AS massive as the transmission INPUT-SHAFT BEARING is… it WILL get wiped-out if the PILOT BEARING has failed!
83 thru 87 KM132s had some minor changes. Come 88, Mitsu modified/upgraded a few more parts…that made it a little tougher, but that is NOT about to cure NEGLECTING THE CLUTCH LINKAGE!
Mitsu’s trans mount went OBSOLETE!
Aftermarket ones FREQUENTLY, have the WRONG ANGLE of the mounting bracket! DO NOT USE IT!
YOU…are gonna need the trans as clean as possible.
1. Drain the trans of 85/90 ONLY, before you remove it!
If you are FOOLISH enough to run “Trick Shift” or ATF or ANY lube that
wasn’t 85/90 GL-5…you just created MORE damaged parts!
2. Place it into a 5 gallon bucket cause there is MORE gear oil inside it!
OVERNIGHT would be better….cause it moves slowly.
Btw…that is ENGINE OIL inside that bellhousing…cause some DIPSTICK
got LAZY and didn’t replace the REAR MAIN OIL SEAL while he had access to it!
But….clean-out that bellhousing too! DO NOT….inject, high-pressure water inside the trans! Your parts will begin to RUST immediately!
SPECIALIZED TOOLS… you will need a couple of them.
The EXTENSION LEGS are for pulling the REAR, main-shaft bearing…I’ll show you a way that you won’t need the legs.
YES…you CAN do a couple of END-PLAY test while your trans
is still in your car!
3. Remove the belly-pan and FLUSH the gear oil residue (recommend 2 cans)
so you can SEE a little more details…and using a permanent MAGIC MARKER,
mark the parts to keep them IN ORDER if you are gonna take it apart.
Because most transmission have HELICAL-GEARS (teeth run at an angle)
gears TRY to WALK-AWAY from each other. *IF*…the END-PLAY of 3 shafts
1. Mainshaft 2. Countershaft 3. Inputshaft has grown to more than .008″ EACH,
the trans will want to JUMP outta gear, GRIND….and generally work like shit!
With two LONG screwdrivers…we are gonna TEST the end-play of the mainshaft.
Try to move it forward…now try to move it rearward. How easy is that?
This *IS*……the *87* rear, mainshaft bearing and it’s RETENTION, THRUST PLATE! The RED area is the contact surfaces and that THRUST PLATE IS WORN,
so the END-PLAY is excessive at 105K miles! There was a TSB issue on them for replacement.
It’s 87 TSB replacement part..black in color, and a HARDER STEEL!
Experienced…Mitsu wrenchers may have replaced them while the trans is still in the car.
SUPERNOTE! The 88/89s were already UPGRADED by then! So it’s NOT LIKEY
for those mainshafts to have end-play! (unless you burned-up your trans… )
END-PLAY TESTING…the COUNTERSHAFT. Remember… more than .008″, suggest the countershaft bearings are worn and MAYBE it’s THRUST shim too.
WARNING! Ya see how the ROLL-PINS are installed into that shifter shaft? If they were ROTATED 90*… those ROLL-PINS would be WALKING-OUT of those parts! FSM say-so too! PAY ATTENTION, HERE!
This *IS*…the countershaft, THRUST WASHER/SHIM! It is available in several different THICKNESSES! We don’t want the shaft PRE-LOAD (too thick) *OR*…
too LOOSE! = ZERO END-PLAY of the countershaft!
Ya see that GROOVE…between the teeth & the “dogs”? (those lil’ tiny teeth) Place your screwdriver into it. A better view with a USED blocker ring. NOTE THE SHAPE OF A GOOD “DOG”!
Now….grab the inputshaft by it’s spline area with your hand. TRY…to move-it
FRONT-TO-REAR! HOW MUCH CAN YOU MOVE IT?
YES…it has a SPACER (slashed red) and a SHIM (solid red) and one little one too.
(covered in the clutch chapter/seal replacement )
How LIKELY could the red shim be at fault? Bout a BILLION-TO-ONE!
The COUNTERSHAFT *SPACER* (below the input…silver incolor, BETTER MARK IT!! ) If not…and you take this trans apart, you’ll get it CROSSED-UP!
How likely would this THRUST washer be at fault? THE SAME!
Those inputshaft bearings are PRESSED-ON….BY GOD! (means a lot)
If you have END-PLAY….chances are a BAD PILOT BEARING was not replaced and you DESTROYED THE INPUTSHAFT BEARING ITSELF!
One more….END-PLAY TEST! (but you can use your hand, here. )
In second gear now…….
….shifting into 1st gear.
A SHITER FORK…..slides-over a “sleeve”. The FORK can become WORN!
A FORK…next to a “SLEEVE”, with the “HUB” installed, and as a UNIT…
we call it a “SYNCHRO”!
Can you see…that lil’ STEP it has? That FORK is WORN!
A NEW shifter FORK……
A OLD shifter FORK. Where da hell did .028″ go?
Between THIS….and a WORN mainshaft bearing retainer, SHE JUMPED OUTTA 1ST GEAR AT TIMES!
You don’t FIX-IT….3RD GEAR WILL ALSO DO THE SAME……SOON!
WHY…SO CLEAN? The REARMOST gear (in the main housing) is 1st gear. The next 2nd gear. The next 3rd gear. The next 4th gear. (inputshaft) The mark…farest to the left is the “HUB” of the 1st/2nd synchronizer. Yes, you COULD put them on ass-BACKWARDS!
If you take your trans apart…you’re gonna install parts BACKWARDS….INCORRECT, WHATEVER! MARK EM’!
Move it into 1st gear…now MARK 2nd gear. Remember…these parts have a FRONT & REAR and CAN BE installed BACKWARDS!
Remember…you’ll have to remove the TAILHOUSING and those parts
will be a OILY MESS TOO. CLEAN IT…..then mark the order of your parts.
DETENTS…on the shifter rails holds a gear into position. However, if the DOGS on the GEARS or the BLOCKER RINGS are WORN TOO SHORT (from grinding gears ) the trans will KICK….the gear BACK INTO NUETRAL!
How a SYNCHRONIZER works. (to synchronize one speed shaft to match the other)
1. None of the brass, blocking rings can have *LESS* than .020″ of gap.
2. The INNER surface of the blocking ring is gonna GRIP the tapperd surface of
that gear area to MATCH it’s COUNTERSHAFT speed.
3. However, if you have WORN-OFF the ARROW TIPS to a NUB…the SLEEVE is gonna STRUGGLE to slide into their grooves.
The DOGS are part of the GEAR! The FLANK… the SIDE of the DOG needs to be WIDE ENOUGH so the SLEEVE of the synchro has something to GRAB ON IT!
A USED blocker ring. (but dogs are not too bad)
A *NEW* blocker ring. (note the GAP is much wider)
When you *HEAR* GRINDING while changing a gear… the sound is the SLEEVE GRINDING AGAINST THE DOGS!
You *WILL*…wear-down the DOGS! = END OF THAT GEAR! And the
BLOCKING RINGS are gonna HATE YOU TOO!
4th gear in neutral…….
….now placed into 4th gear, while the brass blocking ring ACCELERATES
that gear to match the MAINSHAFT SPEED.
GIVEN… the CLUTCH is 100% *DIS*ENGAGED!
ANOTHER…KNOWN FAULT of ALL year models! That BROWN shit…is what *WAS* the shifter FULCRUM!
“I thought my shifter was SUPPOSE to be loose.” No…..it ain’t!
The *RIGHT* lube……how & WHERE. The FSM calls for 2.4 quarts, 75-W80, GL-4, level vehicle pumped in here.
85-W90 GL-5 is much more common and FINE to use!
WHAT…..ULTIMATELY holds the synchroizer “SLEEVE” up against the “DOGS” of each gear…that are WIDE ENOUGH to grip-on?
Those 3 lil’ spring-loaded “KEYS” inside the “HUBS”. It’s like a ROCKER SWITCH.
But…EXCESSIVE END-PLAY (on the shafts & forks) and *IF* the DOGS have
been GROUND SHORTER, it’ll *KICK* the SLEEVE RIGHT-OFF THE DOGS!
It’s like a 3 position switch…the CENTRAL POSITION would be NUETRAL.
The WIRE SPRINGS…that pre-load the “KEYS”, are NOT all the *SAME*! Ya know the deal…degrease them and *MARK* their positions!
Gear oil on the back of your speedo?
Page 21-28, 88, Vol 1 Starion FSM. details how to install the roll pin.
1. remove the cable & internal cable, too.
2. Clean it
3. re-lube with paste, white lithium, full lenght
(screw it in while squirting the lube to the entrance)
4. Replace o-rings at the generator
A bouncing speedo is:
It stalls the drive cable for a second…then SNAPS-BACK to catch-up.
1. the old lube is dry
2. gear oil is TOO THICK (especially when cold)
MD701788…inner. MF520403…outter MF472536…roll pin