STEERING, P/S LEAKS, IDLER ARM

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LOOSE STEERING Question Check your steering shaft, coupler/dampner & idler arm for slop FIRST!
Center/drag link-ends are typically WORN-OUT and so are the tie-rod ends! Rolling Eyes

If your BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER has been leaking brake fluid onto this coupler for a long time, the COUPLER RUBBER is SOFT or DESTROYED!!

Review this link to show how to replace JUST the coupler! Wink

http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/steering-coupler-column-ign-switch/

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Indications that BRAKE FLUID dripped from the MC REAR SEAL onto the STEERING DAMPENER (coupler/dampener under the rubber boot) will DESTROY the DAMPENER if not corrected in due time. Shocked That generates: REALLY SLOPPY STEERING! Rolling Eyes

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This nut is 30mm & is torqued to 94-108 ft. lbs.

STOP! Rolling Eyes You don’t need to remove the steering box to replace the LOWER, crossshaft seals!

Once you clean it off, you’ll be able to see the factory index marks. Wink

STOP! This pitman-arm, puller is made-of FORGED STEEL! (not cast iron Rolling Eyes )
If you are stupid-enough…to NOT SEE that CORROSION is a problem,
and PENETRATING OIL can’t reach that area….CONTINUE TO READ-ON!

This PITMAN ARM PULLER is available for rent from AUTOZONE. Wink
Bet the SMALLER one, of the TWO that are offered! Cool

Having trouble with the pitman arm REMOVAL?

You might be dealing with the RUST in the states that use SALT on the roads!

Lock it down in a vise and add HEAT to the ARM only!
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Take a impact hammer and drive it home. use common sense here.  Don’t mess up your threads, i used a flat ended bit, but a pointed bit in the center hole will work too, just be careful. You should place a hunk of thick steel over the shaft…so your hammer will behave like a PRESS!

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Problem solved.
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Use a CALIPER to *KNOW* the DEPTH of this adjustment screw…if you plan to replace the UPPER, HYDRAULIC SEAL…FIRST! Rolling Eyes

DO NOT…rely on the TURNS it takes to remove that screw!  (turn clock-wise to remove from the bottom…only)

PAY ATTENTION! Use a file to INDEX the NUT/STUD/HOUSING to reassemble the way it was. Odds are it won’t need tighten to bring the GEARS closer together. (back-lash adjustment)

Nut torque is 22-33 ft. lbs. Wink

Route the bleeder hose into a DRAIN PAN and get rid of it. BTW……..ALWAYS FLUSH THE SYSTEM FIRST…….then begin the RESEAL PROCESS.

How do you “FLUSH” the P/S system? EASY!
Remove the REAR HOSE from the reservoir…..extend it over the fender with a 3/8 NIPPLE into a 5 gallon bucket.

Now cap the reservoir nipple. Open 6-8 Qts. of Dexron II or III.
Start the engine. Refill the reservoir at the same rate it is filling the bucket. The fluid will become cleaner as it pushes out the old ATF. Add Lucas P/S treatment/additive once you have put the hose back on and top off the ATF. Wink