounds-ign-coil/

Because there are MANY sensors that are COOLANT TEMP RELATED: Failure to SPOT-CHECK FAN OPERATION= DISASTER! Shocked

**Insert  COOLING SYSTEM/COOLING FANS & JUMPER WIRE page **

It’s pretty hard to get ACCURATE temp gauges (uses VARIABLE GROUND RESISTANCE sent to gauges or ECU) if you have MORE RESISTANCE from contamination and OLD AGE….you’ll send FALSE INFO! Shocked

below: a 88 5 speed. 88/89s went-to a TWIN-PIN sender on
BOTH, 5 speeds & A/T.
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You’ve got a 20 year old car…..and they are all down-wind of the battery which “weeps” battery fumes……just like the injector clips, “LOOK… BEFORE YOU LEAP!” Wink

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Replacing JUST a TERMINAL? Rolling Eyes Contaminated COPPER WIRES is gonna travel thru several inches of wire! Idea Arrow

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For the temp gauge. Single pin type $35. Two pin type $98.

Page 20 of “Introduction and Master Troubleshooting”
in the 88 Starion service manual says:

They are, (NPT) NATIONAL PIPE THREADS!(according to the FSM)
“I” say they are American pipe threads, after you chase-with a NPT tap!
YOU’LL say, they are, American pipe threads! Laughing Laughing

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Failure to read *ALL* = FUBARED THREADS!

Sender #4
Some are BPT (British) 1/8″ x28 pitch. Same as oil pressure plug. Rolling Eyes
Special Order Plugs! Not found locally!

Easy correction: (use the oil pressure plug orrrr…)
Tap-with 1/8″ x27 NPT (National) taps! Rolling Eyes

Has somebody cut-off the harness-connectors? Rolling Eyes
87s!

1. Key “on”, GROUND, suspected, YELLOW/GREEN. (you’ll have THREE)
2. Would max-out your temp gauge…ON TWO of them! (same wire, but piggy-backed, inside harness)
3. 88/89 TWIN-PIN, would be: Top=YELLOW/GREEN & bottom= YELLOW/BLUE according to Vol. 2, FSM. (Second wire is temp indicator for O.D. on A/T models & HVAC. (best to ground it, full time)
4. NO REACTION to the temp gauge?, Yellow/Green = CTS! Pin #6 @ ECU! Bottom of the “T”!

Sender #1 Water temperature gauge. NOT A PIPE THREAD. M16 x 1.5
(also has a 2 pin type on some models, but has connectors for BOTH
on 87 models, 2 pin connector tapped-off & not used on 87s)
87 Single-pin, wire color on 5 speeds= YELLOW/GREEN (according to FSM, reports to temp gauge)
88/89 Twin-pin, wire color (top of “T”)= YELLOW/BLUE (according to FSM, reports to temp gauge)

Sender #2 EGR thermovalve 3/8″ NPT pipe thread Vacuum passes-thru-it until it reaches 138*F…so the Dizzy ain’t advancing & EGR ain’t working, yet.

SENSOR #3 CTS (ECU coolant temp sensor) 3/8″ NPT pipe thread Twin-pin connector, top of “T”= BLACK= ground. Lower = YELLOW/GREEN

Sender #4(on/off switch) A/C compressor over heat shut down switch 1/8” x28 BSP pipe thread.  YELLOW/WHITE = wire color. (you COULD, ground it, full-time)

Oil pressure, pipe-plug installed in #4.

If EGR and A/C have been deleted, senders #2 & #4 can be eliminated. Hole #2 can be used for an aftermarket water temp sender.

CONFUSION? Peel-back the harness to ID Yellow/Green vs. Yellow/Blue. Wink

Was your car converted, A/T to 5 speed, or visa-versa?

Does your car have the OEM, computer/engine harness?

HOW IT WORKS. This thermosensor sends a GROUND to the A/C compressor RELAY (located on the LH apron, one of the 4 that are ID) but will BREAK that GROUND if the thermosensor detects a OVER-HEATING ENGINE!
It merely STOPS the A/C CLUTCH (removes the positive currant via the relay) to assist cooling the engine.
All 4 relays are the same, so they may be switched to find a bad one.

Vehicles with intercooler.
1. Primary radiator fan A/C relay.
2. A/C compressor clutch relay.
3.Condenser fan/pusher fan motor relay. (pusher fan)
4. Secondary radiator fan A/C relay.

ID the relays:
2. Magnet clutch relay wire colors,
Green/white (from the “dual pressure switch”)
Yellow/white (from the thermosensor above)
Black/white (positive currant sent to the a/c clutch)
Blue/red (from dedicated fuse #7)

Note the clutch itself has it’s own ground wire.

You can use a TEST LIGHT to see if the thermosensor SPADE is
-GROUNDED- ALL THE TIME. If not -GROUNDED- (engine not over-heating)
that thermosensor is bad. Yes, you can full-time ground that yellow/white wire
but it’s no longer a over-heat shut-down. Wink

It provides the GROUND for the A/C compressor CLUTCH RELAY. It is a THERMO SENSOR (means it has a transistor inside it) and when it detects a OVERHEATED ENGINE….it shuts-down the GROUND to the CLUTCH RELAY! to assist cooling the engine.

Mitsu’s, oil plug installed, here.
1/8″ x28

If you have installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in the side of the block,
you can use the the plug you removed to plug this hole IF you have deleted your A/C. Wink

This Mitsu’s, thread is 1/8″ x28 pitch.

CAUTION! Aftermarket, sensors/senders, are most likely:
1/8″ x27 or 1/4″ x18 or 3/8″ x18. Better TAP-IT! Rolling Eyes
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HOW IT WORKS! Testing your CTS. (coolant temp sensor) that “talks” to your ECU to determine the AFR (air fuel ratio) depending on the TEMP of your engine.

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Also known as the “CTS” $45-$80. (depends on the quality Rolling Eyes )
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Gotta bad/corroded connector? Speaker connectors and few inches of good wires can fix that! Note it ALSO has a RELEASE LEVER!Wink

THE CONFUSION IT CREATES: Rolling Eyes Your ECI/COMPUTER sends a -GROUND- to the CTS (top of the “T”) then sends it BACK to the ECI/COMPUTER by *INCREASING* THE GROUND AS THE MOTOR WARMS!

MORE CONFUSION… Rolling Eyes if somebody HACKED this harness!
You’ll have SEVERAL YELLOW/GREEN wires in that harness…TOO many of them! Rolling Eyes(some are not used) Andddd you’ve got a YELLOW/BLUE in there too. Crying or Very Sad (hard to tell the difference…look closer!) and get this….IT CHANGES COLORS MID-HARNESS! Shocked

Your test, ignition “on”: GROUND…for a brief moment, a YELLOW/GREEN wire as you OBSERVE the TEMP GAUGE in your dash. It should MAX-OUT the temp gauge…so MARK IT for that use!

NEXT…test another YELLOW/GREEN and WATCH THE GAUGE! Cause TWO OF THEM are ONE-IN-THE-SAME! (but you’ll only need one)

NO REACTION (to the gauge) = CTS signal wire. Pin #6 INTO the ECI/computer…the feedback ground signal. ORRRRR it could be the yellow/green that tells the A/T relay it is warm enough to use overdrive.

If you’ll CONTINUITY TEST each yellow/green with pin #6 at ECU harness at one end (blue connector)…you would *KNOW* that is a CTS signal wire. Wink

The BLACK WIRE IS: The GROUND SOURCE… that comes FROM THE ECU (your computer) then is REPEATED-BACK to the ECU….using the YELLOW/GREEN WIRE so the ECU knows how COLD/WARM the engine is…so it can ALTER…CHANGE the TIME PERIOD that OPENS THE INJECTORS! Wink (cold engines need to be a lil’ richer)

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Note: Terminals are not the same! Shocked You need a SOLID, CLEAN, TIGHT terminal to send a GOOD, RESISTANCE FREE CONNECTION!! This signal is sent to your COMPUTER!!

Two wire harness. YELLOW with a GREEN STRIPE and BLACK. Shaped like a “T”……the BLACK wire would go to the TOP of the “T”. Covered with a rubber boot from the factory…..which can HIDE A PROBLEM! Rolling Eyes

CTS (coolant temperature sensor)

Engine coolant sensor/sender for the dash ENGINE TEMP gauge…
…looks SIMILAR to a CTS!! Rolling Eyes

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Single pin type $35. Two pin type $98.  The lower part of the two pin “T” sends a GROUND to the OVERDRIVE RELAY after the engine warms up. (only has a use with A/T cars) Wink

If *YOUR* car is a 5 speed…that has a TWO PIN…and is plugged-in,
the YELLOW/GREEN is a DEAD-END WIRE….DOES ZIP…NADDA..NOTHING!

SUPER NOTE: Yellow/blue & yellow/green…FLIP-FLOP those colors at a harness JUNCTION under your dash…above the HVAC unit. Shocked

True…if you have an 87, and you change out the harness to a 88/89 harness…that JUNCTION is different. You’ll want that half of that harness too, or BUILD your own connector….keeping in mind that the colors changed. In other words….*TEST* each wire to select the RIGHT wire that reports to your TEMP GAUGE. Wink

Starquest with a A/T transmission using the 2 pin connector.
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The 2 pin SENSOR is known to malfunction…and it might shift up-in & out
of overdrive but the OTHER pin reports ENGINE TEMP just fine. Rolling Eyes

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YOU CAN…give that YELLOW/GREEN wire a FULL TIME GROUND and you’ll OVERDRIVE command at the switch on your shifter handle. Wink

KNOW THIS! If your car had a 5 speed….that yellow/green wire ain’t doing dick! It won’t even HAVE the A/T relay (located by your left foot well in A/T cars)

KNOW THIS! Vol 2 of the FSM (meters & gauges) says: “yellow/green” sends the signal (87 vol 2) yet “yellow/blue” sends the signal (88/89 vol 2) Rolling Eyes Btw…they only show ONE wire attached at all! Shocked

SUPER NOTE! Early cars had BOTH a single pin connector… and a TWO pin connector…that was TAPPED INSIDE the harness cause it wasn’t used until about 88s!

88/89 YELLOW/BLUE is the SENDER to the DASH TEMP GAUGE.

YELLOW/GREEN sends a GROUND to permit the A/T to use OVERDRIVE,
(yes…it is known to fail, and yes…a COLD ENGINE don’t like O.D.)

Yellow with a blue strip and yellow with a green strip. Note the green lead is NOT all the way on. Improper/corroded connections can give false readings.
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Failure to CLEAN or REPLACE DIRTY, CORRODED TERMINALS SENDS BAD SIGNALS or NO SIGNAL AT ALL!! Rolling Eyes If it has a A/T, and it jumps in & out of OD…more than likely this sender is bad. Wink

Engine, temp sender. M16 x1.0 pitch. (straight, not tapered)

NOTE: This is NOT A TAPERED PIPE THREAD.
It is a M16 x 1.0. It seals with sealant on the threads.
The red surface is where it bottoms out in the manifold.

You can switch out the oil pressure sending unit to the Carquest PS-192, but again the threads in the oil adapter are not tapped as deep so the new sender will only go in a couple of threads. If you don’t chase the threads deeper…….you’ll probably crack the ALUMINUM adapter when you try to force it in deep enough.

The alternative: use this adapter to adapt 1/8″ x28 to 1/8″ x27!
$23 Wink

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The brass Sunpro adapter is STRAIGHT THREAD…..NOT TAPPERD!!

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1/8″ x28 being changed to 1/8″ x27, for aftermarket, oil sending unit.

1/4″ x19 being changed to 1/4″ x18, for Turbo oil, feed line to -AN fittings.

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DO NOT BUY THESE!!

Sold by Auto Zone, the CP7573 is said to be the right adapter to convert METRIC to AMERICAN threads.

In the first place, this engine does not have a METRIC fitting for the oil pressure switch at ANY location.

Secondly, although the package does say it converts Metric threads, the kit also contains a 1/8-28 BSP thread to a 1/8″ NPT thread. This is the one that you will find DOES START into your block. But it will only go in about 3 or 4 threads before it becomes tight. It’s CLOSE……BUT NO BANANA!

Using a GOOD, HARDENED 5mm Allen socket drive and a breaker-bar attempt to remove the plug. It will require some torque…….BUT DO NOT STRIP IT! Back-off if it FEELS like it is going to STRIP.

That Sunpro CRAP is gonna leak…But you’ll shear-it trying to make it seal! That’s a 1/8″ BSP (straight thread) not a 1/8″ BSP…….which is what the block is. This adapter SPELLS DISASTER! DO NOT USE IT! Shocked

Tap block to 1/8″ NPT. (1/8″ x 27 pitch)

Can you convert you block threads to NPT 1/8″-27 without taking apart the engine? HELL YES! I’ve done it many times!

Running a PCV… Rolling Eyes only makes the EPA, happy. Many, CREATE, performance engines, don’t even have, PCVs, or the NIPPLES, to attach a ,PCV.

Failure to TAP, to 1/8″ x27NPT would result in CRACKING, the part! (red area)
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You can, plug-it with a 1/8″ x28 BSP, plug…or VENT IT FULL TIME! Attach a hose, below the oil pan.  (plug the intake manifold nipple or install a pipe-plug)

A common failure of the TPS (throttle position sensor)…..from a parked/stored car, or just WORN-OUT around 80K miles. It is a MECHANICAL DRIVEN RESISTANCE SENDER to you ECU! A RHEOSTAT!

Proper way to “INSPECT” or TEST your TPS: Wink

**Insert TPS INSPECTION/TEST & ADJUSTING Page **

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STOP Exclamation READ ALL Exclamation Mitsu spread this over several pages…. Rolling Eyes The ISC/MPS & the TPS etc….several pages with more details….kinda like this manual. Laughing Laughing Laughing

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To test the ISC nose/idle switch:
By Mike C.

* Engine is OFF. ISC “motor” connector is totally unplugged.
* Set your test meter to measure OHMs (resistance) on it’s least sensitive scale. On analog meters, that’s usually the “x1” scale; on digital meters it’s usually the “200” scale.
* Connect the meter’s black/- lead to the battery “-” post.
* Connect the meter’s red/+ lead to the nose/idle switch connector on the connector coming FROM the ISC/nose switch assembly – DO NOT connect it to the connector from the main wiring harness.
* With the throttle in the idle position, you should read ZERO ohms. On a digital meter, it should read 0.0 ohms (or something close to zero anyway… under 1.0 ohms). On analog meters, the needle should swing all the way to the right.
* Now open the throttle plates slightly: have a helper push on the gas pedal about half an inch, or reach around the back of the throttle body and turn the linkage a bit… or just push on the exposed throttle cable going into the throttle body assembly. The meter should instantly jump to INFINITE ohms. On a digital meter, it’ll show OPEN, nothing at all, dashes, etc – whatever it shows when the meter leads aren’t connected to anything. On an analog meter, the needle should swing all the way to the left.
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* Release the throttle and make sure the meter goes back to zero ohms. Repeat the last few steps to make sure the switch RELIABLY and CONSISTENTLY responds.

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Another way to test the idle/nose switch is to leave the ISC/nose switch connector plugged in. Start the engine and let it idle. With the test meter set to DC VOLTS now (not AC… that won’t work) hook the black lead to battery “-” again and the red lead to the idle/nose switch wire. You’ll read zero volts with the throttle at idle (since the swtich is “shorting” to ground at idle when it works right) and either 5 or 12 volts when you rev the engine a little.

For folks not used to using “multimeters” to test volts/ohms, a few basic guidelines:
1: VOLT testing is done with the engine running and the connectors/wires/parts connected normally. The meter leads are “tapped” into the circuit to monitor it. Use the DC volts scales for most tests on cars. The meter will monitor/read the voltage IN THE CIRCUIT; this voltage is provided by something in the circuit – not provided by the meter. Testing voltage is similar to testing vacuum levels on a running engine: you have to “T” into the wiring to get a reading; the guage just shows you “what’s in there.”

2: RESISTANCE (ohms) testing is done with the component being tested OUT of the circuit. That means the wires to/from it, or the connectors, are DISCONNECTED. For parts with only two leads (like temp sensors which have one lead plus the “body” of the sensor screwed into the engine) disconnecting just ONE wire is enough. For multi-wire sensors (like the throttle position sensor) it’s better to unplug all wires. The meter leads are connected right to the part being tested. For resistance testing, the meter SUPPLIES THE VOLTAGE needed to test the part. This is like testing vacuum actuated parts: you disconnect the vac hose to the part (e.g. the distributor vacuum advancer) and instead apply your own vacuum source to see what the part does.

When testing RESISTANCE, you have to be careful of the voltage injected by your meter; analog meters especially can spit out a fairly high voltage that’ll damage the ECU or “active” sensors like the airflow sensor (“active sensor” means parts that have electronic circuitry inside them). Digital meters generally inject lower/safer voltages when doing resistance testing.

Also, most analog meters have the injected voltage “backwards” in polarity on the leads: the red lead is negative, the black lead is positive. This backwards polarity can be even more dangerous than the actual voltage; reverse polarity fries many electronic parts instantly.

Simple sensors (throttle position sensor, idle/nose switch, the various oil/water temp sensors) won’t be damaged by any analog meter.
The airflow sensor, ECU, cruise computer, a/c computer, ETACS computer, etc. are far more vulnerable. Unless you know what you’re doing, testing those parts with a meter set to RESISTANCE is generally incorrect – and often dangerous to the circuitry.

mike c.

More details on the ISC/MPS here: Cool

** Insert  Throttle Body and Intake Manifold page **

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The signals that are sent…..are only as good as the MEANS by which they are transmitted. Rolling Eyes On this application…the battery is just up-front of this connector. This is a 87 vintage.
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Do you need to remove it from the housing…..or replace the connector? No, not really.
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These are your tools. Wear GOGGLES & GLOVES….and DO NOT WHIP YOUR HANDS ON CLOTHES THAT YOU WANT TO KEEP! Laughing

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You can: just pull-back the silicone seal….and DIP-IT! Just….DO NOT BREATH IT! Shocked

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Bout 30 seconds into the PURE acid……….
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Then about a minute into a mix of HOT WATER & BAKING SODA= ONE HELL OF A CLEAN TERMINAL! Twisted Evil

CAUTION! You just stripped the tin-plate, so CORROSION could reappear
a year or two later! Crying or Very Sad
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As stated in many “FLYERS” that are in the box of new/rebuilt STARTER….ALTERNATOR: “Disconnect the CABLE from where it goes to to TEST THE VOLTAGE at the end of that cable…it should be NO LOWER than .2 volts of the battery voltage. This is TRUE OF BOTH CABLES!

Should you replace this cable….. Rolling Eyes probably! Laughing What does it GROUND? The ENGINE/TRANS/STARTER….and the ALTERNATOR,(but only if the Alt. stationary bolt is paint/grease free) PERIOD! Rolling Eyes
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Everything electrical was fine…..right-up-to when you wanted a HEAVY AMP LOAD (under different temps) when you wanted to START THE ENGINE!

A new starter and a new positive cable…. Rolling Eyes NO HELP AT ALL! Shocked

You just need to remember….YOU CAN NOT PASS-ALONG WHAT IS NOT THERE Exclamation Rolling Eyes
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In other words….a SHITY BODY/ENGINE WIRE/CABLE is ALL…..your gonna PASS-ALONG Exclamation Wink

http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/battery-neggrounds-ign-coil/

Now….because the POSITIVE SIGNALS…IS GREATLY REDUCED from the factory…INJECTORS…TPS…etc etc: Rolling Eyes

http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/batt-pos-alt-fusesfuse-linksupgrades/

The BATTERY showed 12.5 volts….and after CLEANING of the NEGATIVE CABLE, it showed…12.5 volts. Meaning that, I do not need to REPLACE…that cable. Wink

Now….are you impressed with “NEW CONNECTORS”? Rolling Eyes

Better study those two terminal “W” crimps. Laughing Ol’ Mr. MOTOR MITE..YOU SUCK!

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That WHITE wire is PREMIUM COPPER (Delphi)…without the MISS..of a SOUND “W” CRIMP….on the red wire, “MOTOR MOUTH” wire. Crying or Very Sad

“NEW” means ZIP…to *ME*…without the NAME! Rolling Eyes

Companies like…. Rolling Eyes…..TEP (Top End Performance) Rolling Eyes that would REMOVE THE FACTORY PACKAGE to HIDE THE TRUTH FROM *YOU*….KNOCK YOURSELF OUT! Laughing Laughing

Companies like: BOSCH… MITSU…DELPHI…AC Delco….NIPPON…are NOT AFRAID to provide a SUPERIOR PART….for a couple bucks more! Wink

In this lil’ box…..are $2,500 worth of….GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! Wink

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Noooooo, this is not a Starquest. Rolling Eyes But….I have a feeling that you own other vehicles….don’t you. Cool Laughing Laughing Laughing

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This complaint: Lost the lamp indication of “LOW FUEL”. Which happens to be FAR….from WHERE it began in the BODY GROUND LOCATION. Rolling Eyes

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How many, have you NEGLECTED? Rolling Eyes
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Are these type of bolts “SPECIAL”? Yep! Wink Bodies (from the factory) are PAINTED FIRST! This IS NOT SELF-TAPING……it IS….SELF-DE-PAINTING of the EXISTING THREADS!

Boneyards have BILLIONS of CLEAN…USED ONES Exclamation Sanding away the paint that comes into CONTACT with the SHEET METAL via the EYELET…..call it…. Rolling Eyes TURBOCHARGED GROUNDS! Laughing

What is…your RUNNING, fuel pressure & vacuum/boost?
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This 1/4″ x19, plug needs to be removed & converted to 1/4″ x18NPT.
6mm Allan, plug. Use a QUALITY, Allan, tool! Rolling Eyes

HEAT IT…NOW REMOVE THE FLAME, back-out the plug!
(Loctited-in! Rolling Eyes )

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Or…a HEAT GUN WILL ALSO WORK!
And you can dismantle it further and allow the fuel to dry out! Very Happy

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Translation: He is using just the GAUGE to SEE what vacuum he has.
That Mighty-Vac *ALSO* can generate vacuum if you are TESTING a vacuum servo, a Distributor Vacuum Advance Control etc etc.

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Do you need a 1/4″ x18 TAP or the plug? Rolling Eyes JUST ASK!
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Basic…NEED-TO-KNOW, INFO! Cool

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Early ISC did not have a MPS. In 87-89 models they did (lil’ black box) that has a SPRING ON TOP TO PRE-LOAD THE MPS….into the HOLDER-BRACKET.

The one on the right is not SPREAD… Shocked WHY? Cause it fell outta place at the factory. Rolling Eyes
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That SPRING is easily LOST…….. Rolling Eyes

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Above: You will FEEL…the PRELOAD of the stainless steel spring. Wink

Excuse me…. Rolling Eyes Did you think you were being clever to take test inside that plastic housing,……ya lil’ HACK! Evil or Very Mad

Note this: THREE WIRES IN….TURNS TO FOUR INSIDE THE HOUSING!!
The RED WIRE!! Rolling Eyes
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You’re exposed to PARTS CARS….of various makers….
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…and it is SOOOO EASY to make your own test harness. Rolling Eyes Idea Arrow
And you can use the “KISS” method….KEEP IT SIMPLE, STUPID! Laughing
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3 wires to set the TPS…and 4 for the ISC/MPS, keeping in-mind that one one jumps to another inside the CONNECTOR.

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NOTE: The bottom of the page says, “TSB REVISION” (1989)!
This SUPERSEDES “STB REVISIONS” (1988) Rolling Eyes

DC motors WEAR-DA-fuck-OUT! Rolling Eyes The FSM says to use a 6 VOLT
BATTERY for testing! Makes ZERO-SENSE to use HIGHER voltage! Rolling Eyes
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If you do NOT own a AVOM & DVOM & 6 volt battery…you ARE,
PISSING-N-DA-RAIN! Laughing
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The only use of the REMOVED ABS….is the MALE/FEMALE, ROUND FOUR PIN HARNESS CONNECTOR! Laughing Laughing Laughing
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But….you walk the boneyards and you’ll find many of them. Wink
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A TPS? ROUND THREE PIN! Rolling Eyes

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The “SAS Fixed” screw is what the DEAD-STOP…or REST POSITION for the butterfly is.  In the 88 factory service, pages 14-32 thru 14-35, is how you ADJUST your TPS.  As you can see…there is a bracket that blocks easy access to that screw
(in red) because…if you turn it, the TPS will need re-adjusted!  The instructions in those pages…are how to RETURN IT TO WHERE IT SHOULD BE! Shocked  Most of the used TBs I have come across are in a VIRGIN STATE and that’s GOOD NEWS! Cool

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The screw on the left is the ISC adjusting screw…and *YOU* are NEVER to back-it-out! It merely adjust the ISC STOPPER LEVER to MAKE SURE the ISC GROUNDS the ISC when it is returned to IDLE!
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Any place you see a *DOT* indicates that SHIELDED GROUND WIRE is “Td” into that harness. Those lil’ DASHES indicate that wire is SHIELDED GROUND.
CAUTION: A DOT in the DASH LINE indicates the shielded ground is sharded. But a DOT in the SIGNAL wire is sharded with another part.
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Starquest with a A/T transmission using the 2 pin connector.

One terminal reports to the engine temp gauge in your dash.

The other terminal reports to the A/T RELAY to let the relay know the engine is warm enough to use the OVERDRIVE!
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If you have a 5 speed car…ONE TERMINAL DOES NOTHING ON A 2 TERMINAL SENDER! Rolling Eyes
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The 2 pin SENSOR is known to malfunction…and it might shift up-in & out
of overdrive but the OTHER pin reports ENGINE TEMP just fine. Rolling Eyes
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YOU CAN…give that YELLOW/GREEN wire a FULL TIME GROUND and you’ll OVERDRIVE command at the switch on your shifter handle.

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Young mechanics are gonna screw-up from time to time.
Yes…he did remove the sender and wire-brushed the terminals.

But using TEFLON TAPE to seal it back up is KNOWN to INTERRUPT the GROUND that the HOUSING would want….or maybe just weaken it.

That means….the TEMP GAUGE IN YOUR DASH COULD BE LYING TO YOU!

Use the PASTE TYPE of Teflon sealant! Wink
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This FURTHER repair… Laughing created a OVER-DRIVE BUTTON that works
FLAWLESS UNDER YOUR COMMAND.

Avoid going into O.D. unless the engine is warmed-up a lil’. Wink

Using a STAND ALONE VACUUM GAUGE, as suggested in the FSM, while *DRIVING* the car… Rolling Eyes gives MUCH MORE *REAL-DEAL* INFO….right-n-ya-face!

You can “T” into ANYPLACE….like here to the FPR, your DISTRIBUTOR, etc etc.
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It is very simple….to insert washers or opened-end shims with a longer bolt to route the hose without pinching it. Wink Idea Arrow
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In this example…it is BOOST PRESSURE (not vacuum) I want to view. You can purchase a VACUUM/PRESSURE STAND-ALONE GAUGE at
Pep-Boys….Auto Zone, etc for $25.

Anybody….that wants to “TUNE” ANY ENGINE, this is *THE* tool to own!
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Because USERS of the “Krank Vent” $y$tem…. Rolling Eyes *CLAIM* that a CRANK CASE BUILDS VACUUM…while the TURBOCHARGER BUILDS BOOST… Laughing you would “T” into the VENT HOSE (rear of the valve cover) to see if there was any TRUTH to that line of NONSENSE. Idea Arrow

Some guys use the DIPSTICK HOUSING to monitor the crankcase vacuum/pressure. *TEST* wherever you like. Wink

The VACUUM/PRESSURE *FIGURES*….while *DRIVING* the car….is WHAT YOU WANT! *NOT*….leaning over a fender. Laughing Laughing

Now…..*VENTING* a crankcase, goes into GREAT DETAIL and shows MANY OPTIONS that you have here: **Insert OIL SEPARATOR/PCV/VENTING/RAM-AIR! Page**

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This topic further breaks down the cooling system electrics & more:
**Insert COOLING SYSTEM/COOLING FANS & JUMPER WIRE Page **

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Some of these thermosensors (start at $30) ain’t worth a DIME!  Others can retail as high as $122! Shocked  That Japan aftermarket sensor (far right) MB007639 I purchased for $26…..sept-4-07  but it was the LAST ONE that “Worldpac” had. Crying or Very Sad
The fatter looking ones actually have a spring-loaded, copper contact surface inside them… Rolling Eyes(mechanical type) VS. the OEM type SKINNY one, that has a TRANSISTOR soldered inside it. (electronic type)  The skinny ones happen to be 100% more reliable than those CHEAP-ass fat ones. (you get what you pay for Rolling Eyes )

“I have installed two, LOWER TEMP sensors (into the radiator) without a jumper wire upgrade to have both primary & secondary fan engage”.

I have read that several times….and tried that years ago. Rolling Eyes What *I* see is the seondary fan engages FIRST, and the primary fan DID NOT ENGAGE AT ALL, cause NOW the primary thermosensor is cooled-off too fast too.

And….those cheap-ass thermosensors might work fine when NEW, but shortly thereafter they will FAIL YOU!

Now…half-way up the factory temp gauge means something IS NOT DOING IT’S JOB! You should be BELOW 1/3 of the way up the factory gauge ALL the time!

The very reason that the primary cooling fan is worn-out at about 100k miles…is because it cycles ON very often.  The motor is fine, cept the BRUSHES are worn-down! Rolling Eyes
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Now…with a JUMPER WIRE UPGRADE, it cools this engine MUCH FASTER so the “ON” fan operation is now a lil’ more restricted. Wink

Keep this in mind….you had EMISSIONS to deal with = MORE ENGINE TEMPS! Rolling Eyes

“Hey, I RE-WIRED MINE so the fans run 24-7 when the ignition is on!”

That is the LAST thing I would do to my ALTERNATOR & my BATTERY & my FUSIBLE LINKS….. Rolling Eyes

“UPGRADING” your Alternator? Rolling Eyes

A CI Alternator rear bracket/ground.
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Note metal rear bracket/ground

A CS Alternator rear bracket.
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Note metal rear bracket/ground.

Wowwwwwww, that looks SO HARD to fabricate that rear bracket. Shocked
How many HOLES are NOT USED in the side of a 2.6L? Rolling Eyes

I wonder….do they sell ELECTRICAL CONDUIT at HOME DE-BLOW:lol: Laughing Laughing Do they sell FLAT STOCK STEEL at HOME DE-BLOW?
What about…..nuts, bolts & washers? Rolling Eyes

A CS-130, 105 amp Alternator….under a LOAD… Shocked NEEDS STABILITY Exclamation
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Note metal rear bracket/ground.
The LOADED end of a Alternator is the rear-end housing!
Without a METAL BRACKET…the only thing that holds-it-together are the VERY SMALL 3 BOLTS! And NONE of those bolts are gonna -GROUND- that rear housing to the engine block! Rolling Eyes

Remember….only 2 amps will be RECHARGING your battery. The rest of the AMP OUTPUT is what your ACCESSORIES are demanding from the Alternator.

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Note metal rear bracket/ground.
More info here:

http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/batt-pos-alt-fusesfuse-linksupgrades/

Btw…buying a “NEW” Alternator from Auto Boners, Pecker Boys, Advanced, Joe Blow’s, etc etc…. Rolling Eyes better have it into their computers so you can get a WARRANTY REPLACEMENT ASAP cause the “NEW” Alternator is a hunk-o-crap Alternator. Rolling Eyes Been there…done that, but won’t ever do it again! “Life Time Warranty” means NADDA to me!

REBUILT AC Delco Alternators will last *YOU* MANY YEARS!! Wink Idea Arrow Ask for one at Carquest and tell them you WANT a REAL AC Delco rebuilt! Bout $96!

But odds are…you ain’t using the FACTORY 75 AMPS in the first place! Laughing
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And just so EVERYBODY knows…PROBING for a signal with the WRONG TEST LIGHT (the one on the right “CAUTION NOT FOR COMPUTERS”) can DAMAGE your ECU by *SHORTING* you create (it passes right threw the bulb…hello) is “Not good Maverick…….NOT GOOD!” Shocked
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The one on the LEFT….BINGO, RINGO! Wink

*YOU* supply both negative & positive via the alligators….that makes a red light turn-on to tell you…your powerd.

Now…there is ANOTHER red bulb that turns-on when you probe a HOT POSITIVE…and A GREEN BULB turns-on if you probe a GOOD NEGATIVE.

One more time….. Laughing This twin pin was only used in the 88 & 89s…that also had a TWIN TERMINAL TEMP SENDER.

The TWIN PIN CONNECTOR was just BLUE ELECTRICAL tapped inside the harness on the EARLY cars…so it wasn’t used on EARLY cars.
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It is the SOURCE for the HVAC unit (heater, defrost, a/c) and the cruise control too.
In the right-rear corner of the engine bay you’ll note lil’ white CHECK VALVES (one way valves) so BOOST…can’t reach those accessories.
1. PORTED vacuum (only sees vacuum after the butterfly opens, used just for the Dizzy ONLY)
3. MANIFOLD vacuum (full time vacuum but is restricted to about 12 Hg)
2. MANIFOLD vacuum (full time…no restriction, BOV ok))
4. MANIFOLD vaccum (full time, no restrictions, HVAC controls and crusie control, BOV ok (known to be blown-off from boost)

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The VACUUM RESERVOIR PURPOSE (not pictured here) is to SUSTAND a longer duration of the NEEDED vacuum to operate the crusie control until the ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP (not picture here) turns itself on while PULLING A LONG HILL WHILE UNDER BOOST!

The VACUUM that is already in the HVAC unit is NOT GONNA BLEED-OFF because the one-way-valves ain’t gonna allow that!

Meaning…if you have removed the crusie control…you need a vacuum RESERVOIR like a kick-n-da-nuts! Same with the electric vacuum pump and it’s relay and it’s SWITCH! (located in the RR corner of the engine bay)

Anybody that states otherwise….is a IDIOT, or just haven’t done it themselfs. Rolling Eyes

I live at nearly 6,000ft ASL! I am DOWN 6″ of vacuum ALREADY!
(read just below the blue highlited area)
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Btw…that vacuum hose is NOTORIOUS to have been BLOWN-OFF that nipple because BOOST pushes it off! Hence…..flare it as it is shown in the pic. FIXED! Wink

HOW….would your ECU know you are running TOO COLD?
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Install a FULL-TIME LED (light emitting diode) from the “self-diagnosis” port.
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Just inside your glovebox (top side)…you can pop-it loose.

Once the engine is warmed…it should emit a solid, red light.

NOTE…the “X” position (in the diagram) to ID which is negative
and which is positive! Rolling Eyes
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This is simple enough to understand….please read ALL of it! Rolling Eyes

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If all of a sudden….the engine cooled-off a lil’ too much, The solid red light
might flash 1 blink……3 times, cause the O2 went cold.

If it flashed 7 blinks….3 times, cause the CTS went too cold.

DO NOT ASSUME those sensors went bad. Rolling Eyes Just a bad, corroded
HARNESS CONNECTOR could be the culprit! Rolling Eyes
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You can lengthen the wires and install it next to your stereo.

Brake booster nipple shows 1/8″ x27 NPT.

Use ONLY, 11/32″ VL, Brake booster hose! (Vacuum Level)
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PCV nipple shows, 1/8″ x28 BSP.
5/16″ nipple, EMISSION HOSE ONLY! (will see engine oil Rolling Eyes )
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Because there are several different THREADS PER INCH, “PITCH” of SAE & METRIC…straight vs. pipe thread, It helps to have the TOOLS to ID which is which.
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And, because, you have ALLAN drive plugs made of STEEL vs. BRASS,
which have different LENGTHS… Rolling Eyes you could easily become
confused and DAMAGE softer metals which could create a LEAK. Rolling Eyes
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Here, the plug in the TB shows to be a 1/4″x19…but most replacement plugs
are found to be a lil’ FATTER.

Therefore, you would want to TAP IT, a lil’ deeper
so you don’t end-up with a fuel leak when using a
PLUG that you provided, locally. Shocked
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DO NOT…assume they are METRIC because it came from a IMPORT CAR!
You need to TEST, each and everyone to VERIFY which it really is.
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Example: ALL, of these pipe threads needed TAPPED a lil’ deeper,
(1/8″ & 1/4″ & 3/8″ pipe) to drive the plug in deeper…for a GOOD
seal and a CLEAN look. Wink
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Turbo oil supply port is 1/4″ x19. We recommend tapping it to 1/4″ x18 to enclose more threads.  You’ll see what we mean when you try it. Wink
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Converting to a -AN fitting.
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Remove the oil filter adapter so you may CLEAN the filings from tapping it.
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Indexing to see how DEEP you may get the fitting into the oil filter adapter.
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The new fitting would only go-in 1 1/4 turns before it became tight! That is not NEARLY enough thread penetration.
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1/4″ x18 NPT tapping tools can be purchased at Sears, Lowes etc.
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Give it 5 full rotations…then clean-away the filings.
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Remove the oil pressure sensor. Using carb cleaner to dissolve the lubricant……and compressed air, cover that red hole with a FINDER….
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…….blow-clean the oil filter adapter.
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Once the filings have been cleaned-away…..test fit your DEPTH. It should be 4 threads DEEP. If not……..TAP IT FURTHER.
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Once you have installed for “WET” applications (it carries engine oil) wrap the fitting 360* TWICE and install it.
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Because all of these pipe plugs are 1/4″ x18….but are made from DIFFERENT materials & manufactures, the are NOT ID in OUTSIDE DIAMETER. Rolling Eyes
That would also be true of ALL FITTINGS!
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