*STEERING* COUPLER/COLUMN/IGN SWITCH

STOP! Mad Can you adjust your steering-box,
BACK-LASH? That would be as likely as the Diff, gears requireing
a back-lash correction! Rolling Eyes
Leave-it the fuck, ALONE!
If you can’t afford NEW parts…then SELL YOUR CAR! Sad

“Tubes & other RUBBER PARTS….” (which is a coupler!) duh, ARE BAD NEWS FOR A RUBBER PART!! Laughing

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Welding a broken one…..NOT RECOMMENDED! Rolling Eyes
REMEMBER…..this is a TILT COLUMN!! Rolling Eyes

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Ignoring front-end vibration destroys the RUBBER-HEART of the steering COUPLER (also known as the “socket”) As you can see here…once the rubber is destroyed, you’ll have several inches of steering wheel FREE-PLAY before the METAL TAKES-OVER.

ANY…steering coupler that contains RUBBER doesn’t like being BEAT-TA-shit from ignoring front-end vibration or being coverd in ANY oil based products.

This topic will cover the steering coupler replace, it’s rubber boot, the ignition switch replace and the “COMBO” switch replace. (wipers, highbeam etc)

Please open your hood and place it on the prop-rod.
Many of the screws you are about to remove are DIFFERANT, so time for some organization.

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Special extended shank bolt. 8mm x 1.25 pitch & metric grade 8 hardness.
(Free to regular customers) Wink

Testing *ALL* 6 of the socket-n-ball joints while installed or not.
There should be ZERO, END-PLAY! Rolling Eyes
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STOP! INDEX…with a SCRIBE, the steering wheel and the top of the SHAFT! Like at 12 o’clock…so you re-install the steering wheel where it was!

The idea is to squirt some WD-40 (or like) into the 3 circles……cause that’s where the cover snaps into. MAYBE you won’t break the cover when you PULL LIKE CRAZY to remove it. Wink
Once the cover is off….Remove the nut that retains the steering wheel. Now MARK the steering wheel and the shaft so you can re-install it EXACTLY how you removed it. Put the nut back on a couple of threads…….and pull like a mad dog on the wheel. The nut will stop the wheel from nailing you in the mug. Laughing

Does your steering wheel GRIND when you rotate it? This is the horn contact surface. Clean it and lightly regrease it with di-electrical grease.

It contacts the lead at 12 o’clock. Clean and lube this contact as well.

Remove fuse box cover, then remove the two red screws.

You should have enough slack under the hood to pull the cable out a few inches…….IF…….you make sure. So, go check under the hood.

Unhook the cable from the lever. Now unhook the cable housing from the bracket.

RH side trim. One retainer located at the center……..needs to be pushed upward.

Removal of the trim will expose this screw. Remove it.

Pull the knob straight off.

Use a flat-blade screwdriver to turn the nut off.

Two “locks” along the bottom hold this on. Push up to remove.

Note how the harness is routed. Remove switch and push harness back into opening. Remove red screw.

Remove JUST the 3 red screws.

87-89 models had a HEAVY-WEIGHT knee protector and a much HEAVIER glove-box door. Rolling Eyes

You can now remove the KNEE PROTECTOR panel.

Loosen the jam nut and remove the “T” handle. The steering column trim is retained with 5 screws. You can see 3 of them here. Remove these ones last

Remove the two forward ones first.

You can better see the location of the 5 screws here.

Very common to see broken top screw bosses in the upper trim panel. This is usually caused by INCORRECT ROUTING ON THE WIRING HARNESSES. You’ll want to pay close attention to how the harnesses should be routed. We’ll cover that. Wink

Once the 5 screws are removed…………REMOVE JUST THE BOTTOM TRIM.

Remove the spring (noting where it is attached) and disconnect ALL the wiring harness ends.

Slide this insulation panel up the column.

It has a rubber grommet that seals the column. The column will side-out of the grommet.

The top trim will still be in place because there won’t be enough room to remove it. So be careful and remove the 4 black bolts……..but leave ONE IN LOOSE.

Again…IGNORED FRONT-END VIBRATION DESTROYS the:
1. Coupler
2. Centerlink
3. Tie-rod ends
4. Idler Arm Bushings
5. Wheel bearings & Hub. too.

Also…EXTENDED, PARKED CARS will also ETCH WHEEL BEARINGS from MOISTURE in the grease.

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Centerlink weather boots. (not the same on the tie rod ends)

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They make several tools to seperate the parts. However, the NARROW FORK is the TOOL THAT WORKS BEST! Autoboner loaner tool.

Yes…it will destroy the weather boot. Crying or Very Sad

BE AWARE! A FRONT VIBRATION….it’s not *JUST* the tie-rod ends or centerlink or the idler arm or the coupler/dampner that goes SOUTH!

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“I can’t find the reason for the front-end VIBRATIONS!”.

Are *YOU* AFRAID of STRIPPING THE GREASE OF FRONT HUBS? Rolling Eyes

Btw…if you are removing the GEAR BOX, note that factory index marks on both parts, please! This is covered in another topic.

Once you clean it off, you’ll be able to see the factory index marks.

Ignition switch P/N MB398854
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Inside the IGNITION SWITCH, CONVEX SHAPED COPPER TERMINALS can wear down or become contaminated, corroded, nasty grease, etc etc.

Even if it works…it can REDUCE THE VOLTAGE OUTPUT which would CHEAT-DA-VOLTAGE to the IGNITION 1, IGNITION 2 and ACC.!!
I can promise you this…A VIBRATING COLUMN isn’t gonna be “FRIENDLY” to your IGNITION SWITCH! Rolling Eyes

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